Plants refusing to bud

Discussion in 'Sick Plants and Problems' started by santeriaxx420, Mar 2, 2015.

  1. Hello people, My budding plants are coming along nicely except for 2! One has had lanky growth its entire lifespan and refuses to bud, and my other one clawed up when transitioning into flower and never healed. This one not producing either. They get bigger and bigger but no buds! Ive been feed/ feed/ water... letting the soil get adequately dry before feeding. I have (had?) fungus gnats and am still kinda battling them so maybe its that. There is a link to my journal in my sig, please refer to that as i have much more info on my feedings, pictures and care taking of my plants. Thank you!
    Medium: FFOF W/ Added perlite & Dolomite lime for ph buffer
    Pots: 3 gal potting containers
    Grow space: 5x5x6
    Lights: 1x 600w HID, 1x 300W LED 1x 100W CFL
    Exaust: 6" high velocity fan thru cool tube, 12" fan comes on every 15 minutes
    Nutes: let eat ffof for several weeks then started GH 3 part series at 1/4 strength starting in flower
    PH: i always ph 6.5 to 6.8 my runoff is spot on
    Temp 60 -75
    Humidity 20 -30
     
    20150302_152833.jpg
     
    20150302_152825.jpg
     

     
  2. Fox farm soil is notorious for bugs, specifically the dreaded fungus gnats.

    Do a pyrethrin drench, 3-5x recommended dose, then Seal the room.

    The claw is either nitrogen toxicity or lime toxicity, but most likely the first.

    Do a flush, wait for it to dry, then start back at 1/2 to 3/4 nutes.
    ~ poke
    Ps. That meter sucks, throw it away, seriously.

    Lift your pots when theyre wet, then lift them when theyre dry. The difference will be obvious. Thats how you learn the correct watering method.
     
  3.  
    Lmfao Ty for the reply. The meter was for a visual aid, I know how to judge weight. I popped a no pest strip in there today, and will flush tomorrow for sure. As for the pyrethrin, can i do a bomb? Id really hate to do that to my budding babies tho D:
     
  4. Btw ive been using 1/4 a mosquito dunk with my waterings for like the past 2 weeks. Should i stop? continue?
     
  5. NPS contains dichlorvoris, itll wipe out those flyers for sure!

    But i wouldnt add it at the end of flower, i add mine at the beginning of veg and a month before flower as they slowly dissipate into a gas. Wont hurt though imho, it breaks down quickly in light in amatter of days. However, it WILL effect terpenes if youre late into flower.

    I wouldnt bomb it. Buy liquid pyrethrin, mix like i said then drench roots.

    Itll wipe out microbes so an ACT may be required to jump start microbes!

    You need any more help just quote me. Ill be here brother :metal:

    Now excuse me while i dance to this jam! I am sober as fu.....

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iX-QaNzd-0Y&feature=youtube_gdata_player
    ~ poke
    It wont do shit imho.

    Mosquito dunks are only 17% bt, 83% filler...

    Gnatrol is better 37% bt, fwiw
    ~ poke
     
  6. #6 santeriaxx420, Mar 3, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 3, 2015
     
    Very good info poke, thank you so much. So tomorrows flush, the back end will contain liquid pyrethrin and when it dries i will follow with 1/4 strength nutes and molasses to help microbe growth. Sound good?
     
    My girl's always got that song going on her pandora.  
     
    Feeling a little hxc tonight, kickin it to some ABR & smoking some keif with bubble hash.  :metal:  :bongin:  :metal:
     
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2nq0E3UfjdM
     
  7. Hell yeah man,

    You could spray pyrethrin in the air and watch mosquitos drop. Its sprayed on every u.s. military uniform on earth as a prevatative.

    Got audioslave blastin through my speakers!!! :metal:

    The flush is gonna make the fungus gnats thrive. Ill get you my fungus gnat list of things to try brb!
    ~ poke
     
  8. #8 rain dancer, Mar 3, 2015
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2015

