Powder mildew 7 weeks into flowering

[quote name='"LumperDawgz"']1 cup organic seed meal (equal parts of organic cottonseed meal, flaxseed meal, alfalfa meal & canola meal)
1/2 cup Alaska humus (Denali Gold brand)
1 cup homemade worm castings
2 tbls. kelp meal
1/2 cup fish enzyme (fungai development)
1/2 tsp. BioAg Pure Humic Acid (fungai development)
1 or 2 tsp. molasses (not necessary but I use it when I need higher bacteria counts).

6 gallons bubbled water

Run it at 75F for 18 hours to achieve a high fungai tea and 24 hours for a higher bacteria profile.

Spray on all branches, stems, leaves, everything to destroy powdery mildew and maintain that with 2x per week of neem seed oil application.

Use as an inoculant for the soil after clones are set in veg and again at the beginning of the flower cycle. Maintain with weekly waterings of fish enzyme and seaweed extract.

Works for me.

LumperDawgz[/quote]

That was a post from LD about a million and a half years ago. Im not an expert on mildew killing. But this is what i thought of. Good luck!

 

No worry hawaiian! I live oahu. And i know what you mean. I'll try n research to see if i can find an easier method also.

 

get zero tolerence herbal fungicide i just put on the first application and already i sse results within 2-3 hours it smells awesome too....dude trust i was battleing this shit for days and this is the best so far its 25 bucks a quart and that should last you 2-3 harvests.....and it smells amazing...trust me dude unless you wanna get a sulpher burner give this a shot not to expensive and i like it ill give ya an update in the next 2 weeks to let ya know how it really is

 

Zero tolerance is the shit for bugs; I love their pesticide. Little expensive; looking into making my own mix based on what they have. For PM I use greencure, and its amazing. Spray one application zero tolerance, and the next time (2-4 days later) spray the green cure.
Neem can be used to prevent the spread of PM as well; but infected leaves are lost. I'd pinch off any infected leaves to slow spread. I thought leaving them on wouldn't be a problem last harvest; spread much much faster than my current infection. Not worth the leaves. Outdoors your at the mercy of the elements; GL.

 

herbal pesticide is for pests fungicides its made for powdery mildew and ya but every leaf you pinch off is stored energy the plant loses

 

F zero tolerance right in the A.

there are better ways to fight off insects.

the LD method sounds pretty good, just dont spray your buds with it.

 

Second the F zero tolerance in the A...^^

You can do this too, I wrote it recently somewhere else and copied it because it's a lazy sunday afternoon and I am Hiiiiiiiiiiiigh:

If you successfully innoculate your plant in lactobacillus acidodophilis it won't get powder mildew. You take a jar, 1/2 fill it with organic milk, and put it on the counter. Then take another jar, and pour a cup of white rice into it, and pour a cup of warm water onto the rice and shake it. Pour the water off of the rice jar into the milk (that is you add just the water, not the rice, to the milk). That rice wash containes lacto bacillus bacteria, and the milk will culture it for you. You just half cover up the top by leaving the lid askew and not sealing it. Leave it in a warm cupboard for 3 days. It's separates. Draw off the clear serum fluid, that's a good culture of Lacto Bacillus Acidophilis, mix with water a bottle of water and spray your plant, stem, soil. It keeps in the fridge for a week. Spray all new growth.

This works. It really really works. Naturally, cheeply, safely, permanently.

 

you know what skunk. (knock on wood) ive never had any mildew problems. but the way you talk about that spray, i would totally use that as my first try.

 

w.e the herbal fungicide works fine for me and is not that costly so i think its pretty gud but w.e

 

It probably is good actually. I just really think that we should be spending all of our extra money on fantastic genetics, and really shiny new bongs and diffy's and fun stuff...not on bottles of zero tolerance. No biggy. The lactos is less than a buck, so he can spend all his left over money on cooler stuff.

 

Maybe with 1 plant its not costly; it goes up astronomically as you have multiple plants, or rows of em. One of their 16$ jugs last me 1 spray, and im 100% sure there are people with larger gardens than mine with issues. After Buck and Skunk's glowing reviews of ZT, I think im going to stop using it all together. I think for PM I'm going to do some variation of the two methods posted in here; got directions for both cultures in a notepad on my desktop, haha. I only wish I hadn't just picked up a gallon of ZT...
Can they(the cultures) be used in flowering, or would mold be promoted? Can one use the cultures and a rag to wipe down leaves if moldy fruits can become a problem?

Also, I can tell you firsthand that their herbal fungicide does not work as well as their pesticide. The ONLY difference in between them is that the pesticide has more ingredients; me using their pesticide should confer some fungal resistance (or, alot of resistance at the rate I was using it); I got mold on every crop, as well as PM.

What about pests though? I love the smell of ZT, and it seems to work pretty decently. Would it be worth me making my own batches of a ZT-like substance using food grade essential oils? or are there better methods? Currently I switch between neem, ZT, and soapy water for getting rid of unwanted bugs.

ALSO:
@ lafntiger - yes, each leaf you pinch off is stored energy its lost. However, because of the infection, it is highly likely that the leaf has already started a slow process to kill itself; this moves unwanted nutrients onto the leaf and sugars out. And each infected leaf is a sporing ground with millions of spores; better to remove this than keep it. If it spreads to multiple plants and all over the whole plant, the energy they suck from the plant and the damage they do far outweigh any residual sugars in single leaves.
And, they are meant to take your money more than their "-cide" dutys; from using them I can tell you they work better at control than complete eradication.

 

The lacto is 'control' too, not 'erradication', because the spores are everywhere and they stay subinfection forever, but the Lacto seems to have a better control standard than the stuff in the ZT. I'm not a bug person tho, that's someone elses learning curve, I like my bugs. I have critters in my soil that have cute smiles and short buggy antenna's that gallop all over the place, pointy nose ones that look like they have wings but none of them can fly, short white ones that walk around on my containers and flip me off if I spray them with water , and worms that I only see if I water too heavily (I think they come up for air), and all kind of soil microlife... I think sometimes that it must be keeping the harmful ones like mites at bay, because I haven't had a mite infection in like 10 years now. But my dirt piles move of there own accord

 

[quote name='"SkunkPatronus"']The lacto is 'control' too, not 'erradication', because the spores are everywhere and they stay subinfection forever, but the Lacto seems to have a better control standard than the stuff in the ZT. I'm not a bug person tho, that's someone elses learning curve, I like my bugs. I have critters in my soil that have cute smiles and short buggy antenna's that gallop all over the place, pointy nose ones that look like they have wings but none of them can fly, short white ones that walk around on my containers and flip me off if I spray them with water , and worms that I only see if I water too heavily (I think they come up for air), and all kind of soil microlife... I think sometimes that it must be keeping the harmful ones like mites at bay, because I haven't had a mite infection in like 10 years now. But my dirt piles move of there own accord

[/quote]

Lol skunk. I dont think ive read a post from you that i didnt like lol