Spider Mites

cool I was going to try 2.5ml like the thread you posted mentioned. sn 217 spray is up to 2 percent but who knows what kind of rosemary they use.
I've seen people use 5ml per gal max per eo usually with blends of multiple oils. I know buildasoil said you can push their blend up to 30 ml per gal but you have to rinse with water at lights on.

Okay cool appreciate the help, I was rereading the thread and gimik recommended a few oils at 3ml per gal with a spinosad mix so Ill probably go with 3-5ml with the spinosad and see how it goes. My infestation is pretty light right now I just see one or 2 mites each day not like it was when I first noticed it they were everywhere.

Though sn217 is supposedly 2 percent oil I doubt it though. that would be close to the study's 50 percent kill rate and would be like 80ml a gal crazy high compared to what most people I see use 3ml-10ml.

This afternoon I read another paper on rosemary oil and sage ovicidal effects not very impressive numbers to say the least. well see how it goes.
http://dergiler.ankara.edu.tr/dergiler/15/2090/21613.pdf

oh in the other study they didnt spray the plants just leaf samples but I imagine it would be alright as long as you rinse it off before lights on.

 

There are so many routes to go with the EO applications. I've used from .5-3ml per gallon. I use .5ml as part of my IPM. Like these guys have said every 3 days religiously. Usually in 3 weeks you'll have them knock down. Then switch to 2 times a week and monitor.

MoFo's has his tinctures like Lavender Rosemary Orange. Clove oil, garlic oil, cottonseed oil are used in a commercial product called Pest Out and GC Mite. Eco-trol IC is rosemary oil, peppermint oil, geraniol. With these mixtures your getting a double punch as a fungicide. I'm not advocating these products, just using them as an illustration.

 

@frankslan I had a run in with broad mites a few months ago. I used a combination of sprays, heat treating, and predator mites to control them. My current methods are grandevo and predator mites. I order mites on the 2nd Wednesday every month and they are delivered the following Thursday. Do a heat treat and spray the week predators arrive to knock everything down, then release the predators and let them do their thing for a few weeks. My garden is small so this is feasible. I spend about $45 a month which is well worth it to me.

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we all had them all on the toilet seat last year I tell you what took months to get rid of those buggers....

all joking aside best way to get rid of them is by not letting them in this means caulking all the seams (wall seams floor etc)placing hepa filters on intakes. sticky fly paper tape around the pot sand for top layer add some d earth on top with the sand spray around outside of your home with a pesticide 12 month barrier or something use pesticide on your lawn basic ant killer stuff will work .spray any cracks on the outside of the house than when dried caulk the cracks (spray than wait 24 hours to caulk) if you have a basement need to caulk there too. spray and caulk.

 

Think my mites are tyrophagus putrescentiae a mold mite two people had them they said they go away when you stop watering so much and cause no harm. Idk looks like i can see pieces if leaf in the belly. Fuck em sprayed them today with the rosemary.

 

No sir. I don't think so. I think they're just under control. If I were to stop spraying the grandevo and releasing predators monthly, they'd be back

Solo

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Heyo

I've read the first half of this thread and used the search function to no avail, sorry if this has already been asked:

How effective would it be to soak lemon balm and nettles together for 24 hours as a foilar spray to deal with the mites?

I'm considering doing a light spray every day, alternating between neem and lemon balm/nettle (with fresh aloe thrown in twice a week). All I can seem to find on this is either in reference to the oils, or requires a blender (which I unfortunately do not own).

My reasoning for this is that neem on it's own will not completely break their life cycle, and I've got enough nettle and lemon balm in my garden to sustain at least a month of constant harvesting.

 

I haven't read the whole thread but nice info on what I read ! I find a combination of predator mites and neem and green clean work well ! Going through it !!


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hey guys wanted to update you on my situation. I made it to harvest. I noticed them coming out of my soil I would see them on my containers and walls. Every night and morning I would blast the walls with a 50/50 water/alcohol soap mix. I also applied tangle foot to my stem to keep them from crawling onto the plant.

I made it but my harvest was really low. I think my first neem spray was what really hurt the buds though. After that first spray the pistils turned brown and not many new ones formed. My friend I gave the same strain to had pistils form up the whole stem my just fizzed out at 3 weeks after the first spray.

