I have a veg and flower tent in my room. I've sealed off the ac vent and am using a dual hose ac unit connected to the window. Therefore, The only air going in and out of the room is the room door when I come in and out. So, I'd considered that a 90% sealed room? My fan filter is not in the tents, it is sitting outside of the tents. Both tents have ducting connected the the fan filter near the top of tent sucking hot air out. There is a opened panel with mesh on the bottom of tents for air intake. I am adding a co2 tank/regulator set up inside the room. Does it matter where I place the tank since all the air in the room is being recirculated over and over again? Or should I find a tube and split it into 2 tubes somehow and run those tubes into the tents around the plants? If I don't need do this and can let the tank sit in the room somewhere in the corner... do I even need a tube?
CO2 is heavier than air, so it will settle at the bottom of your grow space. Most of us release it evenly from the perimeter of the ceiling. The controller is key here. Make sure you get a quality unit to maintain your PPM. Timers and cheap substitutes are 100% worthless and will do more harm to your total costs than doing it right from the beginning.
Thanks. It will be sitting outside of my tents in the room. The intake for the tents are at the bottom and the exhausts are at the top. So, since co2 will be at the bottom of the grow room, the tents will suck it in perfectly. Do I need to attach a tube to the co2 tank or just let the nozzle free? I will get a ppm controller.
You are wasting your time or maybe I am missing something...You cannot say you have a 90% sealed room and then have exhaust running and intakes. CO2 is worthless in that situation ...and IMHO the ambient levels are usually just fine.
The room that the tents are sitting in are sealed. The only time air leaves that room is when I open the door to come in and out. So basically, the air that goes in and out of the tent is being recirculated within the room.
Lol. I think I now understand, but then it will be interesting to know the ppm of both in the tents and outside them. I think in a short while they will be almost the same. How big is the room...what % of the area is taken up by the tents? Depending on room size, it seems you will be wasting alot of C02 to achieve the the ppm you want inside the tent.
The room is 10x13 ft. I actually have a 3 tent rotation. 1 veg 2 flower tents. The veg tent is 4x4 and the flower tents are 5x5. Maybe I'll see if I can find a 3 way tube I can run from the tank into each tent. Do they make 3 way tubes to fit co2 tanks? Is there anybody who does this?
I jumped into C02 with not much knowledge, well my tank was running to way too much, because I was using a single hose a/c, needless to say, my regulator froze from running too much, my tent spiked to 5000 ppm at night. I decided to wait on the C02 as im 2 weeks into flower and don't want to lose a whole crop. you can grab a 1 to 3 hose connector, run a separate hoses to each tent. my room is 99% sealed, besides the a/c. Went throught a 20lb tank in 5 days :| Im back to the drawing board on this lol
Dude in my opinion you're going to go through gas like it's going out of style. That dual hose A/C unit is not 100% sealed off inside... In my opinion water cooling is best for tents or small areas using HID. You can cool a 1000w hid using one 8" Icebox Let's Build a Hydro Innovations Icebox Matter fact, I run 600w lamps and each 8" Icebox will cool two lamps (1,200W / 4,092 BTU). A drain to waste water cooling system costs much less (average water cost $0.004 per gallon) to cool the chamber over an electric cooling system (A/C). I've put a drain to waste 8" DIY Icebox in a 4x4 tent with a 1000w hid and sealed the tent for Co2. The tent easily maintained 82* to 84*F and cost them much less to run a drain to waste.. Anyway I would personally supply the whole room with Co2 and cycle the air through the tents. Also I assume you know about the Co2 Flow Calculator to help you calculate how much to dispense. Peace
The CO2 controller will cycle your CO2 on and off as the room needs it. You don't split off from the tank, you split off after the solenoid valve. Beyond the solenoid it is all small tube. Finding connections of all types is real easy.
You don't run co2 at night. You'll suffocate your plants that way. Mmj needs o2 when lights are off. Only after the lights have been on for a bit have the stomata opened up and are able to uptake co2. And honestly if you're not going to run an environmental controller that can measure and maintain ppm levels accurately inside a tent or sealed room it's not worth fooling with. Also co2 is really more useful during the veg phase imo. Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
I have a CO2r controller from grozone. Regulator, and tank. The system was running to much, because of the single hose a/c, draining the c02 from room. This causing my system to run to often, causing the regulator to freeze and stay opened. Inturn spiking my c02 levels. I only run my c02 with lights on. Ive since figured it out, I removed the a/c machine from room, placed outside the room, with a cooling hose ran into the tent, now its completely sealed I haven't had a problem. my tank should last 38-45 days now.
Sounds like you've got it dialed in now. I'm just now trying out the controllers for the first time and I'm really liking it. I'm using the sentinel 4i with 5' tank and reg. I'm anxious to see how long the tank will last when using it for my veg and flower tents. What kind of ac unit are you using? I've got a 5000btu window unit that's practically bran new laying around that I'm planning to use but I've seen where it can be tricky to do when there is no window access to mount it into. Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
Im using a Danby 6000Btu, portable style, with exhaust hose. it was 239$ at walmart. I know you can make those work, with a little bit of fab and such.
I hate to say, but the AC is your problem. Those units single or dual hose, both use air from the room to cool the coils. So they take air from your room and blow it out the back. So every time your AC kicks on your CO2 leaves the room. I would seriously try to invest in a mini split air conditioner then you will be sealed in your CO2 will stay Sent from my SM-G930V using Grasscity Forum mobile app
Pumping air into the room will create a positive pressure, forcing stinky air out any hole anywhere. Best to keep the rooms under a small negative pressure with a fan to a filter. If air is always fighting to get IN, it can't get OUT Sent from my SM-G930V using Grasscity Forum mobile app