Finished this last night, took forever to purge. 12 grams RSO from 3oz Gigabud trim (3min soak through one coffee filter.) dark gold color and smells like delicious grapefruit!
Bubblegum Purpz, 9.5 weeks. Chopped today now that there is room in the drying area. Next project is a custom drying rack to hang branches on, lol.
Krunk did a great job breeding these. Got everything you could want, well, I would like a few more Oz’s per plant but overall one of my favorites.
Really happy with flower right now, been spraying 4x times a week now, and it’s really paying off with lush happy plants that pray all day! 2x IPM Monday & Thursday 2x Foliar feeds Wednesday (Tonic, LemonMint, Yucca) & Saturday (Kelp, HA, Silica, Yucca.) I spray veg and flower until 3rd week usually depending on bud development. Just sprayed these with Tonic, Silica, Yucca, LemonMint. Bubblegum Purpz
Looking stellar par usual there Prepper420. Your grow game is strong! Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
Yeah, those girls are lookin healthy. I'm inspired to try some foliar feeds on my next grow, which I should be starting in the next week or so. Going to do all autos this time. Now that the Aussie autumn is just down the track, the cooler temps should see better looking plants. My grow didn't look as healthy as it could have because of excessive heat in the tent. Also need to get my foliar feeding dialed in. You got a recipe for your foliars with amounts/ratios? And what kind of soil mix are you using Prepper?
Soil mix is 1/3 Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss, 1/3 EWC (homemade is best), 1/3 Aeration (Perilite in this case but Pumice is my favorite.) 10% Bio-char of the total volume. I measure everything by cubic foot. So 1 cu.ft of each thing mentioned above plus 2.1 gals of bio-char. Then I add 1 cup per cubic foot of CSPM and EWC, not aeration. Per cubic foot; 1 cup Kelp, oyster shell flour, crab meal, Neem/Karanja. 1/2 cup Gypsum, Alfalfa, Malted Barley Grain (Powdered) 2 cups Balsalt rock dust 1/4 cup green sand Foliar sprays Per gal; 2.5 ml Silica 10ml Kelp meal soaked (24hrs) and strained. 5ml Humic Acid 5ml Yucca Extract Tonic Spray 15ml Tonic 5ml Ritha (soap nuts) or Yucca. IPM 15ml Neem Oil 5ml Yucca Extract (emulsified together) Can add extras to this like Aloe Vera (which honestly could be added to every spray or just by itself.) Be careful adding EO’s to this, while you can, to much Oil based sprays can suffocate a plant. I love Spike Lavender which targets Spider Mite eggs and Peppermint which is straight up TOXIC AS FUCK to spider mites in general. I try to rotate my sprays and combos all the time to keep them guessing. And I think it helps keep me on my toes and not fall into lazy habits. If you miss just one fucking leaf...they’ll keep on rocking your world. Very important to DRENCH plants to the point of run off. I make my dehumidifier work lol, I spray everything, the walls, the floor gets soaked too.
I am super excited to start extracting my own herbs that I grow and incorporating them into my foliar sprays too. Like Spearmint and Lemon Balm.
Trying to make my own CalPhos from Egg Shells and Shilajit (Fulvic and Humic acids to break down the egg shells.). Will ferment this for 20days and see what it looks like! Broiled until browned. Added 400mg Shilajit to distilled warm water Powdered the egg shells in a blender and added it all to a mason jar. Everything I read online said to use a vinger or apple cider vinger, but that any acid should do. So I’m trying Shilajit out since I have lots of it!
What's up Prepper420. What's the benefit of making egg shells into into a foliar spray other than quicker absorption as opposed to just grinding them up to dust and adding them to your soil? I ask because I have seen this method and I am sure it works great but seems like more work than I would like to do. I was thinking about doing it but grinding up shells and top dressing seems to be working for me, plus I'm sure my worms love the grit. I'm not trying to say you should do it my way just curious on how egg shells work. Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
CalPhos isn’t a foliar spray far as I know. After it’s finished fermenting, I am going to dry it out into a powder and sprinkle it as a top dress beginning of flower. Maybe 2 tablespoons per pot to start out with. I bought some from BAS to try out. Normally I just air dry and crush my shells, then feed them through the worm farm, but even that way it will take over a year before it’s bio-available for plants, if not longer. The baking/panfrying and then the fermentation process breaks it down quickly and makes it available much faster.
@Prepper420 What do you use the green sand for in your soil mix? I have heard of it being used before but forget as to why. Also, how often do you apply EO's? I definitely want to start incorporating them into my IPM but do not want to risk suffocating any of my plants. Next, what does the Yucca add to the mix? Lastly, are some of the tonic's like you use available already mixed online? Just because I am switching to flower soon and won't have time to wait for anything to break down. I thought I remembered seeing something about that on the unconventional farmer but I could be mistaken.
