you guys aren't getting what i said

look, i have 2 friends that have owned very famous coffee shops in amsterdam for years. they have had the same strains going for 25 + years easy. EASY. the reason all of the strains here in america are what they are is because of a handful of strians that have been around for well over 30 years in amsterdam guys. get it straight. if you don't believe me, go buy the last 40 years of high times magazines and put your dues in. and why would i get rid of a strain that's unbelieveable? i still have many others. many others. i was probably one of the first people in this country to have the real kali mist and nl haze 9. i had yumboldt and bubbleberry the first year they were entered in the cup from the makers...before they were sold for seeds even. what i'm saying is this...look, i just want through the forum again, and read a bunch of your posts and threads. they're not advanced techniques at all. i'm not learning that much to tell you the truth. they are questions of those still learning basics and intermediates. and this they are not bad questions at all, just not really advanced. it is not about what you sell your shit for. my girlfriend can sell 60 dollar 1/8ths of stuff that i wouldn't smoke. so what. who can't? NOT ONE SINGLE THREAD MENTIONS ANHTING ABOUT PROTEIN SYNTHESIS??? and this ladies and gentlemen is what it's all about. protein synthesis. i never hear anyone mention anything about microclimate's and variance from location within the growroom itself. never hear anyone talking about cation exchange rates. never hear anyone talking about gas chromatography. it's all silly shit. do you think anyone from amsterdam who's entering their product in the cannabis cup is going to turn to this forum for advice? you can grow what you want and sell it for what you want. big deal. people sell shwag by the hundreds of ponds for good money all day long. i'm not impressed.

and to be clear...dirt is from the earth. it takes about 500 years to make approx 1"
something you buy in a bag with peat in it is not dirt. it's just brown/black and is often called dirt. what i was trying to say is that coco is far superior for many reasons, and if you understood the relationship of production and recycling of organic matter you would never use peat moss products. they are harvested by heavy diesel run machinery and pollute the environment horribly. coco is a beautiful by product. the ones that don't get picked become part of the earth for new plants to grow in it. the ones that do get used for food and milk, and we grow in the leftover. you can grow in so many things. but being an advanced grower means you're responsible for just more than growing expensive weed. like i said, if you couldn't enter your product in the cannabis cup then it doesn't belong in the advanced section.

for example, an advanced growing technique could be something like this...let's talk about momentum for a minute. if you take 2 plants identical to eachother and put one in a very small pot and one in a 5 gallon bucket, you will see the smaller one get bigger faster and be able to harness this momentum. then you trans it after it gets rootbound and stops growing. in the same 2 weeks, the 5 gallon one will be growing roots mostly and not be as big. in time it will and it will surpass the other, but to make use of your electricity and lighting the most efficiently employ the technique of momentum in the root structure.

or...we could talk with eachother about controlling stretching. light is what dictates what the plants will do. on a cellular level, we have cell to cell signaling. you should never give your plants 24 on. i know, of course you can. however, advanced growers know that growing is really all about being a mom. when your baby needs rest, give it. many things happen at night that are never discussed on this forum. ever. it is common practice among cup growers to give a minimum of 4 hours dark. and then it is slowly decreased until 12/12 is reached...and ending at 10/14 usually. and when you're at the 15 on or 14 on mark, keep an eye on the temperature differential. temperature differential is huge when it comes to cell to cell signaling. i have seen many experts increase yields by the use of digital timers that run 15 on and 12 off. this is not an easy technique at all, and the times change daily so you have to be able to adjust to that. 12/12 is just a convenient thing for us, but stress is another huge topic never ever discussed. stress is good...very good. a stress free person in essense is someone who probably gets to sit home all day...sit on the couch and eat whatever they want. never have to go to work. no social issues or mental issues whatsoever. well that person would get fat and probably die of other things in time. but someone who exercises and stresses a bit is in far better shape? it depends on the nature of the stress, but again, something that's neve discussed here in this forum. i just saw a thread in this forum that said when do you ph? before or after nutes? come on.

and EC is so much more important than anyone talks about. NPK numbers mean nothing. they are only ratio's and that's it. that's it. trust me, i work for a fertilizer manufacturer. you need an ec meter to measure strength. and no one here talks about EC rates and it's effects. all i was trying to do was get the advanced forum to be advanced. at this point i am truly thinking of starting a forum for advanced techniques only.

and how come no one talks about THC degredation. above 85 degrees it can break down slowly and you can lose 50 percent potency. if you read the marijuana growers guide years ago you would know this. pot likes to be grown in arid environments. i can make my plants appear more resinous by keeping humidity below 30% during flower. i have done this more than once, many times actually. it is common knowledge among growers in europe to lower humidity to dangerous levels to make your resin stalks stand taller. however, you have to be careful because sodium lights are harsh and humidity is like sun tan lotion for your plants. and always use halides in between your sodiums. the difference will be apparent. you can use straight sodiums and do great. they will just be better. diet is everything to plants and animals. diet for plants also means spectrum however, so don't forget that. there are alot of cellular processes that are dependant strictly on the spectrum available in halides. most cup entries use a 1:1 ratio or 2:1 sodium ratio. i can't tell you how many dispensaries ive been to ( atleast 20 so far) and bought their BEST product, and it was only mediocre. California has a long way to grow before they catch up to Amstedam. long way. but that's cool. the dutch aren't really into sharing secrets.

did you know that you can have a major influence on the sex of a seed by the way you handle it? there is research being conducted right now on this phenomen. what is being discussed is that sex is not predetermined. cell to cell signaling and the causes determine what the seed should be. it's an evolutionary mechanism that we're still trying to conceive.

i hope i didn't offend everyone. apparently i did. i just thought that advanced techniques was a place for people to share really neat and cool ideas and tricks that help harvest easier, faster, or better buds than common practice. my bad.