i'm just about to sit down to read this: Teaming With Nutrients if you look above and see stevebomb's signature, you'll see a link to GiMiK's library of pdf's. there you will find Teaming with Microbes as well. i would put down the Rev's book and start flipping through these two instead. if you're interested in grokashi and probiotics, then check out The Unconventional Farmer website with instructions on how to make it yourself and other uses for the lacto serum along with information about other areas like vermicomposting, bokashi, all the way to cockroach composting.
mulch porn! one of my fenugreek is flowering oh and anyone who uses TM7 humic acid...how do i mix this stuff properly with water? it just wants to float! have a great weekend!
Hey Guys Just wondering I ordered \tClackamasCoots Style mix from buildasoilCan anyone tell me does te mix require any cooking time and if so how long before use Thanks much Trying to get back into organic soils instead of nutes
Lovely little flowers aren't they! When I used TM7 I would usually just put the scoop of powder into the chapin just like I do aloe powder and shake the crap out of it. You could also mix it with water in a mason jar and shake the crap out of that and then pour it into whatever you water with.
Stiggymata Not really. You can put the mixed soil into the containers you will plant in, water with an SST and let it sit a week before you plant, for peace of mind.
Im not sure if they fixed it or not but I think at one time there was some discrepent application rates on some of their packages. This was quite some time ago and discussed on another forum by Caan i believe. I think some said 1 tsp per gallon, when it's really 1/4 tsp per gallon. You don't want to over do it with this stuff!!! Solo
Got a link to the article? Would be curious to see how it impedes drainage. Do you agree with the article based on experience with your containers?
Stevebomb, I have the 4" one, and I think it's a POS honestly. I won't waste my money on one again. Dunno about the larger sizes. I have a phresh 6" coming along with a hurricane fan to replace mine. I switched from a 6" that I thought was getting too heavy, to the 4" in my 4x4 tent. It's only hooked to a 240 cfm duct fan. As soon as I hooked it up I could smell neem meal when I watered.
Brb... You were given Ms Noobs link already. Here's a thread I made to try and encourage photos over information. These kind of take a visual which was the prime purpose in the thread. I'd still like to see more participation, but at the same time it is a simple concept etc... http://forum.grasscity.com/index.php?/topic/1361336-Post-your-SIP...er
That's quite a huge mistake, i.e. 1 tsp. vs 1/4 tsp. Especially on this specific product given the fact that the 7 micronutrients are chelated and ready for absorption or adsorption. On a general note about BioAg, the prices on their products have dropped to insane low levels. When I first began using their humic acid about 8 years back the price for 100 grams was around $15.00 (delivered price) so that meant that 1 gallon of solution was costing $.15 each. Pretty cheap I thought. When they signed a deal with the behemoth grow store suppliers to carry about 4 of their products, the humic acid dropped to about $12.00 before any good dude discount was deducted. So now we were at $.12 per gallon. Recently the organic farm store in Portland, Concentrates, began to carry BioAg's humic and fulvic acids. The price on the humic acid is $14.75 for 300 grams = $.05 per gram/gallon. If you buy the 5 lb. pack it's down to $.015 per gallon. The price on BioAg's fulvic acid is down to $36.00 per gallon. For years I paid $65.00 buying direct. Good times indeed! CC
Wow. Those are some killer prices. I'm out of FulPower and been putting off buying it but I can't anymore. Cheapest I can find is $50 a gallon on amazon. Solo
Solo $50.00 is a good deal given the benefit. If you're going to be starting seeds you want to mix BioAg Ful Power @ 1 - 100 ratio then soak your seeds until they crack and you can see the beginnings of the emerging tap-root. Only use fulvic acid and nothing else. This sets the entire stage for higher yield potential. HTH CC
Is two months of the CC kit cooking going to hurt anything? I'm trying to get a cover crop for it but for now I've been misting it with molasses water every couple days. My Organic, LED, Autoflower grow! http://forum.grasscity.com/index.php?/topic/1364334-NA%27s-grow-journal
Hmmm. Interesting. I've always done a 24 hr soak per their recommended rates but always put straight into soil. Never waited for them to crack. Thanks for the tip. I've actually been gifted some older landrace genetics that I expect to be tricky to pop. I'm going to be relying of FulPower to make it happen. Chiang Mai Thai and jahwis(sp?) Joy from Ghana. Should be interesting assuming they make it here lol. Solo
Nope. Only better. Allowing the soil to cycle a bit is preferred. The cover crop will help get things going as well. Your plants should love it. Solo
Danks for the quick reply bluejay. I ended up reamending the 10s with 50% the recommended amount for everything except the rock dust, added in a couple huge scoops of fresh compost and enough aeration to balance it out, plus added a total of 8 cups ground up 6-row malt. I actually mixed 4 cups into the 'new' mix and forgot when reamending to add the malt so I just hand stirred 2 more cups each into each of the 30s. Glad I'm no tilling at these soil volumes, and glad I brought all my 10s with me or it woulda been a very painful mix for me! Some of the old mix was very dry so I used a bunch of soap nut and horse chestnut (alternating gallons) to get it closer to ideal and then filled the containers. Anyone ever noticed anything negative from using high levels of saponins to rehydrate?
Solo The usual approach to germinating cannabis seeds as promoted on weed boards is baffling. Not only is it completely out of the norm of growing plants it lacks the basic common sense factor. Seed germination is 100% a process of enzyme activity which begins when a seed is fully hydrated. We only have to look at how barley and other grains are germinated for the malting process, i.e. hydration to a specific level which activates the internal enzymes created by the host plant and when planted into a soil with good tilth, the enzymes in the soil causes changes in specific enzymes allowing the tap root to develop. Why anyone would soak seeds on paper towels is beyond my rudimentary understanding how seeds have worked for almost 400 million years. Fulvic acid is a catalyst of enzymes (among other things) and what fulvic acid is NOT is concentrated humic acid or some of the other silliness posted on weed boards. For starting old seeds of any type, soaking them in a fulvic acid solution will give you a much higher rate of germination. VOE CC
But you wait until they actually crack, correct? Thats the step I've been skipping. Do you handle them with tweezers or something after they've cracked? Solo