    FUNGUS GNATS:
    In soil heres what you use for fungus gnats
    -Letting plants dry out til the point of near death
    -DE
    -neem oil
    -neem meal
    -Top layer of sand (doesnt work because theyre in all parts of the soil)
    -Top layer of perlite
    -BT (both gnatrol and mosquito dunks-combined)
    -garlic juice
    -Spinosad
    -Yellow sticky traps
    -Sliced potatoes to catch larvae (theyll take the bait)
    -Nematodes
    -Hypoaspis miles (predator mites)
    -Lavender sprays
    -Cinnamon on top layer
    -Pepper juice
    -No Pest Strips (kills adults)
    - pyrethrin
    Now ill say this cuz its the truth. NOTHING will work as quickly as pyrethrin. Your plants will go from drooping to praying in hours and get better and better each day after. Id recommend two to three treatments, 3-5 days apart (let it dry out).
    Reason being pyrethrin switches on the salt recepters in the insects, which causes them to die a pretty horrific death. Theres been studies done on mosquitos in villages where malaria is prevalent. Just spraying outside each hut was enough to eradicate malaria in those huts from 80-100 percent over a one year period. The control group that was not treated saw a 75% increase in malaria cases.
    Mosquitos and fungus gnats are cousins. The fungus gnat larvae is the real enemy, taking 3 weeks to transform in the soil, eating fresh young root hairs in the process, creating a perpetual cycle of decay that helps them thrive. Thr lfe cycles overlap too, which is unfortunate. Mix at 3-5 times the recommended dose.
    But pyrethrin, being synthetic pyrethrum, a naturally occuring poison found in the chrysanthemum flower family is devastating to them. It is mixed with another chemical to make it so toxic to insects that it literally penetrates their outer skin/shell in the soil. the smell drives the adults away where they die anyways, being effected by the poison in the air.
    I treated a room a few days ago. I checked last night and plants that were nearly dead, I mean scary sick to the point of have a part of a leaf or two left and being sticks otherwise now have new growth, within a day of treatment.
    The downside is being a poison it devastates microbial life. The good thing is that it breaks down in light quickly, so apply at night right before lights out or right after for maximum effect. The good part is microbes can be added back with a simple tea
    While its true that pyrethrin alone will wipe them out, overusage in commercial applications has been shown to build a resistance in insects. Its also highly toxic to acquatic animals, so runoff may be a concern.
    I wouldnt use it in flower due to the terpene production and possibility of pyrethrin vapors binding to terpenes.
    If there are human females in the area, its best to seal the room off air wise until the pyrethrin has dissipated, due to its effect on females over males. Its not realy a concern but a wise word of caution. It made my wife dizzy and that was enough for me to only do a treatment when she was not home and seal the room after.
    This is not to say it isnt safe. The U.S. military sprays every uniform with pyrethrin as a prevatative. Its also been used forever as a natural pesticide for bugs.
    I highly recommend you apply a few methods above to not only eradicate, but to prevent reoccurance.
    Hope this helps!
    ~ poke

    ^ theres my struggle buddy and almost nothin works in calis central valley due to overuse of pesticides (7 million TONS dumped on us annually) :hide:
     
  9.  
    I love audioslave... its a bummer De La Rocha isn't with RATM, but Cornell taking his place as vocalist makes for killer tunes with those dudes behind him. 
    Yea wet soil is a breeding ground for troubles, so ill have to put the fans up higher and on longer. Ive got Diatomacious earth so thats going on too along with a top layer of perlite and maybe even hydroton. 
    These 2 will most certainly have to flower an extra several weeks. Im redoing my room at the end of this run once the other 4 are done so maybe it'll work out. I'm getting an extra 600W hid, ditching the tent for flower and having 3/4 of a room to flower in. My veggers are gettin the 5x5
     
  10. Geez i didnt realize you guys had it that bad.  All those farms out there with the constant pesticides that sounds like it has the potential to be disgusting. Out here in good ol Rhode Island its a brisk but lovely 16F and more snow on the way to add to our already 5+ feet we've gotten. My plants arent complaining, keeps grow room temps solid 60F. Growing in cali temps would have my electric bill skyrocketing. Im hoping this winter drags and it looks like it will. Dont wana hook up the AC again this summer man...
     
  11. #11 rain dancer, Mar 3, 2015
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2015
    I know man...time changes all things, but a closed door is an open window...know what im sayin?

    Good things can come of bad situations,

    Careful with DE, it molds when wet and when wet clumps and is useless! Dont breathe it in either, itll stay in your lungs like fiber glass....ask me how i know haha

    Perlite/sand/hydroton is much better....BUT

    FUNGUS GNATS dont live on the top soil. Thats a MYTH that gets passed on unfortunately. Ive documented proof that they live in ALL parts of soil, so even a drain hole on the Bottom can house them!

    Got some diy sticky traps directions in my jungle thread if you wanna save some money!

    Right on with the upgrade! Youre gonna be a happy man!!!

    ~ poke
     
  12. I feel you man, well worded. Last I think ratm did a show was back in 2010 ish over your way. Wish i coulda gone but i think it was only one show and only in cali. 
     
