Perfect light schedule for photo , veg and flower?

For photos you'll either veg with 18 on and 6 off, or you could veg 24 on for constant growth. And veg until your heart's content - 2 weeks, 4 weeks, 12 months...its all up to you.

Whenever you decide you're ready for flowering, go 12 on 12 off. Flowering will officially start and then, depending on genetics, you'll harvest roughly 50-80 days later.

This was just Photos 101

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With the photo strains, keep them lit 24/7 until you get ready to flower them. You don't have to worry about timers, etc., like that and even though lots of people will tell you to give them some dark time, I've tried it and couldn't tell any difference. We run veg lighting 24/7. Start them in small containers...Solo cups work great, and leave them in those until the plant grows wider and taller than the cup it's growing in. From the cups, we go to 1 gal. pots and they stay in those until I get them the size to pot up into the 7 gal. containers we flower in. Basically, you get faster foliage production by starting the plant off in a small container and repotting when they get large enough instead of starting the seedling out in a huge container of soil with the intent of leaving it in that until harvest. We generally veg for 10 weeks or so and a couple of weeks before putting them into flower, I repot them up into the big containers for flower and this gives them time to re-establish their roots and grow a bit before putting them in for flower. Your yield depends on the quality and wattage of flower lighting. Make sure the light you have can actually support two plants because flowering two with a light that can't handle it only robs from both. Lighting is the key to getting the optimal harvest out of each plant. I know you're not planning on it, but going with some high quality formulated grow soil would be a good idea. Simply because the mix is perfect and it contains everything in it they need to flourish for the first several weeks without you having to think about feeding. Actually, we use very little nutrients in our plants other than what comes in the soil we grow with (Roots Original) because they just simply don't have to have it. Nutes are just plant food and though they are important in the growth of the plant, are not the element that determines how large a plant you get or how big your buds are in the end.....all that is light.

I've never grown the autos before and have no intention to at the moment because we grow for weight and you just can't convince me you can get more off a plant that is rushed through it's life cycles than you can one that is given time to mature and produce. You care for them the same way....as far as I know, as you do the photo strains. Never water till the container is light as a feather as wet/dry cycles keep the plant healthy...another good reason for having a superior soil mix for them to grow in.

But if you've been growing for 7 months, you should already have the basics down. But the key to any indoor grow is light since we're attempting to mimic the sun. Man has nothing that will even come close to touching it so you have to really over-kill with lighting when flowering inside. The light has to have enough wattage to force the plant to produce. Your growing Kush which is an indica and is short/bushy plant anyway, so those are easier to cover with a light since they don't get so tall. But light and plant should be as close as possible without risk of light burn, to get the biggest yield from each. If you have to raise the light to cover 2 plants, both suffer and are robbed of light. They also need plenty of space during flower so light can penetrate the canopy of the plant. We put tomato cages on ours when they go into flower. I don't crowd all the tops up inside the cage but use jute twine to support the buds and tie to the cage. Hope some of this helps. I used to do medical transcription so I type like the wind. Every time I respond it ends up looking like a book. LOL Best of luck and I'm sure you'll be fine. TWW