Soil Mix, suggestions

Discussion in 'Growing Organic Marijuana' started by bigtg, Aug 6, 2017.

  1. #1 bigtg, Aug 6, 2017
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2017
    Hello, I am going to go all organics this run, I am basing my ingredients off of the Subcool Super Soil mix, I had a few extra things though that were not on that list and was wanting a second or third opinion on how they would all mix together. I have never grown all organic, so am complete noob, I have been doing some homework, but there is much information, I will also post the link for the recipe I am basing it off of. Also I am unsure of the ratio's when it comes to adding amendments if someone could help in that aspect. anyway enough rambling, here are the ingredients I have:
    (PS: when listing amendments I have all big bags/boxs of each)

    • 2 - 1.5 ft³ - Fox Farms Ocean Forest
    • 2 - 1.5 ft³ - Roots Organic
    • 1 - 0.5 ft³ - Ancient Earth - General Organics
    • 1 - 15 lb - Worm Casting
    • 1 - 1 ft³ - Organic Compost
    • Bokashi
    • Azomite
    • Alfalfa Meal
    • Kelp Meal
    • Oyster Shell
    • Blood Meal
    • Insect Frass
    • Fish Bone Meal
    • Great White
    • Humic Acid Concentrate
    • Azos
    • Mykos Madness

    There are all the ingredients that I have, NOW I am unsure of the ratios of each one I would add to make a mixture that is nice and strong, but something that is NOT going to just destroy my plants after I have been vegging for about 3-5 weeks. I know this is the right place to come, yall have been very helpful in the past :love-m3j: Thanks Cheers all!
     
    • Like Like x 1
  2. #2 Quantary, Aug 6, 2017
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2017
    Have you considered adding coco coir, perlite, vermiculite, sphagnum moss or other amendments to the soil? I've had good outcomes with using soil-free media with nutrient teas. You don't have to use any bagged soil at all tbh.

    The veg phase I use a weak tea of fermented beet juice (to introduce beneficial bacteria), rock dust, and a calcium supplement.

    It's better in my opinion to have the growing media lower in nutes so you can be more flexible in feeding the plants as necessary with teas.
     
  3. This looks like a very (unnecessarily) expensive mix...

    If I had to guess I'd say add no more than 2 cups (total) of amendments to each CF of mix. Whatever you do, make sure it drains well and let it sit for 2-4 weeks after mixing before use.

    Next time start from scratch and you'll most likely end up with a better quality mix for a third of the cost.

    I'd be super sparing with that humid acid concentrate...

    J
     
    • Like Like x 2
    • Agree Agree x 2
  4. More power to you friend, but for a first grow I would suggest Promix HP (or even the cheap BBS Promix which Iuse) , Perlite, and calcined clay (plain, strained kitty litter). Boom, done. Oh wait, and get yourself a 20-20-20 fert for veg and somethiing aroud 7-15-30 for flower from a greenhouse (not a weed store) and it will save you. Now I do add a bit of Myko Extreme at transplant time...cheers. Why make it so difficult with 17 different additives?
     
  5. How is this even vaguely organic?

    J
     
    • Agree Agree x 4
    • Like Like x 1
    • Funny Funny x 1
  6. Sorry, did not note the thread source.
     
  7. No problem!!

    Peace,

    J
     
  8. LUL. Well said Jerry. I may have certainly spent to much $ but, you live and you learn :love-m3j: What do you mean by each CF of mix? I planned to add some Hydroton clay pellets, maybe pick up some perlite, Would you have anything to suggest Jerry, I can take some criticism :metal: or extra pointers ;)
     
  9. Each "CF" = cubic foot, or 7.5 gallons

    You've bought slot of stuff. Go ahead and use it. In the meantime I highly suggest doing some reading here in the GC Organics forum - both of the No-Till threads or the easy soil mix threads would be great places to start - and many will be glad to help.

    But don't waste what you've got.

    J
     
    • Like Like x 1
    • Informative Informative x 1
    • Friendly Friendly x 1
  10. Yeah, I'm with Jerry on this. A lot of unnecessary money spent.But since you have the goods check out Clackamas Coots recipe for example.( google it.) And most of that stuff I would use in my compost bin and worm bin.You still get all the good but in a more usable form. The Subcool super soil works but it's a very hot mix and incredibly wasteful. Your plants take what they need and the rest degrades. Which isn't bad if you have good biological activity in your soil,But that seems to be over looked in the Subcool mix. Compost and worm castings will become a friend for ever. For what you payed for the bag soil alone you could have made 2-3x's the amount of what you get from that recipe and a superior mix. Also you have a smaller margin for error. Build a biologically active soil and compost and the plant will thrive. Fewer ph issues because nature will take care of that for you. Feed the soil not the plant. Good luck and peace.
     
  11. But doesn't the humid acid make it sticky?????:poke:
     
    • Like Like x 2
    • Funny Funny x 1
  12. Hey Ficky, Does it make what sticky?
     
  13. I was teasing J with his auto correct. Humid instead of humic.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  14. Gotchya.
     
  15. no but you can cure your buds with it, just need to get the correct humid acid!Bolt
     
    • Funny Funny x 1
  16. Is your name Gary?
     

Share This Page