This is popular with aquarium people. Apparently all you have to do is re-wire a 2-tube standard T8 shop light with a 4-tube T8 electronic ballast (or stick another 2-tube ballast into a 2-tube fixture) and the result is amplified light output at the same color temp, at the cost of shorter tube life and a little extra heat. Basically, two 2-tube ballasts run one tube each or a 4-tube ballast runs 2 tubes instead of 4. They actually use less amperage to run brighter lights, from what I read. I'm getting a Kill-A-Watt soon to test with. I bought a new T8 fixture($11, Wal-Mart), 2700lm @ 6500k tubes($8, Lowes) and a new 4-tube ballast($17, Home Depot) today. I have a light meter. Will report back on before and after numbers tomorrow. If this works I can pump over 10k lumens @ 6500k out of 2 48" tubes at a lower current draw than 2 standard tubes in a single fixture for a grand total of $36 invested.
Easily over a year each, from what I've read. I can keep tabs on how much light they put out over time with the light meter. You can do this with T5's too. Quote from article:
It works great. New fixture with 6500k 32W tubes: as advertised, 2700 lm each. 70 degree temps @ 15 minutes run-time with analog thermometer at 2" from tubes. New fixture, rewired with 4-tube ballast and same tubes: 3800 lm each. 80 degree temps, same thermometer, same time, same place. Before: 5400 lumens combined. After: 7600 lumens combined. That's a 2200 lumen gain from an $11 48" light for an additional $17.
would this be good for a 2 foot tube,? using a 2 bulb 4 foot ballast? i have 4 of these ballast,, rated at 40 watts but require the ballast to run 2 bulbs,,, my setup is running 2 foot flouros,,, single bulb fixtures,,, ..................................................... this whole idea, is something ive been running thru my head,,,, to custom make a hood and bulbs without the fixtures,{ mount the guts on top of the hood,,,,} and the socket and lights under the hood,
The great things about these lights they put off little heat and lots of grow power. I know a guy who has used them for 15 years and always has a nice bumper crop. I would choose these over hps lights anyday when it comes to grow power and heat signature. And energy cost. Stay with the 4' though the two footers are for closets.
Hahaha, I'm growing in a closet. Plants look vibrant, I keep having to prune them and raise the lights! As of today, I've switched things around and re-checked the OD fixture. I measure 4000 lumens each coming out of 2 3000k 32W tubes. Hot damn. T5HO's put out 2000 more lumens, but cost 3-4x as much IIRC. Currently running 6x 32w T8 48" tubes, (2 3000k, 2 6500k, 2 HO 3000k) and 8x 26W 2700k CFL's on y-splitters, hung along both sides of the overheads. I'm getting 2000+ lumens in the center of the floor growspace, empty, with the lights at 32". Adding two 120mm fans soon, also working on a DIY 15W 2" x 40" LED strip with over 350 5mm red LED's on it in two colors, for damn near free...
For years I've been using T8's, and am wanting to upgrade to T5's,...but this could save me a bundle!!!!! Can you put up photos and pics of how to re wire these lights...exactly how you installed the extra ballast many thanks "V"
For twice the power you get 1.7 times the lumens. Not a good trade off as the lost light results in increased heat. Better to have four normal bulbs than two overdriven bulbs. Only reason to do this is for space concerns.
I got a Kill-A-Watt the other day to check this. I'm not sure you're right. In my case, using the (very cheap, very first) parts I used, I got a 2100 lumen total increase at an expense of 26 watts extra and a negligible increase in temps. The fixture now uses 91 watts as opposed to a standard use of 65 watts. Temps increased by 10 degrees F at the tubes, room temps might have gone up by one or two degrees overall but nothing extreme. (5' x 2' x 7' room) [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WJncJmkQPtM"]This video shows how to do this, or at least one simple way of doing it.[/ame] If that doesn't answer your questions, simply Google "overdriving fluorescent tubes". Fluorescent fixtures are very simple, the wires simply poke into the end terminals after you get it all apart.
How did you measure the additional lumens? If you are guessing then you are not in a position to counter my factual statement. Look, here is the deal: I am not trying to dissuade anyone from experimenting, but fluoros have been around for a century and many thousands of well-educated engineers have considered this and chose not to go this route - for good reason.
Brilliant, most Illuminating, and any other light 'pun' I can think of,....thank you so much peace "V"
that video really pumped me to do this,,,, i jst got to wait till i work in this certain area again,,, the office there had ordered 8 new ballasts for a 2 light system,,,,,and im gonna trade the manager some of my homegrown baccy for all 8 of them, and then im going to do this to my lights,,, //// By chickenhawk435 at 2012-01-06
Heat signatures? Are you familiar with circulation and insulation? The FLIR is not a pair of X-Ray Specs LOL.
Exactly. HIDs putting out 150 LPW have a lower heat signature than fluorescents putting out 80 LPW by quite a large margin. Too many confuse surface temperature with total heat output. Fluoros feel cooler because they have such a large surface area which has nothing to do with ambient temperature.