    I've been sketched out about the DE since i got it. Gets everywhere, makes a BIG mess. No fun. I had one sticky left from my last run (FFOF and i had gnats go figure lol) so i threw that up in the tent. A few more would deff make a difference though. Its just that with the fans going i dont want any leaves hitting the traps, that stuff dont like to come off lol.
     
  13. You can make sticky traps with tanglefoot and yellow folders :)

    I feel you man. I dont use a lot of stuff most people use any more, leaves money in my pocket, less stress.

    Just wipe the bastards out n be done with em!

    Never known much of anything to survive NPS + sticky traps + pyrethrin.

    Fox farm adds hypoaspis miles mites to their soil, then denies it.

    Hypoaspis miles are a fungus gnat natural predator.
     
  14. #14 usedtocare, Mar 3, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 3, 2015
    Are you sure you don't have any light leaks? I wouldn't waste my time flowering the sick clawed up overfertilized plant. Gnatrol will kill gnats but some environmental issue is inviting them. What is your ventilation like? You should have fresh air coming in and being exhausted 24/7, and a circulating fan in the room. If you don't, your plants get sick. 
     
  15. #15 smokeymcdoodles, Mar 10, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 10, 2015
    its humid as hell in there. Pests will move to the sick plant. Its easier for them. Keep the sick one in there but don't treat it.  treat the others HARD...like chemicals. In that tent i promise you they will move to the sick plant then when its ridiculously covered in crawling things in the soil and out remove it
     
    O and hey you need more light. Lamps flashlights doesn't matter LOL.  More light = baking more humidity out of the air so WATCH your humidity its REALLY important.  Your plants don't look that bad man. Low temps High humidity makes for pests and disease but they love it. The pests strips with the vents seem like gold but they just hide the problem. In your case with a grow tent STACK them.  they arent cheap and last a month but they can abate a gnat
     
  16.  
     
     
     
     
    Lol i've got roughly 1000 watts combined for my flowering chamber and my humidity is 20 - 30.
     
    For airflow I have a 6" high velocity inline fan drawing air through my cooltube out of the tent and out  a window. Oscillating fan on bottom and orbital fan on top on and off every 15 mins 24 / 7. The orbital i just added today. Had it forever and finally managed to rig it up. Ive also got a 6" fan on half speed connected to a carbon filter in the room outside vented out the window.
     
    I made the decision to transplant up too 7 gal smart pots (up from 3 gal regular pots)...4 weeks into flower...  did 50 /50 ffof and perlite had just enough lying around to get me by. They were most certainly becoming rootbound. One that wouldnt flower is starting to produce buds now! While the other one i was having issues with is slowly making its way back to health after a flush and transplant. It is Also showing signs of budding but not as much. We'll see as the week progresses because i only transplanted 3 days ago, but im feeling like this is the right thing to do. The 2 Stragglers will get extra flowering. My caregiver was hell bent on my tiny pots being my issue for all my plants so lets see! :) The others are budding nicely, but ive got yellowing leaves n shit dying all over, im hoping this transplant will resolve it as well.. I may just continue with straight water for a little while to help get me back to normal... If not just finish off with it if the ffof will carry them.  
     
    Havent seen any bugs at all since i put the NPS in along with the occasional dunk. still need to top em off with perlite or something to keep them away lol.
     
    I've been lazy with the journal lately, but ill upload some pics on both that and on here tomorrow. Lately Ive been researching and getting into making beer, wine, and mead. Gona order up some supplies and give it a go. 
     
  17. use less Nitrogen....they get SOME N in flower. N ratio in flowering is less than 1. I say WAY less than one.  Withhold that shit completely until it shows a defiency. then maybe it gets some
     
  18. Marking this one solved, seeing some nice progressive bud growth in the ones i was having issues with 
     
     Heres one
     
    20150311_145811.jpg
     
    And the other. Now budding, but not as fast. Mb because of the flushing? 
     
    20150311_145733.jpg
     
    A Nice flush on one and a good upgrade in pots and soil seems to be doing the trick. As for the bugs, i havent seen one in a while. I'll smoke to that. Harvest should be decent after all. Here's some of the plants that are doing okay..
     
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    20150311_145946.jpg
     
    20150311_145941.jpg
     
    20150311_145834.jpg
     
     
    Thanks everyone! 
     
     
     
     
  19. Congrats! Why don't you have any fresh air coming into the room? You are only sucking air out of the room and leaving the plants air deprived.
     
  20.  
    Yea im still trying to figure out how to get fresh air in there. Right now its just passive. I removed a lot of the drop ceiling preparing for some changes which allowed for some more passive airflow. Think its not enough? I could always have an intake coming from the window but my exhaust is also  pumping out that same window... If you want, hop on over to my journal and we can discuss it there.
     

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