Subwoofer System

Meh... Why do they even giver thermal power handling then its not really that helpful if there IS mechanical limits... :/

about the sensitivity and stuff, thats why the good places give you a recommended size box range and a range to tune the box in. I know the RE site used to have a really nice box builder application/program type thing that could give you dimensions for different shaped boxes where you can find out the exact internal volume, and tune it. So all you really need to do is build it on the site and make the cut outs.

I almost got a RE SX 15 then When I was making the box I got really interested in the FI subs, so I was torn between them but the FI's were out of stock and my box never got completed lol. There was an issue with mounting depth also.

Right now i have some cheap MTX 12's im thinkin about getting a amp to run them at 750w. The amp I have now is garbage... 250w x1 And they actually sound decent off it. Just not as loud as they could be.

And yeah the BTL is crazy, are you saying that he would need to upgrade everything else as well if he wants to hear mids/highs? lol

I just want 1 15" BTL for now but that wont happen for a while.

 

well it depends largely on... your enclosure. you could build a large volume low tuned box and not even get halfway to your clipping point before it starts to overwork itself mechanically. now try a small sealed box. different sound, different behaviour entirely.

not really, those are super simple calculators that take little into account... most assume the enclosure is sitting in the middle of infinity iirc. imagine waves moving around there. now imagine sound pressure waves in a car... not really the same. its like going from simple 4th order ported to a bandpass. i dont mean to be a dick. things just aren't like you are saying

if he's going to use any of it's potential whatsoever lol
not usually worth running more than 1kW on your stock charging system (and 1kW definitely needs big 3 upgrade so that's not really stock either)
therefore the Fi X is probably the best match from that brand. A pair of SSDs might be too much sensitivity given up if he can't put them through their paces... that's when people start trying to get more out of it and push way into clipping

 

Then what are you supposed to do to make a good box lol... Its not like your gonna use trial and error to build the right box.

 

Well it's not that you'll have a bad one; modeling your situation accurately will just give you a much better one. I did some trial and error and the $50 Pete charges was well worth it. it's not mandatory to have it modeled morre thoroughly but it's good insurance against port noise or any other BS. if you live in the states he can build it too.

 

Old school amps are THE shit. The older Precision Power Art series amps and the Orion HCCA amps.... simply awsome.

 

I like your audio taste old ZED amps are awesome

 

mmm Art Series
almost grabbed one once

So OP is this any help?

 

kickers are nice i got 2 12in l7's in ported box with a 3000watt pyle amp and it sounds great i say go with kicker jl or psi

 

I love my fi btl 15", I built the box is tuned at 35hz and im lovin it. Its running on 2 kicker zx1000.1s, and an optima yellowtop. I used to have 2 15" L7's in my old tahoe but they just couldnt hit high notes, and took up a ton of space, my single 15" btl is way louder than the L7s were, powered by all of the same equipment, the tahoe hit 147.9 db

 

i have 1 seriously bad ass and MAJORLY BUMPING sony 10 inch powered by a 100 watt amp...shit goes hard

 

Nice setup bro, fi is top quality stuff

 

lolol
i love the ignorance here.
FI, RE, Alpine, all the mainstream brands.

You want shit that pounds??? Go for the shit thats not very known. Only people who know Car Audio will understand why I say that.
All the uncommon brands are the brands that really rape.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XMBXX64jKKo&feature=fvst]YouTube - TC Sounds LMS 18's Tuned for flat repsonse (26hz)[/ame]
TC sounds
I saw a 10" TC sound running 252 watts that hit harder than a Alpine Type X running its potential power.

The LMS version is the highest version that TC makes <dont hold me to that>
TC sounds are very clean.

From personal experience I would recommend
Orion HCCAS the 10 or 12 are both fine. They also can pound.
Alpine type R. only if your trying to get some bass, but not a system that slams into the ground
Type x if your trying to have a system that semi slams into the ground

My buddy has the step down from HCCAS and I can hear him like a mile down the road, but theyre not as clean as the HCCAS.

My other buddy has two kicker 12", the black and yellow ones, that is pushed by a 500 watt amp, and he gave me a ride to get some smokes and on my way out of the gas station he was setting off car alarms around him.

Its really what kind of vehicle, what kind of wiring, and if the box is ported/sealed and built to the right requirements for the sub that you own.

I know this was a rambled post and some parts have no meaning, but you get the jist of what im saying. If you got any questions or anything let me know.

Pioneer TS-W3002D4 12" Dual 4 ohm Champion PRO Series Subwoofer
Hifonics HFi2000D (HFi 2000D) Class D Monoblock Car Amplifier/Amp

Thats what one of my buddies has, I forget what size wiring he used either 0 or 4 gauge tho.
System is so loud, I can hear it when hes at home and he lives 1.5 mile + down the street lol.
it actually hit so hard it shattered his back window of his 99 f250 quadcab.
That system right there would slam, but you also would need a cap probably for voltage issues depending on what car, how big of a battery and what size your alternator is.

 

your all gay my sony powered by my mega amp WILL kick any bodys system ANYDAY fuckdouches

Name-Calling/Disrespect is not allowed here. - KSR

 

hahaahahaha yall know im right thats why yer not talkin bunch of dumbasses

Name-Calling/Disrespect is not allowed here. - KSR