I think the spinosad next time would be best. The pyrethrins had a really strong smell to it so I didn't like using it. Hell I could have even used water I think with my setup. I had the soil completely covered with plastic and the stems covered in the tangle foot also the plastic was covered in tangle foot. So if I knocked them off they were not getting back onto the plant. Thanks for the help everyone that was a bitch but at least I know what to fight them with next time.

Making a new soil as I fear they are still in my soil. Also will be getting some predatory mites. The current plants waiting to be put into flower have been given a neem and spinosad plus eo oils treatment weekly. I'll probably hit them every 3 days and till week 1 into flower just to be safe. ill hit them with pyrethrin too

 

Hey OS !!

 

Interesting. Very similar to my plan going forward for potential russet reinfestation. Actually just recieved grandevo, met52 and some predators earlier this week. Glad to hear that its working out for you. I destroyed all of the plants I had at the time, cleaned, did everything I could to treat my soil and kept the room clear for about two weeks. Still I hear that these mites are like the plague and it seems to make sense to fight microscopic pests with microscopic controls such as other bugs, fungus, bacteria etc.

1. I intend to do basically the same cycle of spraydowns just before getting new predators like you do. Was thinking of adding met52 and possibly a 3rd type of spray in addition to the grandevo. I thought that the grandevo was supposed to be almost fully compatible with the beneficials though? Was hoping to use it during weeks while the predators are fresh and then rotate in met52 and some 3rd spray (suggestions?) at the end of their cycle right before recieving new ones.

2. Im assuming most of that 45$ bill is shipping unless theres a place for you to buy locally?

3. What species of predators are you using? Im looking at mainly andersoni to do the heavy lifting and fallacis as they survive well on low pest densities. However, as single slow release packs range about 70-90 cents I think Ill sometimes throw in some extras like swiirski and cucumeris. I also am using nematodes and hypoaspis in my soil beds.

4. How long have you had broads? Did you clean your space fully? Do you recycle or no till your soil? Are you just assuming theyll come back if you stopped treatment or do you actually still find live ones/see damage?

 

Oh this is an old thread but great thread Jerry!

 

@Moonnugs

The thing with broad mites is, besides being microscopic they actually penetrate the leaf and attack it from inside. Surface sprays are pretty much useless as are predators unless they can also get into the leaf.

I was using Forbid 4F and while not a true systemic it will penetrate the leaf surface, making the entire leaf toxic. You also don't have to worry much about hitting the bottom of the leaf. It's usually a one and done treatment, even with spider mites. I've never needed to repeat a treatment (on oranamentals). Pretty much 100% eradication. Till the broad mites showed up.

Ended up doing Forbid, Avid, Forbid, each ~2 weeks apart just to get some clean growth to clone. This was for a strain I've had for close to 8 years. Got some clones rooted (had burned the mother plants), and thought I was in the clear. I wasn't. When the clones started showing damage they got burnt also.

Thankfully for several years I had been backcrossing this strain and had gotten to F5 before the broadmites showed up. There was a F6 cross going on when the attack happened, but those seeds only produced deformed plants. Popped a few of the F5 seeds and the plants were perfect. That's what I'll work with next spring.

Anyway, that's my experience with broad mites. If three total treatments of Forbid and Avid don't kill them I don't know what will. I've never seen anything work as well as the Forbid for mites.

@Jerry, I most certainly wouldn't ingest or smoke or anything something that has been sprayed with that shit. I was really trying to save that strain, but it was pretty much a lost cause and I wasn't going to keep spraying to beat a dead horse.

 

I hear you Jerry but in defense of such....These sprays are ingested if you eat at restaurants or buy produce that isn't organic certified at grocery stores, and even smoked(if you use tobacco or just weed in the last 30 to 40 years). With that said, I am not seeing the bodies. Is this stuff benign? Of course not. What is anymore? This is coming from a guy who is starting my 1st organic grow soon so I do appreciate what organic can bring to the table and does recognize the recent demonization of nutes/pesticides that are deemed unhealthy b/c they are not certified organic.