Need help with spots on leaves and discolouration

Discussion in 'Sick Plants and Problems' started by bdm80, Nov 28, 2011.

  1. type of medium; soil or hydro? soil.
    What brand and type of soil? Hortibec.
    Indoors or outdoors? Indoors.
    What strain? Exodus Cheese.
    How old are the plants? 3 weeks.
    What type of lights and how many watts? MH 400w super lumen setting.
    How far from the lights? 20"
    What is your watering frequency and source of water? when the soil is dry and tap water.
    What, how much and when was it fed? NPK? it has had the grotek Grow.
    What is the medium/runoff pH and PPM if in hydro?
    What are the temps and humidity in the room? 24.3C and 33% humidity.
    Any bugs? Look real close. there are no bugs.



  2. does anyone have any input that can help me?
  3. #3 MiGrower2, Nov 29, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 29, 2011
    BDM, Sure I will give it A go. First I see you left the PH details blank. Do you know the PH of soil and runoff. Since you did not mention PH I think you got a PH problems that is creating def. in phosp. and calcium. Both of them get locked out with PH's below 6. I know I had all sorts of problems till I straightened out my PH. With the right PH it is easier to fix def. Without the PH being right good luck fixing your girls. Thats just my opinion but I am baked so you decide. Also if you are using tap I hope you let it set out overnight. Have a good day. Mi2 :cool::smoke::smoke:
  4. if my pot is a 1 piece how to i test the run off?
  5. bdm, you should have some drain holes in your pot. If not take an awl or screwdriver and make some. Then when you water/feed you can test the "run off" water that comes out of the pot. Still Baked. Mi2 :smoke:
  6. tested the ph of my water source its 7.5
  7. hello bdm, you need to get your water ph down. Man your plants are looking good if you get your ph under control you got something going on. Here is a link you should read . That whole section has alot of helpful info. Happy Reading. Mi2 :smoke:
  8. thank you i am currently feeding my plants water with a ph of 6.5 but for some reason its saying my ph of my soil is 5.4
  9. #9 MiGrower2, Dec 1, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 1, 2011
    thats the ph of your soil then, 5.5 you need to raise the ph of your soil. Add some lime to your water to help raise the soil ph plus its a buffering agent to help ph. or flush your plant a little then feed with 8.0 ph water to try to bring your soil ph up. there is alot of options for you. I suggest you read the ph thread. just click on the "read" in my previous post. You really need some lime. You really need to transplant to into different pots if you can also. Mi2
  10. just to let you know 5.4 is the runoff ph of my soil
  11. #11 MiGrower2, Dec 2, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 2, 2011
    Thats what your problem is. you can add some dolomite lime or hydrated lime (at local lawn & garden/grow shop) to raise the ph of soil. Hydrated lime is like a powder and it is harder to use or dial in. Dolomite lime works slower but is safer to use. READ I am no expert but If you got more questions pm me and I will try to answer or point you in the right direction. OSUBuckeyes wrote a good post about dolomite and hydrated lime but I can not find right now. You could probably pm him and ask him.. Good luck and I will say one thing, with correct soil ph growing weed is so much easier. I had all sorts of problems with my plants till I learned all about ph. Good luck. I posted another link about ph and lime. READ You can also use the search feature. Just put "dolomite lime" in the search box for the forums and all the post it shows will have something about the search term. Good Day. MI2 :smoke:
  12. Hey bdm80, here you go......

    powdered dolomitic lime works quickly, but not as quickly as hydrated lime.

    hydrated lime is basically a "quick fix" of limestone. it has been pre hydrated and buffered to work instantaneously. although it does work well, unlike powdered dolomitic lime it leeches very easily.

    so, if you have a ca/mg deficiency, adding hydrated lime would be the best to quickly combat the deficiency.

    where as powdered dolomitic lime breaks down faster than granulated lime, but still holds in the soil and isnt as readilly available for your plants.

    so heres the message: if you want to correct a ca/mg deficiency with lime, use hydrated lime.

    if you want to balance out the pH of your soil (as well as supplying ca/mg for a decent ammount of time), go with powdered dolomite lime. Hope this helps. Have Good Day. MI2 :smoke:
  13. i got dolomite lime but its in little tiny pellets
  14. #14 MiGrower2, Dec 3, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 3, 2011
    I believe I would flush your plant and then crush some pellets and top dress your soil with it. then I would water with ph'ed water at 7.0 or 7.5 once or twice and the dolomite lime will soak into the soil to raise it's ph. The go back to watering with ph 6.4-6.8. I use hydrated lime so I do not know the amount of pellets to use. but do not feed anymore till you get ph right or you will have a never ending fight trying to fix def.'s.
    I use one tsp of hydrated lime for gal of water so you probably do not need to crush a lot of pellets. also remember dolomite lime takes longer to work so it may take a few waterings before ph is right. you could feed lightly when your ph is closer to 6.4-6.8 then full feeding when ph is right and watch your healthy plant grow. peace and happy growing. MI2 :smoke:
  15. granulated dolomitic lime works best after bieng composted over winter.

    obviously, you dont have the time for that. try to to take it back to the store and trade it in for the powdered kind. granular & powdered should be at the same price - around $6 for 40 lbs. if anybody asks, say you have alot of oak trees & you need it to balance out the pH on your lawn. say granular wont work quick enough. thats really getting into paranoid stoner detail :smoke: but for real though, idk if you care about your lawn but that stuff makes it look great (just make sure you know the pH of your soil before you go adding it)

    you should manually grind up the granular for quickest results, if you decide to keep it that is. a pestle & mortar work great, but it takes forever. putting it in a freezer bag and crushing it all thoroughly can do the trick. but when i say thorough, im not shitting. i mean THOROUGH. have fun pounding for 45 minutes with a tamper! :bongin:

    thanks migrower2
  16. thank you alot, and i find the blender works best :p
  17. hi just an update its been a day since i gave it dolomite lime alot of the leaves on the plant died and its still not looking good here are some photos

  18. I can't find the powdered kind either, I put a peice of carpet over it on the garage floor and wack the crap out of it with a maul...makes it powder fine :)

    I also did that with a huge variety of 'other' rocks to add the dust to my soil, which I reuse. Marble, granite, onyx, jasper, sandstone...tons of pieces from a rock shop and a landscaping place. Rocks help anchor fungal strands in the matrix, and fungal strands are what move your phosphorous around in the soil for plant uptake.
  19. does anyone konw what deficiency this is?
  20. #20 Phytosapien, Dec 5, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 5, 2011
    What's your pH at now? It's probably the most important piece of information for someone trying to diagnose your problem. For all we know, you're still experiencing nutrient lockout. I don't know how quickly dolomite lime is supposed to help you fix your pH problems, but at least one person in this thread has already told you that it may take a couple waterings before you'll notice any real changes:

    Chill, man, and give your plants a chance to heal. Two days is probably not enough time.

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