My first plant doesn't like food - why?

Typical sativa. They just don't like to eat much. For example, I have a heavy indica strain that can suck up 3 tablespoons of nutes per 2 gallon jug and still be hungry. While my sativa burns if I give her a whole tablespoon. I have to give her a half spoon per feeding, which is a fraction of the recommended amount. You just have to read what your plants tell you and ignore what the bottles say.

 

The plant looks healthy. What part of the plant are these coming from, upper or lower?
pH is right on the money; could this be natural leaf drop from no light below the canopy? And you are paranoid about your baby (that's OK)?
Doing nothing may be your best bet. If the leaves start yellowing, that's a signal to try the nutes again.

 

The rest of the plant looks perfectly normal; no leaf spotting which would be evident if it were insects. I think you'll be fine. Mechanical damage from watering?
Just to be safe, lay off the nutes entirely as long as it's healthy green.

 

Looks more like a PH problem than over nutrition. Those PH strips aren't very accurate, you should invest in a cheap PH pen.

A seedling can handle 200 ppm, so that's not what's causing the issue. I'd definitely say invest in a PH pen and check your feed water. Those strips aren't very accurate.

Your first photo looks like a phosphorus deficiency. Phosphorus is almost available completely from 6.0 PH all the way to 8 PH. Chances are your feeding your plants an acidic solution which is locking out phosphorus. I'll attach a chart so you can see the availability of nutrients and minerals, it'll make sense. The phosphorus drops off and is unavailable under 6.0.

 

it's very possible that the happy frog has enough nutes left in it to carry your plant through to the end. if it's not asking for additional nutes, don't give it any. it def. looks healthy. maybe could be a little darker green. if you're ph'ing your feed/water, then that's covered. i "always" get a leaf here and there, that looks unhappy. i just pluck em. as for feeding, just wait till she asks for more, before you add any more.

 

I doubt it's only a "pH" issue. The only way it would be Ph problem is if the microbean population in your soil was damaged or diminished for some reason. If you added chemical fertilizer to your soil, don't be surprised if it diminishes the Microbe- herd. A healthy soil will not cause any burning because lower fertilizer quantities give higher yields thanks to microbes. Hence, plants do not get burnt, and growth remains optimal. You don't have to take my word for it, but rest assured there are different ways of growing plants, it's up to you what the final result will look like. If you do take my word for it, then set the chem' nutes aside and instead give your plants some vermicompost and alfalfa meal next water. different effect than a bottled nute entirely and that easy.

 

Learn something new every day

I always wondered why my babies didn't take too well to higher doses. Haven't tried an indica dom yet though.

Peace

 

I've had the same issues with Happy Frog before, so I quit using it.

Let your pot dry completely out. 1'' down isn't dry enough. Wait until the soil is dry enough that it pulls away from the sides of your pot. It'd be simple to just not water until you see some droop in the higher leaves, from there you can estimate the best time when to water. If it droops in 5 days, water around 4.

 

any issues you're having are beyond my ability to diagnose....just wanted to say, that is a very pretty plant. you've definitely done your homework.

I'd just trim a lot of that funny looking very lowest growth. It's tough to get much light down there indoors and my experience is the good buds come out stronger with some trimming. many people advise differently though, lots of different advice out there, best is to just experiment and learn

the digital display ph "pens" are the way to go, but those cheap ebay ones often cause more problems than they solve. reason being, they are far more likely to be greatly inaccurate and/or imprecise. The advertised specs are likely erroneous or plainly misleading, and the so-called adjustment trimmer probably induces highly non-linear, unpredictable changes. just my experience from testing similarly priced meters. and making conclusions from bad data lead to... well, both you and the plant will become confused!
I use a Hanna brand pen, but there are plenty of quality meters/other brands. You really want something that calibrates, preferably automatically. Then you also have to buy a couple bottles of calibration fluid, and check up on it periodically. even good ones need to be recal here and there too. IMO you should expect to invest at least 100ish+ to really have confidence in pH data. again, lots of different advice. plenty of gorgeous plants grown without $100 meters... in chemicals. but many factors enter into that... okay rambling ending.

You could grow organically and eliminate the need to monitor soil pH.

 

DMA, I'm willing to bet a big blunt fattie to a doughnut, all you are seeing is a plant's natural tendency to drop its lower leaves when the upper canopy blocks most of the light. Eventually almost all of your lower leaves will do that. The tops of your plants are too healthy for it to be anything else.
Your pH has continued to be in the good range.
If you don't trust your pH strips, buy a bottle of reagent drops - General Hydroponics makes a very good one. It's only precise to a range of about 0.5, but you can get plenty close enough to not get into any lockout conditions. I've used the stuff for entire grows with absolutely no problems, but then again, I know my plants and what they "want". But the reagent drops will keep you out of trouble.
And follow Ohspyro's recommendations for watering less frequently.
And Growbot's idea that your soil may have enough nutes to carry you through a grow.
Use water pH'ed at 6.5 to 6.8, check your runoff, and next time adjust the pH of your water if you need to get the runoff up or down. Soil grows will tolerate a range of 6.3 to 7.0 with no adverse effects; you want to target the middle range of 6.5 to 6.8 to be optimal.

Even the top leaves will begin to curl and yellow as the plant goes further into bloom - I usually see this about 6 weeks into bloom - the big top fan leaves first, followed by the little finger leaves that grow directly out of the bud. By this time I'm checking trichrome color every couple of days and getting my scissors sharpened.

BTW, I ALWAYS trim off the very bottom branches / suckers of my grow once the canopy fills in and blocks the light (same symptoms you are seeing). Those small stunted branches, leaves and teeny immature buds do nothing but rob strength from the rest of the plant, and you end up throwing them away anyway.

You're doing a good job. As long as the tops continue to grow and appear healthy, that's all you want. Pat yourself on the back & don't worry so much.

Bestaluck to ya.

 

I too doubt what you're seeing is nutrient burn. Since only the bottom leaves are turning brown, it's probably because of lack of light, as OS pointed out, and maybe you're also getting some wind burn from the fan(noticed you have your fan on the bottom blowing upwards). What is your humidity like?

 

Nah leave the fan on. Since your humidity is @ 60% I don't think it's wind burn from the fan. Even if it was, it's not a big deal. More than likely lack of light at the bottom of the plant.