When I just recently lowered the ppm in res, I let 3 gallons of water sit over night then I lowered it's ph. I then took 3 gallons out of the res and added the ph'd downed water with no nutes. Is this the right way to lower ppm in your res?
you can lower the PPM by doing this but your Ph wont be right. You You want to add your Ph Down with enough time for it to react and stabilize. Could be a half hour to a day depending on reacting elements present in the water
Yeah, I've noticed its best to give it a a couple hours to check and get the best reading since I have a recirculating system. If I measure to soon my ph is 3.5 because there was no time to mix. My system has not reached over 6.3 ph and has not been under 5.5 I haven't had to ph up my water once and I don't plan to because the add back method.
And to make sure my ph readings are accurate I use a digital meter and ph test droplets that came with my ph up and down kit.
I stir my res with a big spoon each time I add anything. I assume this speeds up the process a bit, but my pH usually takes about 24 hrs to stabilize after a res change, then it's usually just adding a little pH down as I top off. Can you explain why that is? I'm no chemist lol. Also, how does the temperature affect the nurients reacting with each other? I'm still using ice jugs to keep my tank cool so there is probably somewhat of a temperature gradient across the reservior.
not sure if temps affect nutrients but they affect the roots and growth of algae. Your ph will naturally rise as it sits and bubbles...I'm no chemist I just know it happens lol. Once you get it dialed in though it won't shift much. I clean and feed on Sundays, once that first dose is re-ph'd on Monday it's usually good to go. Just add fresh water as needed
When i stir up the nutrients that settle in the bottom, stuff starts reacting. I usually have to keep stirring it up for at least 24 hrs and making minor adjustments with pH down, and i've noticed it's sometimes a little higher immediately after a flood cycle than immediately before (possibly due to nutrients that keep getting stirred up and recirculated). I only know what I know from observation, I'd like to understand the chemistry behind it..
Yeah same here, only know what I see. I've been slow on learning the why as it keeps opening to new things and before I know it my brain is overloaded. I haven't been active in the forums or reading up for about a year just letting everything soak in. Back now to hone my skills as I'm expanding my setup
the Ph changes as the ionic balance is achieved between Hydrogen ions(positively charged) VS Hydroxide ions(negatively charged). Alkaline elements in water react with the acidic components in Ph Down but this takes some time to achieve ionic balance. The more that needs to react with each other, the longer it takes. The process is sped up with agitation. The solution naturally increases because the plant uses the negative and leaves the positive (to put it simply) resulting in a net alkaline solution warmer temps make things react faster as their electrons are moving faster. we keep the res cool for the plants sake, not for the Ph to balance. A cooler aerated res hold more oxygen and less CO2 which is good for the root zone (roots use some Oxygen at night time). It is also believed that the higher oxygenated water helps the plant metabolize nutrients but this may be anecdotal.
Here's the pics greenhouse white rhino, 1month 2 days from seed. Can anybody tell me what the black is on the stem and the end of the leaves?
I not sure about that one... looks like rot, maybe overwatering? Totally guessing here... But on a side note, did you grow from seed or clone? Your "white rhino" looks absolutely nothing like mine lol. NOTE: Just went back and re-read. I wonder what the hell my clones are then? I think they may actually be Blue Rhino, I think the guy I bought them from told me the wrong thing or marked them wrong because he also has Blue Rhino clones.
I can't diagnose for shit so not gonna try. When I have issues I dump my rez and try again. Usually it's over-feeding or something environmental such as heat, though 98% of the time it's a GE issue. Btw, I'm sure it's in an earlier post but what are your water temps?
The problem coming from the stem is ok now, and you can see there it's healed. But the problem on the other plant is getting worse. Here's the updated photos Greenhouse White Rhino 1month 6 days. I think It maybe root rot and it's starting to get aggressive. Is it bad that my air tubing is clear? My hose from the water pump is black so no light can reach the water circulating, but my clear hoses started to grow some nasty slime on it so I just cleaned all the tubing with alcohol. I never heard clear tubing on an air hose can mess shit up but iIm thinking since that's only problem I can point out its gotta be that. Tell me what you think...
what makes you suspect root rot? What temp is your res? Clear tubing as long as light isnt getting into the bucket is fine. You say your "hose from the pump". If this is a recirculating pump, you should put it on a timer. This reduces heat and give root s achance to dry out. When the lights are out you need ZERO pump work and then 10 minutes a few time during lighttime is fine. This will give you stronger roots and reduce heat(if thats a problem)
And other than the bullshit happening now, based on the 1 month 2 day photos are the plant's looking good for their age?
I'll make sure to do that.. my res is around 71. But that's the exact temp these pro's use when growing in this grow session video for the exact same plant. Is a half hour on/ half hour off good for a timer? Because that's the only timer I have right now.. http://www.greenhouseseeds.nl/shop/white-rhino-feminised.html go to the video