Grower's Secret

Discussion in 'Growing Organic Marijuana' started by Perpetual Burn, Oct 26, 2012.

  1. So, in my quest to build the best soil in Tahoe, I came across these products in one of the shops by a company called Grower's Secret.

    Is anyone familiar with these products? They look pretty sweet... I'm interested in their ELEMENTS...

    Grower's Secret ELEMENTS

    Advanced Blend: Humic, Fulvic,
    and Amino Acids + Kelp Soluble Powder
    Azomite Flowable Micronized Powder
    Endo Mycorrhizae Flowable Micronized Powder
    Endo/Ecto Mycorrhizae + Bacteria Flowable Micronized Powder
    Fulvic Acid Soluble Powder
    Grower's Secret Nitrogen Soluble Micronized Powder
    Gypsum Flowable Micronized Powder
    Humic Acid Soluble Micronized Powder
    Kelp Soluble Powder
    Limestone + Calcium Flowable Micronized Powder
    Magnesium Sulfate Soluble Crystal
    Potash Soluble Crystal
    Silica Flowable Micronized Powder
    Soft Rock Phosphate For Soil Granular
    Worm Castings Soluble Powder
    Zeolite For Soil Granular

    The only problem is they don't tell you how much to use or even how much is in each product. I assume it's just raw 100% whatever they say it is.

    I'm considering using some of their endo/ecto+bacteria, Humic, Kelp, and maybe their phosphate and worm castings (but it's very fine/dense) along with some bone, blood and cottonseed meal... but I'm not really sure how much to use.

    These look like some nice products... but they need to step up their labeling game. What do you guys think?
     
  2. #2 InTheGarden, Oct 27, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 28, 2012
    1) stay away from cottonseed meal. It's highly acidic and cotton is heavily sprayed with pesticides and herbicides (it's the most heavily sprayed crop).

    Honestly, with things like kelp, alfalfa, bone, blood meals, etc., you should buy based on price. Idk what the price is on these products, buy I have a sneaking suspicion it's far more than what you'd pay at the feed store. And their kelp meal is no different than anyone elses's, it all comes from the same source and is just repackaged under their label. The blood meal is scraped off the same slaughterhouse floor. So hit up a feed store and buy the same stuff at a better price. ;)

    I just saw that their kelp is a soluble powder. Kelp meal is far superior to any kelp powders or extracts (not to mention cheaper).

    Endo mycorrhizae is the only type that forms symbiosis with cannabis (ecto doesn't). For your humic and mycorrhizal needs, I'd suggest you look into Bio Ag. (bioag.com). Their Ful-Humix and VAM endo mycorrhizae mix are top-notch products. :wave:
     
  3. $367 :eek:







    :hide:

    A pound of 16 items for $367 = $22.94 per lb.
    I literally almost passed out.
     
  4. #4 Izzy Mandelbaum, Oct 28, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 28, 2012
    Dude, most items on that list can be bought for less than $1 per pound. That is when you are buying large quantities. 50# sacks, usually but if you're shooting for 80 gallons of soil, you should be thinking big anyway.

    Advanced Blend - DK what this is
    Azomite - 50# like $30
    Endo Mycorrhizae Flowable Micronized Powder -$16 a #
    Endo/Ecto Mycorrhizae - $16 a pound when buying single pounds. don't need for cannabis
    Fulvic Acid powder - DK what fulvic powder is, mine is liquid.
    Grower's Secret Nitrogen - DK what the secret is
    Gypsum - 50# maybe $20
    Humic Acid - Depends what kind they offer. Probably not the good kind.
    Kelp - Meal is better, 50# maybe $75
    Limestone + Calcium - 50# maybe $20
    Magnesium Sulfate - 50# maybe $25
    Potash - 50# maybe $25
    Silica - DK
    Soft Rock Phosphate - 50# maybe $25
    Worm Castings - 50# maybe $30 - for the primo stuff
    Zeolite - 50# maybe $25
     
  5. For Izzy.....just in case:


    [​IMG]
     
  6. Carefull with gypsum, as I recall it also acts as a fungicide and would be Counterintuitive to use along with Mycorrhizae fungi. It is just Calcium and sulfur. Sulfur is needed in very tiny amounts and should be found in the worm castings and you already have an addition of calcium so I would say you should be fine without needing gypsum. Also the Ecto is for trees and shrubs, you should only need the endo.

