Fungicides and Mycorrhizae

Discussion in 'Growing Organic Marijuana' started by momocalm420, Aug 7, 2010.

  1. Hello Organic Growers!

    I am almost 6 weeks into my first indoor grow and have yet done anything to treat my plants against pathogenic fungi or insects for that matter.

    I purchased a microbial fungicide, brand name "Actinovate", and the species is Streptomyces lydicus. Seeing how almost all plants are dependent upon mycorrhizae, it would seem odd to have a product that kills these fungi.

    This is my worry though, if this fungicide will damage my mycorrhizae. I gave my fresh seedlings a very dilute treatment of a mycorrhizae inoculant and a stronger treatment when I transplanted them into their pots.

    If root feeding is a bad idea, could I foliar spray? The package says not less than 10^7 "colonizing units" per gram, so what concentrations should I be using?

    Thanks for any advice,

    :wave:
     
  2. Just out of curiosity what are the reasons for applying a fungicide?

    Is there a problem you're trying to address perhaps?

    LD
     
  3. Hey Lumper,

    I guess preventative measures if nothing else. The plants look lush and green, but I have noticed a few spots on some plants that don't look like heat stress. I couldn't tell if they were some kind of rust or if it was from spidermites.

    Ill post a pic when the lights come on
     
  4. #4 LumperDawgz, Aug 7, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 7, 2010
    momocalm420

    I wasn't familiar with this product so I looked and peeked around and it would appear that applying this within the guidelines suggested by the manufacturer wouldn't do any damage to the mycorrhizae colonies nor the other beneficial fungi strains in a good soil.

    If you had concerns then applying a viable AACT a couple of days after the inoculating the root zone with the Streptomyces lydicus strain would remove all doubt. That would accomplish a number of things not the least of which would be to re-establish the beneficial colonies.

    Personally I think that there are some other methods to get the same result at a lower cost but that's just my take.

    Having said that, I've read a couple of other posts that you've made and you obviously are a science guy so let me add this piece for your consideration.

    It's known that the application of phosphoric acid 'dampens' the fungi colonies and in the case of hi-dosing with this specific acid it can, and will, greatly diminish the fungi colonies - particularly the mycorrhizae colonies to the point that they can be wiped out.

    Unfortunately, the addition of phosphoric acid is mandatory in the process of fermenting fish by-products to create fish hydrolysate and fish bone meal. It's also true that fish hydrolysate is one of the best foods for fungi - it's the yin and yang deal.

    Solution is fairly easily actually - after applying a fish hydrolysate and kelp extract, let it sit for a couple of days and then apply a viable AACT to reinvigorate the fungi colonies which by that time the acid has been partially modified by the microbes and so that the fungi can now take up the phosphorus in a form that is easily assimilated by the roots.

    HTH

    LD
     
  5. Thanks for the tips!
     
  6. I have heard that nettles are great when brewed as a tea as both a fungicide and as an insect repellant. Ufortunately I live in a city now far away from western washington...
     
  7. momocalm420

    Stinging nettle tea is one of the best sources of phosphorus, calcium, magnesium, et al. that you can use. In France there was a bottled fertilizer that was fermented stinging nettle.

    It's still widely used in Western Europe, Australia and in the US among hardcore biodynamic farmers.

    Comfrey is another plant that has an important role to play in an organic grow. Regardless of the plant being grown.

    LD
     

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