Can I top dress with brown sugar and then water in or is it better to let the sugars sit in the water to dissolve? Just curious. Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
Yes I know that but my question is, can I top dress the soil with brown sugar? Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
I suppose you could but brown sugar is just refined sugar with molasses added back. The sugars are already present in the molasses and readily usable for the microlife in the soil. But if you want to try it out and see then go for it and then show off some before and after pics. Best of luck
I don't see why not. Kinda the same except at a slower feed rate since u won't be breaking it down completely but then again that all depends on how you water. I would chug the sugar in whatever you're watering so that it can break down properly. Wouldn't top dressing sugar attract ants?? They bring all sorts of pests to your cite.
Brown sugar will breed fly larvae. Some other guy tried it with disastrous results. I use Molasses @ 2 tsp a gallon in my nute mix.
Thanks everyone. Good point Skullbasher. Really didn't think about the ants. I already have them now and don't need to add more lol. Thanks again Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
I'm using the earth juice seablast line, with oily cann, catalyst, hi-brix, bloom master and Dark Energy. I've bumped the molasses up to 1 TBSP per gallon now that my plants are in full flower. These are large plants in 100gallon pots outside in the sun. 1800-1900ppm @ 5.5ph Each plant gets 5 gallons of this 3 times a week.
Thanks for the advice however my plants are giant healthy monsters. My soil is very bio active. I'm not going to change what is working. All of the research I've done says that 5.5 is fine. I've also read that if you let the EJ line brew in a tea overnight the PH rises naturally. When first mixed it's coming in at 4.2, that will burn badly. I've seen no ill affects feeding at 1800ppm @ 5.5
The difference between a giant healthy monster producing quality buds, and giant healthy monsters producing cup quality bud can be very small techniques. Phing organics seems to be one of them IMO. I ph my foliars, fertigation, and incoming plain water. With a lower ph, you have the advantage of using a wider range of calcium products. So you would have that advantage. Do you know the ph of your soil?