Diversity of minerals! Green sand is added for its long term (3yrs) source of K Micronized Greensand contains about 10% total potash (0.2% soluble), along with iron, magnesium, silica and as many as 60 other slow-release trace minerals. Improves plant health and increase the soil’s capacity to retain water and nutrients permanently. Will also loosen heavy soils. Yucca brings more Saponins! Super high levels of Saponins which trigger a plants SAR, their defense system. Here are some comparisons of saponin levels in different materials. Alfalfa - 20,000 ppm Aloe Vera - 30,000 ppm Yucca Extract - 40,000 ppm Horse Chestnuts - 140,000 ppm Soap Nuts - 240,000 ppm Yucca extract is a natural surfactant or wetting agent. Yucca schidigera contains saponins, a soapy, steroidal-like substance that acts as a natural spreader/sticker for horticultural use. It only takes a little yucca extract to be effective. As little as 1/16th teaspoon will treat over 5 gallons of water. Yucca helps water and nutrients penetrate deeper into the root zone, and yucca’s natural cleaning action helps keep drip emitter lines from clogging. Surfactants like yucca extracts are great to add to foliar sprays. Water is a polar molecule; it holds a small positive charge on one side of the water molecule and a negative charge on the other. That’s why water beads up on a waxy surface. But the natural saponins in yucca extracts depolarize the water molecule, allowing foliar sprays to spread out more evenly on the waxy leaf surface. The thin film that is created covers a greater surface area on the leaf for better and more even absorption by the plant cells. Yucca in and of itself is also good for plants, helping with water and nutrient absorption and acting as a plant protection agent. For example, yucca extracts are taking the place of copper sulfate in much of Europe to help prevent and treat fungal diseases such as apple scab. Yucca offers a natural alternative to petroleum-based surfactants and chemical sprays, and it’s completely safe for the environment. Organic yucca extracts are also a valuable addition to compost teas and other microbial inoculants. Since yucca contains complex sugars, it is a stable carbon source for plant-growth-promoting microorganisms in the root zone. Microorganisms convey many benefits to plants, including the mineralization of organic matter, improved root growth and induced resistance to pests and disease. So over time and with continuous use, yucca will help stabilize soil pH, decrease soil compaction, and increase the availability of essential trace elements to the roots.
EO’s are pretty strong but don’t last long, especially under strong light. It’s important to spray any Oil based spray like EO’s and Neem after the lights are off. You can burn your leaves otherwise. I use 5ml EO per gal as a base ratio. You can add more if only using EO’s. I’ll use 5ml Peppermint, 5ml Spike Lavender (I wouldn’t go over 15ml of EO total per gal) Emulsified together with Yucca Extract in small blender. Then add to warm water in sprayer. Shake shake shake! Works greats, stays blended! Essential Oils as Green Pesticide Essential oil constituents are primarily lipophilic compounds that act as toxins, feeding deterrents and oviposition deterrents to a wide variety of insect-pests. In fact, pesticides derived from plant essential oils do have several important benefits. Due to their volatile nature, there is a much lower level of risk to the environment than with current synthetic pesticides. Predator, parasitoid and pollinator insect populations will be less impacted because of the minimal residual activity, making essential-oil-based pesticides compatible with integrated pest management programs. There are several examples of essential oils like that of rose (Rosa damascene), patchouli (Pogostemon patchouli), sandalwood (Santalum album), lavender (Lavendula officinalis), geranium (Pelargonium graveolens), etc. that are well known in perfumery and fragrance industry. Other essential oils such as lemon grass (Cimbopogon winteriana), Eulcalyptus globulus, rosemary (Rosemarinus officinalis), vetiver (Vetiveria zizanoides), clove (Eugenia caryophyllus) and thyme (Thymus vulgaris) are known for their pest control properties. While peppermint (Mentha piperita) repels ants, flies, lice and moths; pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium) wards off fleas, ants, lice, mosquitoes, ticks and moths. Spearmint (Mentha spicata) and basil (Ocimum basilicum) are also effective in warding off flies. Similarly, essential oil bearing plants like Artemesia vulgaris, Melaleuca leucadendron, Pelargonium ros- eum, Lavandula angustifolia, Mentha piperita, and Juniperus virginiana are also effective against various insects and fungal pathogens (Kordali et al., 2005). Citronella (Cymbopogon nardus) essential oil has been used for over fifty years both as an insect repellent and an animal repellent. Combining few drops each of citronella, lemon (Citrus limon), rose (Rosa damascena), lavender and basil essential oils with one liter of distilled water is effective to ward off indoor insect pests. The larvicidal activity of citronella oil has been mainly attributed to its major monoterpenic constituent citronellal (Zaridah et al., 2003). Diatomaceous Earth Is made from the fossilized remains of tiny, aquatic organisms called diatoms. Their skeletons are made of a natural substance called silica. In order to be effective as an insecticide, diatomaceous earth must be food-grade. It causes insects to dry out and die by absorbing the oils and fats from the cuticle of the insect's exoskeleton. It can kill any bug with an exoskeleton with sharp edges that are abrasive, speeding up the process. It remains effective as long as it is kept dry and undisturbed.