What do these jacked-up leaves mean?

Discussion in 'First Time Marijuana Growers' started by dma251, Aug 11, 2012.

  1. I have been babying this thing for the last 4 months, and now in the 6th week of bloom, it looks terrible up top.

    Its a white widow. Because the burned look of a couple of my lower leafs I looked in my Cannabis Growers bible and it indicated a mg deficiency. Its recommendation was to use 1/4 - 1/3 tbs of epsom salts in 3 gallons of water. I did this a few days ago, and now I wish I'd stuck with the crispy lower leaves! I am just trying to see this little girl through the next 3 weeks...

    Here is a link to the other thread I was using, with some pictures of how it used to look.
    http://forum.grasscity.com/absolute...-plant-doesnt-like-food-why.html#post15294640
     

    Attached Files:

  2. I grew White Widow along side of three other strains and they did exactly what yours are doing as they neared full bud maturity. I think they are a little more temperamental to high PPM levels than the strain I usually grow and their leaf die off is a little more dramatic as well. I see all strains show similar symptoms (to lesser degrees) as they near the end of their lives and route energy to their flowers. The rest of the plant looks good so just get ready to harvest
     
  3. Phosphorus deficiency can cause damage like that. You should post what ferts you're using, how much and how often.
     
  4. Def a nute deficiency. Many can look the same why its hard to figure out alot of times. You can solve that issue but the leaves that were damaged for the most part will remain looking that way.

    Saw your pics on your post...if a plant looks good you dont really need to feed it and if you do then not much. I think thats where your mistakes took place. Then trying to feed it without a PH meter. I used to use Fox Farms use Advanced now but nutrients radically change the PH...usually very very high or low. If your not PH balancing it then every grow will end in fail.

    For nutes you should start off 20-30%. Whatever the bottle or chart says view that as a max amount. If its less who cares. Every plant is different. Right now in my grow there all the same strain same everything one is nute sensitive so I literally make 2 batches of nutes when I water. One for it which is hardly any, one with more for the others.


    Cannabis Plant Problems & Symptoms | Marijuana Nutrient Deficiencies | Grow Weed Easy
     
  5. So if it were you, and you only had the reagent liquid spa ph tester (and some strips), what would you do right now?
     
  6. I don't have any pH measuring tools. I water straight out of the tap and my veggies and flowers are all growing like crazy. Must be lucky. Or, I have refined my organic soil to be fortified in many ways against pests diseases and soil health problems. All this trouble-shooting oriented towards pH discussion is interesting, but I would chalk most these problems to soil food web- health imbalances causing deficiencies, lockout, burn, whatever you want to call it. Fact is we don't see these problems with this frequency in organic systems.

    I would mix 1 gallon vermicompost with 4 gallons dechlorinated water (water sitting out for 48 hours), stir it every 20 minutes for 3 hours, and water the plants with it. Sieve the worms out prior to adding the compost to water if you're feeling extra-friendly. See if adding these humic particles don't fix all your problems there. I would also stop all bottled nutrient feedings until the upper growth looks suffiently healthy. Or more likely stop it altogether.
     

  7. For myself its no big deal. Mix all my nutes in my watering thing with water. Use my 50 dollar PH pen correct then water. Takes all but 2 min.
     
  8. Precisely, It is no big deal- the soil health problems start on a microbian scale- when petro-chemicals come into contact with soil microbes. didn't you know ammonia glass cleaner is %100 natural? as advance nutrient reps like to say, "%200 ORGANIC"!!!!
     
  9. ^ that's the second time today i've seen someone say non-organic or chemical ferts will kill off your microbes

    i grow in hydro

    i use chemical ferts

    i use beneficial bacteria and microbes

    both are doing fine together man, and a lot of other people do the same as me....not sure if you guys mean something else or what?
     
  10. I think for my next plant I will try organic. Thats a whole other bunch of reading and researching to do.

    It was getting dry so I just gave it a very light solution of distilled water and 125 ppm liquid fish, and 25 ppm Atami Bloombastic (0-14-15)

    Just looking to finish the next 2-3 weeks without screwing up the buds...
     

