Soil mix help (your thoughts)

Discussion in 'Growing Organic Marijuana' started by lasagnaman, Aug 16, 2013.

  1. This is my soil mix
     
    Any thoughts???
     
     
    Soil Mix 
    30% aeration           3 parts
    20% worm castings  2 parts
    10% animal compost   1 parts
    20% peat moss        2 parts
    10% vermifire             1 parts
    10% coco coir            1 parts
    \n(in cups)amend with:
    per 6 cubic ft
    alfalfa meal 2 1/2
    fish hydrolosate 2
    kelp meal 3 1/2
    neem meal 1
    azomite or glacial rock dust (greensand)  8 
    dolomitic lime 2 1/2
    oyster shell flower  1
    \nwater with:
    mollasses or agave nectar mies into water when needed
    epsom salt mixed into water when needed
    ACT (aerated compost tea)
    foliar spray (rarely) with nutrient tea
    \nTop dress with:
    ewc (worm castings)
    horse manure
    kelp meal

     
  2. What is "vermifire"?

    J
     
  3. Azomite and greensand are not the same as rock dust!! 3-4 cups rock dust per cu ft. I mix all my amendments together at 2 parts kelp to 1 part everything else then mix in at 3 cups per cu ft. I do use azomite and greensand in that amendment mix.
    I know so much rock dust sounds crazy but since I started using it everything is at a whole new level!!
    Youre on the right track and good luck.
     
  4. vermifire is a very nicely made potting soil i have a few bags of.
     
    p.s. this is my edited mix (anyone have any recommendations for extra amendments?)
     
    (in cups)amend with:
    per 6 cubic ft
    alfalfa meal 2 1/2
    fish hydrolosate 2
    kelp meal 4 1/2
    neem meal 1
    azomite and/or glacial rock dust  16
    dolomitic lime 2 1/2
    oyster shell flower  1
    greensand  2 1/2
    \np.s.s. how long should i let it "Cook"/process?
     
  5. I'd say at least 3-4 weeks... And make sure you've got good castings.
    Good luck man.

    J
     
  6. just wondering, but, should i be expecting the need for fertilization to arise?
     
    p.s. do you think i have too much or too little amendment added to the mix?
     
  7. Generally "nutritional" amendments run at 2-3 cups per cf - liming agents (oyster shell/lime) at 1 cup/CF and rock dusts at 4-5 cups/cf.

    But - remember that you're using a store bought soil as a base which already has some stuff in it so you'll need to lessen your amounts,

    J
     
  8. if i were to mix up 5 gallon buckets would this work?
     
    per 5 gallon bucket:
    1/3 cup alfalfa meal
    1/3 cup fish hydrolasate
    2/3 cup kelp meal
    1/10 cup neam meal
    2 1/2 cups azomite and/or glacial rock dust
    1/10 cup dolomitic lime
    1/5 cup oyster shell flower
    1/5 cup greensand
    1/5 cup biolive
     
     
    Mix: 
    2 half gallons (parts) perlite
    1 half gallons (parts) rice hulls
    2 half gallons (parts) worm castings
    1 half gallons (parts) horse manure
    2 half gallons (parts) canadian sphagnum peat moss
    1 half gallons (parts) vermifire
    1 half gallons (parts) coco coir
     
    p.s. your the best jerry =)
     
  9. #9 lasagnaman, Jan 5, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 5, 2014
    bump? lol
     
    p.s. the seasons coming lol and i still need some confidence boosting
     
    p.s.s. what will happen if i add TOO MUCH amendment? i understand what the recomended amounts are but am not sure why i could not add larger amounts (it must be evading me at the moment, but I was SURE that as long as proper "cooking" or soil "digestion" happens, than burning wouldn't occur?)
     
  10. "than burning wouldn't occur?"

    Correct. By rights you could compost a heap of pure soil amendments - kelp, alfalfa, neem, comfrey, etc., and as long as it sat and nutrient cycled long enough you could grow right in it. I'm not saying it wouldn't take a long time, but once everything was broken down it wouldn't burn any more - organic matter is organic matter; some just contains more nutrients than others.

    It also, and this is quite an important factor, comes down to how much microbial activity is happening in your soil which is why you will always hear advice to use high quality vermicompost and compost in your soil, because the higher the quality the more action that's going on so the quicker the cycling happens.

    I don't measure my amendments; I just add some of this and some of that as I think it's needed but I don't worry about adding a little extra because I know how viable (living) my homemade compost and homemade vermicompost are - plus I let them sit for much longer than most before use.

    J
     
  11. thanks =), now i feel  a lot better
     

Share This Page