What is this bug and how do I get rid of it?

Fungus gnats.

To get rid of them you have to deal with both the adult bugs and the larvae.

To get the larvae, put slices of raw potato on top of your soil, the larvae will be drawn to it, then after about 5 days just throw away the potato slices. You can also kill the eggs before they hatch by covering the soil with a layer of sand. For the adults try neem oil, safer soap, or a tobacco juice recipe.

 

Like T-biz said those are fungus gnats. Try to up the air flow in your grow room, that will lower the humidity and make life harder for those gnats. Also over watering, or overall moist conditions, can cause those gnats to take hold in your room. I've found that neem and safer soap work good for mild gnat infestations but for heavier infestations you can try gnatrol(if you can find it). Also you can try benificial predatory mites, I can't remember the name of them but they usually cost about 30 bucks a bottle. But those are usually a specialty item so it might be hard to find. Just a few thoughts.

 

You're welcome, good luck hunting. Listen up to Cali too, he knows his stuff.

 

This table was used in a paper on fungus gnats:
http://insects.tamu.edu/extension/bulletins/uc/uc-028.html


An inventory of considerations and options which can be incorporated into a fungus gnat management program (from Cole 1985, Drees 1992 and Lindquist 1994).
<center><table border="1" width="70%"> <tbody><tr><td colspan="2">Non-chemical (cultural) methods:</td> </tr> <tr><td>
</td><td> Potting media containing compost less than 6 months old may be more attractive to fungus gnats than that containing "older" compost. However, some of the less attractive potting mixes may result in increased plant injury because larvae may feed on plant roots rather than on fungi in the media.
Avoid over-watering. Over watering contributes to fungal and fungus gnat larval development. Conversely, too little watering may aggravate fungus gnat larval injury to plants, because larvae may enter the plant stems in search of moisture.
Avoid introducing infestations into a treated planting by bringing in infested plants.
Avoid providing habitats for fungus gnat development underneath benches, etc. If possible, separate plant propagation areas from the main plant production areas (by using separate houses or screening between these areas), since propagation areas generally have more severe fungus gnat problems.
Practice good sanitation: remove debris and old plant material from in and around greenhouses.
</td> </tr> <tr><td colspan="2">Potting media treatments (for larvae):</td> </tr> <tr><td>.......</td> <td> Biological control:
- Parasitic nematodes (Exhibit®, BioSys®, Guardian nematodes, Scanmask, Ecomask, etc.*,**) and others (S. feltiae, Heterorhabditis spp.)
- Predatory mites (Hypoaspis spp.)(1 to 50 per container)
Microbial insecticides:
- Bacillus thuringiensis var. israelensis (Gnatrol®*,**)
Insect growth regulators:
- azadirachtin (Azatin® EC*,**)
- fenoxycarb (Precision®*)
- kinoprene (Enstar®*,**)
Nerve-active insecticides
- chlorpyrifos (DuraGuard*,**)(surface spray)
- diazinon (PT® 265 KnoxOut® 2FM*,**)(surface spray)
- oxamyl (Oxamyl 10G*,**) </td></tr> <tr><td colspan="2">Foliar treatments (for adults):</td> </tr> <tr><td>
</td> <td> chlorpyrifos (PT® 1325 ME Duraguard*,**)
cyfluthrin (Decathlon®)
diazonon (PT-265® KnoxOut® 2FM*,**)
horticultural oil (SunSpray®*)
oxamyl (Vydate®*) - no longer being produced for ornamental market
pyrethrins (Pyrenone® Crop Spray)
resmethrin (Resmethrin EC*,**)
</td></tr> <tr><td colspan="2">Fogs and fumigants (for adults):</td> </tr> <tr><td>
</td> <td> diazinon (PT-1500R® KnoxOut®*,**)
nicotine (Nicotine Smoke Generator*)
resmethrin (Resmethrin EC 26*,**)
</td></tr> </tbody></table></center> *approved for greenhouse use; ** approved for interiorscape use
<hr>

 

goddamnit, i just say these little fuckers the other day in my pots.

how effective is that potato method? like if i kill the larve will i naturally end the life cycle of them in there?