Size pot for indoor organic scrog in 24"x24" tent?

Discussion in 'Growing Organic Marijuana' started by ZTS, Aug 18, 2017.

  1. Hey there!

    Just got another tent and a Mars Hydro 300 + a 100watt cobb light.

    I'm planning on doing an organic no-till grow with worms so I can have an organic line for myself.

    I'll be using for their soil as I dont want to wait 30 days.

    I'm just curious as to what would be best for a SCROG grow with 2 plants?

    Two 5 gallons? One 15 gallon?

    I only want to veg for a maximum of a month.

    Thanks so much!
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  2. okay cool i have some input here, 2 plants in a 2x2 grow space? do not put the plants in the same container unless your making like a bed of soil in there lol imo, also i would put 2 of the biggest containers that you can fit in that 24x24 the reason is you are running a scrog not a sog, not putting some trellis up and allowing your girls too strech up into it, like your scrogging, so get the biggest containers you can fit and fill in that screen!!! than flower that shit! lol
  3. Sounds good! I think I can fit two 7 gallons so i'll be trying that. Thanks for the advise.
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  4. i got a tip along time ago from a pro at my local hydro shop, dont ever risk your end yield due too pot size, but also remember that pot size and veg time primarily determine plant size so dont blow your shit up tooo hard by mass veg and huge buckets!, after that tip i started pulling 1.2/1.5lb's a light under a 1000w hps horti with a trellis 1 month veg time 4 plants each in 13 gallon buckets! of coco in a tent 2! low cielings!!
  5. #5 OrganicSamurai, Aug 18, 2017
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2017
    Just a heads up if you are planning on running a No-Till the minimum size pot you can get away with is 15 gallons. With the 2 x 7 gallons you would have to run a ROLS ( Recycled Organic Living Soil ). 10 gallons and under just can't support a No-Till system.
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  6. Thanks for the information! If I plan on having a worm farm as well in order to feed castings and worm tea would that be considered ROLV?
  7. #7 OrganicSamurai, Aug 19, 2017
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2017
    Not exactly. ROLS ( Recycled Organic Living Soil ) is when you recycle and re-amend your soil with every grow. This is done by dumping the pot out and adding amendments/compost etc.. No-Till is when you harvest by cutting at the base of the plant, leave the whole root system in tact in the soil and simply put another plant in its place. All the while never moving the pot. Now No-Till is also done in conjunction with a cover crop and/or mulch that is constantly breaking down on top of the soil and being digested by the worms in the pot.

    So the worm farm doesn't really have to do with it. They are just different growing style Acronyms. The upside of No-Till is you have no down time where the soil is re-amended and " cooked ". At the bottom is a thread about re-using your soil which is essentially ROLS. Also, I put a link for an awesome No-Till thread.

    No-Till Gardening: Revisited ( No-Till )

    ( Rols )

    Re-using Your Organic Soil

    Organic soil can be re-used over and over again. In fact, the soil actually gets better as it ages! Organic amendments take a long time to break down-definitely longer than a single grow cycle and years in some cases. You can even re-use the soil without adding any extra amendments. A plant only uses a small amount of the nutrition available in an organic soil, so remember that there's still a lot of good stuff in there. Soil can be used for several grow cycles without any additional amendments-you can grow for years without re-amending it. Also, if your garden is no-till, then you wouldn't follow this re-amending procedure. Just top-dress with some extra "goodies" every so often.

    It's important to note that re-amending your organic soil is an art, not a science. While the recommendations I've made below are good, your soil may need something a little different. If your plant showed any kind of deficiencies, you'll need to amend the soil to correct for those now. Ultimately you should trust your gut and go with what you think is best over following a prescribed formula. The only thing you should absolutely add more of is your humus, and then any extra aeration amendment needed to offset the additional humus.

    I like to lightly re-amend after each grow cycle or two to keep a steady supply of amendments in multiple stages of decomposition. After harvesting, pull out the root balls and soil and dump them in a large container. Use a shovel to chop up the roots as best you can (don't sweat over this). If you shake the soil off the root balls, then allow them to dry out for a day or two, they will break up pretty easily. Then add the root balls and old soil to some new soil or just use as-is if you don't have any new soil.

    -additional humus (ewc and/or compost) at the rate of 1 part humus to 4 parts old soil.
    -additional aeration amendment: add about half as much additional aeration amendment as you do additional humus (so if you add 4 gallons of compost/ewc, add 2 gallons of aeration amendment). You may need to add more to keep the level of aeration amendment consistent with that of the original soil-go with what you think is best.
    -kelp meal: 1 cup per cubic foot of soil.
    -dry organic fertilizer: about 1/4-1/2 cup per cubic foot.
    -liming amendment: approximately 1/4 cup liming amendment per cubic foot of soil

    If you amend soil this lightly, you don't have to let it sit and cycle (cook) before using it again-just toss a new plant right in. However, if you add any "extra" amendments or more than about 1/2 cup per cubic foot of the dry organic fertilizer, you will need to let it cook for 2-4 weeks before re-using it.

    At this point you can also add any new "extra" amendments that you want to add. I would recommend adding about 1-1.5 cups total of additional amendments. Remember that if you add "extra" amendments you will need to allow the soil another 2-4 weeks of cycling (cooking) to give those amendments time to break down.
    Let's say that you started with the base soil amended with only kelp meal and dry organic fertilizer, and now you want to several "extra" amendments (or just one, whatever you like). Make a blend of all the amendments you want to add, using equal portions of all amendments with a double portion of kelp meal. Now add 1-1.5 cups of this mix to your organic soil and allow to cycle for 2-4 weeks, or more (the longer the better).

    (in progress, thanks for being so patient guys!)[/QUOTE]

    Pulled from this thread: Easy Organic Soil Mix for Beginners
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  8. if you are going to go with the no-till method you will want 20gallon for best results. personally i like to go with the biggest soil volume i can fit in a space, so assuming you dont need to move around your pot you can fit a 30 gallon smarty in a 25"x25" space (30 gallon smartpot is 24" diameter)

    as for veg time and number of plants, although this will be influenced by your choice of genetics, i would suggest starting with 1 plant, see how big it gets and by round 2 you will have a clear idea of how many you would be able to fit, but most likely you will not want to do more then 2 plants in that space IMHO.
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  9. Is this necessary if the plant will gill up my canopy with a month of veg? Thats always been the case for me in the past. Would I need all that space still?
  10. not sure i understand the question. my point is bigger soil volume is always better, so get the biggest you can in the space you want to grow. thats what i would do anyway.
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