Gnats... Miracle Grow... PLEASE HELP

Discussion in 'Sick Plants and Problems' started by Cold Play, Nov 26, 2011.

  1. #1 Cold Play, Nov 26, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 27, 2011

    I removed my plants from the room. I sprayed an insecticide in the room. 24 hours later it seems like most of them are gone (I couldn't see any, anywhere). There were a couple on the ground with dysfunctional wings.
    I am purchasing/doing the following:

    - Pest Strips for remaining adults.
    - (mabye) Neem oil?
    - New better seedling soil (germinated fresh seeds as the 2 afghan didn't make it and the soil was awful)
    - Cleared all soil from the grow room (I had to throw out my 2/3 full bag of sea soil because it was open and not sealed so eggs could of gotten in there. (I still have another full bag).
    - Diatomaceous Earth on the surface.
    - Potato wedges on top to draw some out.
    - When the soil dry's use hydrogen peroxide?

    Anya advice?


     
  2. Search the keywords "neem drench" and "H202". Personally, I would do the H202 drench 1st, but wait until your soil dries out 1st
     
  3. From reading I find that some say certain things work and others say they dont and will harm the plant.

    Should I just kill my two small afghan kush? Also could their be a way to switch soil on my bigger plant?
     
  4. Pictures would help us diagnose your symptoms.
     
  5. miracle grow organic is not organic. OMRI means nothing in this context.

    They are producing many of the nutrient in questionable if not downright chemically hazardous fashion. MG reportedly contains a variety of crap from lumber mill residues to bits of rubber and plastic. other nuterients are sourced from factory farms and other murderous ventures that put the lives of hundreds of thousands of honest farmers to an end.

    A method we organiphiles like to employ when evaluating MG soils is to test the variety of qualitie at the lowed depot by slicing the bags open with your pocket switch blade, or cutting into the pallet boxes, This gives a good idea of the product value because of the extent to which it's worthless. Thanks, and c ya round GC organix
     
  6. nono i used miracle grow for the seedlings my main soil is Sea Soil it is a local soil but is too rich for the seedlings. The Sea Soil is the one that is organic
     
  7. OK and remember- it's easier to get away with testing soils at home lowe po than pickup free ties at nordstroms
     
  8. The Miracle Grow organic has already been proven to be infested with the gnat eggs when you buy it. I don't know if the make-up of it varies from region to region like other potting mixes sometimes do, but here it's basically a pine bark substrate with what looks to be chunks of cowshit and a little perlite. The PH runoff tests I've done showed a runoff of 4.8 to 5.2 when watering with a neutral 7.0 distilled water. I tried a run of cayenne peppers in it outdoors and it's the only time I've ever had a fungus gnat and root aphid problem.

    Aside from the medium being too acidic straight from the bag, it's also too hot for seedlings IMO. Chances are that you just transported gnat larvae into your Sea Soil upon transplant and you'll have to fry those little bastards before they get out of hand.
    Try mixing 1/2 cup of 3% hydrogen peroxide to 1 gallon of water, and apply after the soil dries out thoroughly. It worked well for me, as was recommended by OSUBuckeyes.
    In the future it would be wise to buy a product specific to seedlings like Jiffy mix, or you can make your own out of peat and perlite, maybe even throw about 10% of your local Sea soil in with it. For now, you have to get rid of those little gnat bastards.Hope this helps.
     
  9. #9 Cold Play, Nov 27, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 27, 2011
    I removed my plants from the room. I sprayed an insecticide in the room. 24 hours later it seems like most of them are gone (I couldn't see any, anywhere). There were a couple on the ground with dysfunctional wings.
    I am purchasing/doing the following:

    - Pest Strips for remaining adults.
    - (mabye) Neem oil?
    - New better seedling soil (germinated fresh seeds as the 2 afghan didn't make it and the soil was awful)
    - Cleared all soil from the grow room (I had to throw out my 2/3 full bag of sea soil because it was open and not sealed so eggs could of gotten in there. (I still have another full bag).
    - Diatomaceous Earth on the surface.
    - Potato wedges on top to draw some out.
    - When the soil dry's use hydrogen peroxide?


    While I fix this problem I am starting to veg 3 plants in my closet. I am going to veg them for 2 months in my closet if I can save my 1 month old pineapple express. If not I will veg in my closet under CFL's for 2 weeks while I make sure all the pests are gone.

    Can the NO Pest strips get 100% of the gnats? I really don't want this problem again.
     
  10. pest stickiess are a very ineffective way to get rid of fungus gnats. contrary to popular belief (and what your own two eyes will see,) the stickies are ONLY a way to monitor pest populations. you may see lots of gnats on the sticky after one day - for every gnat you catch on the paper multiply it by 10 - its a rough estimate of the fungus gnat population in the near area of that sticky. although you will kill some, at a 1:10 ratio you are only getting roughly 10% of the gnats. so you can use stickies, but its not gonna stop them.

    what insecticide did you spray?

    i havnt had too much success with neem and gnats. but get some neem, its great for keeping away other bugs.

    stay away from the potato wedges. giving them that just gives them an all you can eat buffet as well as a place to nest.

    mosquito dunks work great. they sell these at the home dePOT. so does Gnatrol (used more by MJ growers, although expensive.) its a biological way to control the gnats; fight nature with nature. it is 100% organic and OMRI listed. they contain a bacteria called bacillus thuringenisis, which rapidly infect fungus gnats, blackflies, and mosquitos. with 2 applications of the stuff you should see a near total eradication. the mosquito dunks are cheaper, and they come in a giant cube, but they work. make sure you get one with B. thuringenesis as the only active ingredient.

    i prefer to use a product called BotaniGuard. it contains the predator fungi Beauveria bassiana. B. bassiana infects soft bodied insects, and eats them from the inside out. its an amazing fungus that only eats bugs - perfectly safe to your plant! the insects it kills include grasshoppers, fungus gnats, aphids, spider mites, thrips, weevils, budworms, and it goes on and on and on and on........strangers.....waiting.......up and down the boulevard.... :smoke:


    DONT STOP BELIEVING!!!
     
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