indoor soil and ph question

How much does Salmon Kush go for anyway.

 

^ what does he mean?

But you should be fine if ph is good as Lin as you are measuring nutes right.

 

Testing the PH,and getting nute burn arent really connected.You want a PPM meter to test your water for nute levels.

If you got nute burn flush,and dont feed for awhile.Until the plant recovers for a bit.You should not feed until the plant shows signs of needing to be fed IMO.

Then next time you do feed use 1/4-1/2 strenght.Always use less then the bottle says to use.Especially on small plants,or new strains.Because some weed will love nutes,and some dont hardly need any.

 

Forcing more nutes then the plant needs will give you less crystals bud.Slow growth,and overall ruin a nice plant.

 

Actually, they very often are.

The pH affects the plant's ability to uptake nutrients -- if the pH is out of range then the plant cannot uptake the nute, even if the soil is chock full of them. So the grower ends up seeing a deficiency and so adds even more nutes, and yes that can bring the level up so high that it burns the roots. In addition, certain nutes have a lock-step relationship such that if your pH causes one to be locked out then another will be over-absorbed, which can burn the whole plant. That is why whenever someone posts about possible nute burn the first question back to him should be "what's your pH?"

I agree that less is more, don't push the nutes hard that won't get you the results you want. Give less than the manufacturer recommendation.

 

The way he wrote the question suggested he thought PH was how much nutes was in his water.


Which is why I explained he wanted a PPM meter.Technically your right in a way yes,but your just nit picking what I said in the end.

 

1/4 to 1/2 strength of nutrients and ph the to 6.2 before feeding it to plants in soil dont even bother testing your run off if you ph the water before feeding them. Ph is everything my friend if you don't have the right Ph your plants are bound to suffer. If you need to flush cause of nute burn make sure the water is Ph'ed and run water through it till your pulling out excess water from the bottom and then feed it with nutes next watering.

 

Order a PPM meter form ebay is all I can think of.

Mocakes is right best to stay between 6.0-6.5



In the germination/seedling/ and vegetative phase of growth MJ will do very well at a PH range of 5.5 to 6.5. You also hear of coco users maintaining their PH at about 6 but the fact is that even coco will do well for the first 3 phases of growth at the same PH. Although potting mixes have less problems with nutrient PH lockout than outdoor soil, for maximum flower development/weight/size/ and vigor your PH should be above 6 and at or below 6.5 in the flowering stage. The reason for this is that the most important nutrient P(phosphorus) in flowering is easily absorbed and assimilated by the plants in the 6 to 6.5 range(its actually higher than 6.5 but we start to run into micro nutrient availability above 6.55). Your plants will do fine from 5.5 to 6.5 but for the best bud development in flowering it needs to be above 6 and below 6.5. Hope the info helps.

 

Not nitpicking -- probably two-thirds of newbies coming on here with a "nute problem" turns out they have a pH problem, that's way more than "aren't really connected."

Let's say I'm losing weight even though I'm eating like a horse. The doctor says there's an imbalance in my digestive system that is preventing my body from absorbing the nutrients out of what I eat. So until that imbalance is addressed, no matter how much more I stuff myself I still will lose weight, and I'll cause myself other health problems as well from over-eating. Cause-and-effect most certainly are "connected".

 

Your pH numbers sound weird, but to take them at face value your runoff is perfect, if that's the case don't adjust.

 

I simply disagree.Your over exagerating just to try,and look more right.

The majority of newbies get nute burn because they think more food = more bud.Or they see lower leaf defoliation which is normal,but they dont realize its normal,and feed.

Your right ther can be a connection.

However I didnt PH my water for a long time when I was noob,and never had a burn issue from PH lockout.

Do some people have PH issues that seems similar to burn,or causes burn?Yes.

Do I think 2/3 of noobs burn their plants through PH lockout?

Hardly.

Even typing it makes me feel stupid.

 

I suggested lowering the ph gradually so you don't shock the root system since its what your worrying about but I promise you 6.2 is better for uptake of all the nutrients rather than some. Maybe start lowering by a ph or two until you get to 6.2. MJ are not as delicate as people make they out to be

 

Dolomite lime is used as a pH stabilizer with a neutral pH of 7 when added to soil. Basically it neutralizes your soil to a pH of 7. It is high in magnesium and calcium. Next time you start a new cycle put the dolomite lime in your soil until you get a neutral reading of 7. Then you will need to PH test your water EVERY time you water!! Make sure you are between 6.3 and 6.5 for budding. It's a lot easier to raise your PH then to lower it. Adjust your soil pH slowly over several days time, and check pH often as you go. Radical changes in pH may cause osmotic shock and damage to the roots.