Molasses, pH, and water...

Discussion in 'Growing Organic Marijuana' started by elroyyboy, Feb 14, 2014.

  1. #1 elroyyboy, Feb 14, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 14, 2014
    High Blades,  I was told I'd get better response to this post here in Organics.  I posted this afternoon in absolute beginners.  Thanks for your time and input. 
         I'm doing ok, been fighting a N deficiency and am about 42 days of flower (52 days from 12/12 flip).  My trichomes are still pretty clear but getting about 40% brown hairs. 
         I'm going to start to flush next week, and I've intend to use, and have been using with watering (not feeding) about 1 tsp of unsulphured molassess (I know the molasses crowd is about 50/50 divided) per gallon of RO Water. 
       I'm growing in FFOF with 1/3 perlite, some dolomitic lime, diatomaceous earth, and some bat guano.  I'm using General Organics GO Box line and, other than an N deficiency in the past 2 weeks, have been happy with the results.  336 actual watts of CFL (8x42watts). 
        My question is this:  I've found that molasses does bring down the pH of my RO Water (usuallyl 6.9-7.1 pH out of the bottle before adding anything).  Should I pH adjust the molasses solution or just pour it in. 
    GC is awesome, appreciate the knowledge base and positive feedback. 
       Here's a link to my grow. 

  2. @elroyyboy my boy, congratulations. If you grew the plant you shared in your journal using a 200w cfl, well, I'm just impressed with your efforts. Your results scream loudly. I didn't read completely through each page but here's a couple of things you might want to consider.
    It is absolutely pointless from a growing perspective to test the leachate of a soiless medium grow. One can test that variable until their head explodes trying to correct the drift. Simple fact is with soiless medium grows the leachate is going to drift consistently day in day out, perhaps even hour by hour. Without getting into all the details it is just a simple matter of plant/soil/water/chemical interactions. Time is probably better spent with other tasks that will promote healthy growth.
    To answer your question, just pour it in and leave the pH adjuster out of the equation.
    Nice job LOL, nice job indeed. :bongin:  :bongin:  :bongin:  .... 200 watts of cfl..... :metal:  :smoking:
  3. First, I am wondering what the reason is that you are adding molasses every watering? I'm just curious.

    As far as the pH of your waterings go, it is not necessary to adjust the pH of an organic nutrient solution; especially in an organic soil, unless it was just ridiculously out of whack. At close to 7, as far as I'm concerned you're right where you should be anyhow.

    If your garden seems to be happy, and from what you're saying it appears to be then I'd just continue doing whatever you're doing - if it isn't broken, right?

    Now for the plug - wouldn't it be really kewl to ditch those bottles altogether? If you plan on continuing to garden for any amount of time, if this is a hobby that you think you'd like to continue doing then if I were you I'd think about taking your garden to the next level, and this means instead of buying overpriced commercial soil and bottles of supplements, to mix up your own soil.

    It's so easy - ask around here; most of us garden in our own soil mixes here in the Organics forum. It's much more effective, sustainable and satisfying, IMO.

    Good luck Elroy - and welcome to the Organics forum.

  4. I'm actually using 336 actual watts, 8x42watt and thanks for the comments. I'm actually using soil, FFOF w 1/3 perlite, bat poop 10-4-1, and dolomitic lime. I'm trying to wrap my head around living soil and am reading "Teaming with microbes."

    I read, I research, and proceed cautiously. Thanks to GC and blades like you I'm having some success. As soon as I'm done with this one I'm buying an HPS. :).

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. #5 elroyyboy, Feb 15, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 15, 2014
    Thanks for taking the time to take a look.
    I'm adding molasses because about 1/2 the non chemical growers use it. Not a good idea?
    My goal is my own super soil and totally organic in the future. Your help and advice is getting me there. Watch my grow. I am 2-3 weeks from harvest. :).

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. "I'm adding molasses because about 1/2 the non chemical growers use it. Not a good idea?"

    I really don't have an opinion on the use of molasses in an organic garden one way or another these days Elroy. It certainly doesn't seem to hurt anything but I've never seen it do much good either. I don't use it myself but you should definetley form your own opinion on any additive through your own trial and error.

  7. Thanks for the reply. I hope it's helping the micro organisms in the soil. I'm fascinated with Organics. I remember reading a post 2 months ago where a guy growing outside chops his plant,pulls out the root ball, and put the next plant in the same hole. Amazing. Soil is pretty cool if we LITFA. :)

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. You already know about LITFA?  You're gonna go far.
  9. #9 KouchLoch, Feb 15, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 15, 2014
    I've been torn on this subject for a while now and I continued on my research after I saw a couple of others asking about molasses as a nutrient.  The best writeup I've seen is this one: (link won't post, but it's on the second page of the forum post). It was uncovered from a thread also started here on GC:
    Sometimes, when you're looking for an answer, the common one isn't always the "right" one. Even so, the "right" one may not be right for you.  Read, research, learn and ultimately, make up your own damn mind what you're going to do. The plant will grow on it's own if you just treat it right.
  10. BTW, I have no clue what happened to my post in your same name thread over in Absolute Beginners, but I'm glad I pointed you here instead.  You got a MUCH better answer than "adjust your pH properly" answer that all the bottle rockets give you...
  11. Bottle Rockets. Tee hee.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. OK, so I'm going to let it go to 9 weeks before chop.  I'll feed one more week (two waters, one feed) and then start to flush.  Do I flush like I would to fix a pH or nute burn problem (3xvolume of pot, in my case would be 3x3gal pot=9gal water to flush), or do I just use straight water (RO in my case) for the rest of the plant's life? 
    Thanks blades! 
  13. or do I just use straight water (RO in my case) for the rest of the plant's life?
    You got it. I will advise you do not follow the herd and unnecessarily drown your plants...
    IF you were growing using chemical hydroponic nutrients then you might want to remove fertilizer salts buildup in the medium but you aren't. You're using soil and organic fertilizers - 2 completely different animals altogether. There is absolutely no reason to try and kill your plants by overwatering; there is nothing to gain and more to lose by following this completely idiotic practice.
    Ask around the organics forum and see how many folks here "flush"...
  14. I'm pretty sure there's no need to flush a true organic grow unless you're trying to clear out salt deposits.  I'm sure some of the more experienced organic guys will chime in here...
  15. Flushing any soil garden is on par with checking the pH of your runoff and making decisions based on the results...

  16. Are you trying to say that pH isn't really a big thing for us? I have been pretty concerned with getting it correct. Also would love if you could check these EWC out jerry. Here's the results of their bio mass test. should i go with these?
  17. Checking and constantly adjusting PH is a VERY big thing in a hydroponic garden but is not necessary in an organic soil garden - we rely on calcium and humus in the soil to buffer and balance it for us. Checking the pH of your runoff, however, will give you the pH of just that - the runoff, which does not necessarily translate to the pH of your actual soil.

    Too many folks combine the rules for soil and hydroponic gardening when the same rules don't always apply to each other by any means.

    I've not used the Texas Worm Ranch castings before but don't see any reason why they wouldn't be perfectly acceptable for use in your garden.

  18. Thank you for clarifying further! I was able to figure this out last night on.
    Though your explanation is quite simpler. ;) What the main source of Calcium?
  19. Sources of calcium might include anything from Calcite (Agricultural) Lime, Oyster Shell Flour, Crab or Shrimp Meal down to the slime covering your worm castings - this all depends on your own specific soil mix.


Share This Page