i need advice on if my plants are sick or not?

Discussion in 'Sick Plants and Problems' started by pitbulljd900, Apr 2, 2016.

  1. one of them started to lean bad and others look droop.
    but i cant tell if they are healthy or not?
    that why i asking everyone for help.
    they are 5 week old
    foxfarm ocean and happy fog soil.
    nutrients: cal/mag and seaweed and big grow and grow.
    lights: 2x mars 300
    we gave them nutrients on Monday and gave them water on friday. nothing else.
    so please tell me how can help my babies out?[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

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  2. look like over water? what's temp? something is wrong. check temp and how frequent of watering
    oh and some plants look burned? how close is the light and how much nute u give em?

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  3. What is your water source; RO, city, well? Do you adjust for pH? Are these from seed or cuts? I honestly see several issues that could cause this; such as: over watering, over feeding, etc... In my experience I'd say it is one or both of the first mentioned(over watering, over feeding). I have noticed this to occur when municipal water sources are used. Most use Chloramine now rather than Chlorine which is not as easy to bubble off or allow to dissipate by leaving it set out. If you are using well water, then chances are it is what I listed above. pH problems seldom show these signs, taco leaf and clawing of the blades is more typical in pH problems.
  4. city water and ph level was 6.5 and 1 teaspoon of seaweed ans cal mag and big grow and grow
  5. temp was 73 hum and indoor: 70-78
  6. does that answer all your questions
  7. Yes. Do you allow your water to set for a few days? Try getting a small air pump w/ hose and air stone and place it into a 5 gl bucket full of tap water and let it bubble off for 24-36 hours before adding nutrients. City water can vary drastically in PPM's which can cause a lot of problems. Your temps are spot on, and your pH is in the proper range. Watch how often you water, make sure you wait until the plant actually needs it rather than just doing a set water schedule, as the plant grows the watering times will change. Back off a bit on the nutrients, try going your regular feeding ratio, then just water and ca/mag, then just water.
  8. and i added two fan in there
  9. can i just buy a filtration system for my sink?
  10. i only water them when the soil is dry. When I do water I water til water comes out the bottom and stop
  11. You don't want to use heavily filtered water....from the sink or elsewhere. There are actually valuable micronutrients in tap water that the plants need and use. People who use heavily filtered water tend to get weird deficiencies that you don't see normally. I've been using tap water for years....but I'm in the U.S. now. No sitting out for 24 to 36 hours and no problems. From what my research has shown, there just isn't enough chloramine in tap water to do damage to your plants. If there was, I would've seen it by now since I've been using nothing but for several years now. As I understand it, it's not the same way in EU and other places. I keep a EC/TDS tester handy and constantly test my ppm's...which for the most part are pretty low compared to many numbers I've seen posted by others. I keep a very good pH tester too and check my tap water each time I draw some for watering my plants with. If you're using one of those cheapo pH meters that run about $12.99 on Amazon and Ebay, you're staking your grow on an unreliable instrument. Those things don't work right 99% of the time...if they work at all. A good pH tester will run $60+. I just bought a new Blue Lab the other day and paid about $90 for it, but dang that thing is the Cadillac of pH testers. It works fast and it's right. pH is a big deal to the health of the plants, so it's imperative that you know for sure you're in the right range. So don't depend on one of those cheap pH testers for your values.

    You say you only water when your plants are dry. What do you use to determine that your plants are dry...all the way down to the bottom of the pot and, most importantly, around the root ball itself? Lifting the pot and feeling for weight OR using a moisture probe are about the best ways I know to do it. It looks like your plants could use an up pot from what I can see in the pics. When the plant itself gets wider and taller than the container it's growing in, that usually means is slightly root bound....which is what you want before you transplant. Giving them a new fresh pot of soil should perk them right back up. LEDs also burn hotter to these plants than hps or HID or CFLs...for some reason. When you use them, you have to hang them high and lower them as the plants can take it. This could be a myriad of things, but I suspect it's a combination of several different things going on. They're not in too bad a shape and I believe, if you'll repot them and water them in with some good pH'd water, toss them back under the light and they should straighten out. TWW
  12. Im in the us too, so I'll keep with the tap. Much appreciate the wisdom
  13. [​IMG]
    check this out
  14. #14 MrRayLPO, Apr 3, 2016
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2016

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