  11. extremely good info, my water sits out only 24 hours in 32 gallon trash cans, but after 24 hours for me I smell no chlorine, we have really nice tap water any ways.. nice post.. I never ph
     
  12. Update:

    I'm now at week 8 of my white widow bloom,and I am still concerned about the leaves, but I raised the light 6" further up and continued feeding 250 ppm of the atami bloomastic. I havent bought a microscope yet, but will this week. I know it'll be ready when she decides to, but I am curious what you all think of the buds?
     

    Attached Files:


  13. Not a organic head here. I could care less if the nutrients are synthetic.
     
  14. [quote name='"obsstar"']^ that's the second time today i've seen someone say non-organic or chemical ferts will kill off your microbes

    i grow in hydro

    i use chemical ferts

    i use beneficial bacteria and microbes

    both are doing fine together man, and a lot of other people do the same as me....not sure if you guys mean something else or what?[/quote]
    What are microbes and whats their purpose in soil?
     
  15. #15 InTheGarden, Sep 24, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 24, 2012
    The microbes in the soil take the organic compounds and break them down into a form of nutrient that the plant can use (chemical nutrients are already in a form that the plant can use, thus bypassing the need for soil microbes). Many also form a symbiotic relationship with the plant. Basically, in an organic soil, the microbes are the ones who do all the work of feeding and looking after the plant for us. This is why you rarely see deficiency problems in a good organic soil where the focus is on feeding the soil microbes-the plant can use exactly what nutrient it needs when it needs it (vs with chemical nutrients where the grower is deciding what the plant gets fed). I'm totally not trying to bash on chemical nutrients. But an inexperienced grower can easily run into problems because it takes experience to get dialed into the needs of your plant and feed accordingly.

    And to the poster who uses chemical nutrients and beneficial bacteria in a hydro system: I'm sure you have great, healthy plants, I'm not doubting that. But you are wasting your money on beneficial bacteria. Just where are those microbes living in your hydro system? If you are using chemical nutrients, the beneficial bacteria don't serve a purpose-there aren't any minerals/nutrients that need to be chelated or material to break down (thus no food for the bacteria). And chemical fertilizers and pH up/down absolutely harm soil microlife. Once again, not trying to bash on chemical nutes, most chem growers know that there is a trade off between beneficial microbes and chemical nutrients. If you mean endomycorrhizal fungi, that live in symbiosis with plant roots and aid in uptake of water and nutrients, maybe. But beneficial bacteria won't survive very long in a hydro system, which is an unfavorable environment for them in the first place, and even more so when you add chemicals to the mix.
     
  16. [quote name='"InTheGarden"']

    The microbes in the soil take the organic compounds and break them down into a form of nutrient that the plant can use (chemical nutrients are already in a form that the plant can use, thus bypassing the need for soil microbes). Many also form a symbiotic relationship with the plant. Basically, in an organic soil, the microbes are the ones who do all the work of feeding and looking after the plant for us. This is why you rarely see deficiency problems in a good organic soil where the focus is on feeding the soil microbes-the plant can use exactly what nutrient it needs when it needs it (vs with chemical nutrients where the grower is deciding what the plant gets fed). I'm totally not trying to bash on chemical nutrients. But an inexperienced grower can easily run into problems because it takes experience to get dialed into the needs of your plant and feed accordingly.

    And to the poster who uses chemical nutrients and beneficial bacteria in a hydro system: I'm sure you have great, healthy plants, I'm not doubting that. But you are wasting your money on beneficial bacteria. Just where are those microbes living in your hydro system? If you are using chemical nutrients, the beneficial bacteria don't serve a purpose-there aren't any minerals/nutrients that need to be chelated or material to break down (thus no food for the bacteria). And chemical fertilizers and pH up/down absolutely harm soil microlife. Once again, not trying to bash on chemical nutes, most chem growers know that there is a trade off between beneficial microbes and chemical nutrients. If you mean endomycorrhizal fungi, that live in symbiosis with plant roots and aid in uptake of water and nutrients, maybe. But beneficial bacteria won't survive very long in a hydro system, which is an unfavorable environment for them in the first place, and even more so when you add chemicals to the mix.[/quote]

    So microbes are pointless to use in hydro whether or not you are using organic nutes?
     

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