    I would also scratch the silica off the list. one reason is pot doesn't really need it for anything, and after working with ceramics, long term exposure can cause problems with your lungs like asbestos does.

    Humic Acid and Fulvic Acid are chelating agents which means they fix micronutrients so they can be abosrbed by plants. I believe some people add these, I wouldn't know the rate but I don't think a large bag would be needed. You can use things like molassas since it also contains chelating agents. But im sure some people would disagree with me on that, I would sugest finding what works for you before making buy large amounts that you may not need.

    Soft Rock phosphate is slow release some peruvian bat guano is faster.

    hope this helps a little.
     
  7. I would also scratch the silica off the list. one reason is pot doesn't really need it for anything

    I've grown to love my silica and use it often. It makes an excellent emulsifier for neem oil and at the same time helps protect plants against heat/cold stress, drought, resistance to fungal diseases (powdery mildew) and insects, thickens structural cell walls, creating stronger branches/stems.

    I truly believe it helps.

    J
     
  8. [quote name='"jerry111165"']I would also scratch the silica off the list. one reason is pot doesn't really need it for anything

    I've grown to love my silica and use it often. It makes an excellent emulsifier for neem oil and at the same time helps protect plants against heat/cold stress, drought, resistance to fungal diseases (powdery mildew) and insects, thickens structural cell walls, creating stronger branches/stems.

    I truly believe it helps.

    J[/quote]

    I would also agree with this statement. My yields increased a notable amount once I introduced it to my regimen. I also do some crazy stem breaking and bending as well and it helps my stems beef up and heal much faster. I don't use any solid forms in soil just a tsp or so of protekt in plain water. But thanks for the tip on the emulsifier use. I had no idea it was good for that. I've been using Dr bronners soap and aloe juice.
     
  9. Considering this thread has been dormant for about 2yrs does anyone have any new information, feedback or experiences to share regarding the Grower's Secret products?


    After hearing all the rave reviews/feedback on the Grower's Secret Pro I went ahead & ordered a 4oz bottle, at only $18 on eBay I couldn't pass it up. From what I understand the main active ingredient is some kind of mushroom extract or enzyme (could someone clarify that please?) that acts as a growth enhancer for plants. It allegedly does this by making the nutrients you already use more bio-available to the plants. So its not actually a nutrient itself, but rather a supplement that you add to your existing nutrient regimen, making it work even better.


    I got the Grower's Secret Pro to use in conjunction with my nutrient line, which I'm a little indecisive on. You see, I was given the full Pro line from Nectar For The Gods, as well as some RAW Bloom all-in-one by NPK, both free samples to try from my local hydro shop. I will be doing a small SOG grow of Super Skunk from AMS, lighting will be either 400W or 600W DE HPS + 200W to 400W of supplemental LED's. Soil will be Oregon's Only Organics #4 (Nectar For The Gods soil) + Probiotic inoculants & Organic amendments (Recharge Natural Soil Conditioner, DIY Organic Compost, DIY Mineralized & Activated Bio-Char, Locally Sourced Worm Castings etc). Regardless of whatever nutrients I use I will also be implementing my custom, Broad-Spectrum, Bio-Diverse, Organic AACT's.
    So, considering what I'm working with & my goal, what nutrients should I use with my Grower's Secret Pro supplement? Should I use the Nectar Pro line? Should I use the RAW Bloom all-in-one? What about combining both the Nectar & the RAW together somehow? I mean, its a known fact that humans benefit more from a diverse diet vs someone who mainly eats, say meat & potatoes. So why wouldn't plants benefit more from a diversified nutrient regimen? What if I used the Nectar Pro for one feeding, then switched it to the RAW for the next feeding, and so on and so forth? This could very well be a terrible idea, or a great one, IDK? Someone please let me know your opinion on this & or what your recommendation for me is. Thanks for your time.

     


  10. stay away from bottled nutes, organic or not, free or otherwise. you are just wasting your time. do a little research into how to make your own soil and you will never have to visit the hydro shop again, while spending a fraction of the cost you would if you stayed with bottles.


    honestly, if this stuff was any good they wouldnt be giving it out free to everyone.



     

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