Ordering nutes and ph tester

Discussion in 'Growing Marijuana Indoors' started by frankie b high, Aug 10, 2012.

  1. [quote name='"frankie b high"']Just ordered the GH go box.. You all happy now? Lol[/quote]

    Very happy!

    And no. You don't need any pH equipment at all. The organics do all your heavy lifting.

    You are set up great now. Glad you were able to make the change! Feel free to pester me :)
     
  2. Ok well here comes the pestering lol. so let me get this right? I don't even have to check my tap water using these nutes? What about if I'm using water only? Or should I feed every time with these nutes? Even at seedling stage? I've just been reading on here to wait anywhere from 2 weeks to a month to give them food and to just make sure my ph is on point.
     

  3. General hydro is good stuff i hear as well.I dont think it has auto PH though.

    Seedlings do not feed anything for atleast 2-3 weeks min.They have enough stored energy ect for that easily.Even a month.

    And always start at 1/2 or even 1/4 the dose the bottle says.
     
  4. [quote name='"frankie b high"']Ok well here comes the pestering lol. so let me get this right? I don't even have to check my tap water using these nutes? What about if I'm using water only? Or should I feed every time with these nutes? Even at seedling stage? I've just been reading on here to wait anywhere from 2 weeks to a month to give them food and to just make sure my ph is on point.[/quote]

    I mean... If you live in Phoenix, or Los Angeles, or really any large metropolitan that has to import/steal water from other places then you are probably subjected to recycled waste treatment water. The tap water in southern California is HORRENDOUS, containing everything from birth control hormones to levels of hexavalent chromium (Erin Brochovich) in excess of 7,000x the national safe level. Your water could be trash depending on where you live.

    I live in the Santa Cruz mtns and rely on a watershed of well and reservoir water. The natural limestone in the area contributes quite a bit of hardness to my tap, it comes out around 0.5ec. When I lived outside of Portland Oregon the watershed situation was very similar but there was no naturally occurring limestone in the hills so my water there was rather soft, around a 0.07EC.

    An EC reading only tells half the story. Your water report will provide you with the knowledge you need and understanding where your water comes from and what it is subjected to, be it natural filtering or chemical disinfecting, will help you better understand the quality of your water. The pH should be in the report.

    All tap water is treated with either chlorine or chloramine. These compounds will hurt your microbial population if they are not removed or dealt with. The nice thing about the GO line is that you can treat your water quickly with the diamond black humic acid and the CaMg+ which contains 10% fermented molasses. Add 1ml per gallon of each of these EVERY feeding/watering. In 30 minutes they will eliminate the chlorine compounds and provide you with water that won't hurt your microbes.

    The BioRoot is used right from the start. It is a mild 1-1-1 and even at 10ml per gallon won't hurt any seedlings. How much food to use, and when, depends mostly on the charge in the soil and the needs of the plant. Take it slow and don't push her hard. Nutrients are more like "vitamins" not food. The food that the plant uses to get bulky and gets energy from (like you and I do from a good old steak) is light, water, and air. The more food they get, and the bigger they are, the more vitamins they will require.

    Error on the side of caution and just keep everything light until the plant asks you for more by showing a natural deficiency. Then you can increase the nutrient strength to accommodate her needs better.

    Most of that pH nonsense applies to people who dump synthetic fertilizers (like miracle grow, advanced nutrients, or fox farms) into organic soil. Take a look around the Organic forum here and you will see different, better, advice regarding soil than you will ever get from the beginner or indoor forums. They have a kind of "if it comes in a bottle then it cannot be organic" purest attitude there. Just keep reading and learning and watching your plant.

    Right now your number one goal with that little seedling in that big planter is to nail the watering frequency. Little plants have little roots and need little water. That container is definitely capable of retaining enough moisture for that plant to survive on for quite some time. Get the wet/dry cycle working and once she is a bit bigger in a week or two you can get started with your full nutrient program.

    Rely on the feeding guide. The only product you can use the heavy feed suggestions on is the Bloom, and only when she is kicking ass and taking names deep into flowering.
     
  5. Man I would love to be able to grow organic. I just have limited space and don't have the storage or capabilities of brewing tea and keeping a shitload of bags everywhere without drawing suspicion. Thanks for the input. Love hearing everyone's take on it. So are the GH products pretty close to "organic" since they are in a bottle?
     
  6. [quote name='"frankie b high"']Man I would love to be able to grow organic. I just have limited space and don't have the storage or capabilities of brewing tea and keeping a shitload of bags everywhere without drawing suspicion. Thanks for the input. Love hearing everyone's take on it. So are the GH products pretty close to "organic" since they are in a bottle?[/quote]

    They are not synthetic. Most of the system is actually "Veganic" meaning that it is made completely from plants. It is a biologically active suspension that comes alive when added to water. I consider it organic enough for me.
     

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