Deficiency on my plant - 10 Gal No Til

Looks like your plant has a few issues going on.

Question: is this plant from seed or clone?
The spotting on the leaves is pest related, possibly spider mites. Have you checked the undersides of the leaves for pests/eggs?






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What kind of soil are you working with, and for how long has the plant been in there, trying to figure out if were dealing with a deficiency or an excess. And i agree with PilBoy your dealing with some sort of pest most likely spider-mites.

 

Those pinhole marks are telltale sign of spider mites, check the under side of the leaves with a scope.
Start treatment immediately if confirmed. Check this thread for info on how to do that:
Spider Mites

Aside from that I think your plant looks root bound an in need of a transplant into bigger container, which should solve your deficiency issues.

 

They indeed look like mites ... I think people usually use Neem oil to get rid of it ... you should be able to pick up neem oil at your local hardware store or garden store ... do not use neem oil after you start flowering this should be done before flower

 

While its true neem oil is usually the prefered method of battling SM, not all neem oil is created equally. Make sure you get cold pressed 100% virgin neem, preferably made in India. I doubt you will find this in the hardware store.
Neemresource.com carry very high quality neem oil.

Also, you can use a low dose of neem during flower, please read the thread in the link I posted above for info on that.

 

I did not know this .. thanks man

 

you are now locked in a battle with the mites ... literally ... also, google how to get rid of spider mites ... and youtube it ... many people have many good ideas ... but neem oil is what I've heard is probably the best way.

 

The most important thing to remember when treating for SM is that you want to break their life cycle by spraying at least every 2-3 days for the first 2 weeks. If you just spray once you will kill the adults but the eggs will hatch a few days later and the cycle will continue.

By religeosly spraying every 2-3 days you are insuring no young mites can reach adulthood and lay new eggs.
Also make sure you treat ALL your plants, not just the infected one as they could just migrate to a different plant.
If you cant find neem oil you could also make a tea using neem meal, I think there is info on that on the thread I posted above.

You should also look for spike lavender essential oil and add it to your neem application at the rate of 2ml/gallon. Spike lavender kills the mite eggs.

 

I think some people even use water and like methylated spirits or rubbing alcohol and spray it on the plants ...

Pure alcohol (70%+) or organic ethanol mixed 50/50 with water ... Spray your plants just after your lights have gone off get underneath the leaves especially to kill the eggs but make sure u cover as much plant area surface as possible ..... It works quite well apparently .. some people add a drop or 2 of dish soap in too

 

This is why we spray our plants with neem once a week, EVERY week as part of our integrated pest management (IPM) routine. It's always a matter of when not if, and btw spider mites dont care if you grow organically or hydroponically, both methods are just as susceptible to getting infested.

 

yep, i use coco coir and H3ad formula 6/9 nutes for my first grow ... plants are blowing the fk up at 19 days old

 

@Powned

Ok they are from SEED so the critters got in some other way...

BTW, there are also spider mite predators you can buy if you choose to use those instead of spraying.
Phytoseiulus persimilis (Mite Predators) | Planet Natural

If you are choosing not to up pot with more soil, you will run into more trouble in flower.
You WILL need to feed more intensely to prevent deficiencies from showing, but that in turn can cause other problems.
Get some fish hydrolysate, it's chelated so it is ready for the plant to use and won't load that small body of soil too much.


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I guess that depends on how long you plan to veg. I will say that the no till method works much better in a larger body of soil. Much of these deficiencies can be related to watering practices (usually overwatering), the physical properties of your soil mix (ex. doesn't drain well), and the absence of a liming agent. From what I see you have a mobile nutrient deficiency.

I'm unsure what you're soil mix is exactly. We can help more if you post your recipe.

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@PoiBoy79 I am wondering this as well as I am growing no-till in 10 gallon smart pots and sometimes wonder if some of the "issues" I am dealing with are not having enough soil for them to expand in. I was thinking of going up to 15 gallons but am still unsure as of yet.

 

Ancient - if you have the room ALWAYS go bigger with soil. Since we use lots of insoluble nutrition for our plants to feed the soil, we have to wait for cycling, and a bigger population of life in our soil will provide much more for the plant. In a bottle grown plant, much of the nutrition is readily available so you depend less on your medium. Your grow will simply go smoother. Many of the indoor no-tillers have pots 2x bigger than my (45g) outdoor pots, and they are the ones with the least issues, especially with regard to deficiencies.


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