First grow autoflower hydro questions

Discussion in 'First Time Marijuana Growers' started by RoyalBluee, Aug 14, 2016.

  1. #1 RoyalBluee, Aug 14, 2016
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2016
    image.jpg image.jpg Hey so recently after circumstances I ended up getting into and learning about growing and decided to pick it Currently my setup is a 120x120x200 tent with a 600w HPS and the strain is heavyweight fast and vast.

    Im going to be using a wilma v2 XL 70L with clay pebbles for medium, I did some research on germination and decided to go with them in rock wool, currently they're in small cubes and it's been 3 days, I had a small look and I can see tap roots so that's given me hope that they're okay, so my questions are:

    1. Once a seedling breaks through, would it be okay to put it under a 600w light granted the light is fixed to the top of the tent

    2. How long should I leave the seedling before putting the small cube of rock wool into the bigger cube in the hydro

    3. When is the best time to start watering a seedling once it breaks through and when to start giving it nutes

    4. I've got Dutch pro original grow hydro a+b and wondering how much I should add for an auto flower in hydro, the bottle says 250ml per 100L and when to change the reservoir

    5. Also what's the best feeding schedule for them, I've read every 4 hours for 15 minutes with the wilma pump, and light cycle I've read is 12/12 or 18/6.

    Thankyou in advance!
     
  2. Rock wool is a hard medium to get right, but if you have already got the seeds in them I'll help as much as I can...

    1. You can but HPS isn't very good for the first few weeks. It tends to make seedlings stretch a lot. MH is a bit better but I prefer CFLs or other fluorescents for the first 3 weeks. I get much better growth, but they need to be kept very close. A 20w CFL per plant kept within a few inches works really well, but your 600w HPS will work if that's all you have. Are you able to dim it to a lower wattage?

    2. I wouldn't use rock wool at all, let alone put the starter cube in more rock wool. It holds on to too much water resulting in the roots being starved of oxygen. I prefer to start the seeds in paper towels and putting them directly in to the clay balls. They can't drown in those.

    If you still want to use rock wool then wait until you have several roots showing before you put it in to the clay balls, or indeed the bigger rock wool cubes.

    3. You need to water the rock wool cube only when it's dried out enough. This will vary depending on a lot of different criteria. So you will have to work this out for yourself. Don't let it sit there soaked and don't let it dry out.

    Start seeds with empty water and after about 4 days of good growth add some nutes to about 200ppm, then after a week bump up to 300ppm, then the following week try 400ppm. If growth is stunted for any reason, don't bump up the nute concentration.

    4. Buy a ppm or EC meter. You can't do hydro properly without one. With one, you won't have to worry about volumes of nutes, only the concentration. Keep the concentration correct all of the time and you won't need to empty out your reservoir much at all. I have done many auto grows without emptying the reservoir once. But it depends how big the reservoir is compared to how many and how big the plants are. Keep topping up the reservoir and adjusting the ppm when it needs it and you should be able to allow the plants to take up about 4 times the volume of the reservoir before you need to empty and replace the nutrient solution.

    5. I found 15 minutes on, then 45 minutes off, continually 24/0 works best for me. For autos I keep the lights at 24/0 all the time
     
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  3. Thankyou for the reply GoldGrower, yeah unfortunately i skimped by with this setup, only have the 600w HPS and not able to dim it.
     
  4. i use all dutchpro says 200-300 im half way through flower with period seeds an never used more than 200

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Grasscity Forum mobile app
     
  5. How many plants are you starting? Getting a few 20w+ CFLs is usually straightforward and cheap. But if you want to use the 600w instead, keep it at a distance so the seedlings are no hotter than 25°C. They will harden up after a couple of weeks and will withstand a few degrees higher, but don't let them go over 30°C even when they are big. An £2 aquarium thermometer with remote sensor works really well. You can dangle the sensor from the light or ceiling and let it hang just above the plants. This shows the hottest temperature that they are exposed to
     
  6. i've started 4 and 3 are currently coming through now, i'm heading to pick up hopefully some CFLs and a fan for the tent, thankyou for the tips, i'll add the thermometer to my list
     
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