What is your experience level? First Timer. Your Equipment: .1) Type and wattage of lights: 2 90W LED UFO's - 1 240W Blackstar LED Panel .2) Distance from tops?6" .3) Reflector type? Panel/UFO. .4) Is there a consistent fresh air supply? Yes. .5) Do you have an exhaust fan and a circulation fan: 1 Carbon Filter Fan/1 Tornado Fan blowing in a 180 degree turn at low setting. .6) What are the bulb wattages, kelvin ratings, and schedule? 420W - 20/4. Your medium: .7) Specific brand and type of soil, (coco, peat based soilless...) and anything you've added to it. (vermiculite, perlite, worm castings...) FFOS. .8) Size of container. 3G Pot. .9) Did you use peat pucks (or similar) to root clones or germinate seedlings? No. Your nutrients and water: 10) Source of water? (tap, bottled or filtered) What's it's ph befor adjusting? Tap, PH 6.8. 11) Method of checking water ph. (ph pen, test strips, aquarium test kit...) - Test Kit/Test Strips. 12) Method of adjusting water ph. (phosphoric acid, white vinegar, hydrated lime, PH Up...) - Haven't had to adjust Ph. 13) Specific brand and N-P-K ratio for each bottle. List dosages (quantity per gallon) and current feeding schedule. - Not feeding Nutes currently. 14) How often are you watering between feedings, and how much per watering? Not sure on exact water amount, I water every 30 - 48 hours. 15) Any additives or tea's? (Superthrive, CalMag, molasses, Mother's Earth...) No. 16) Are your ph levels stable, or do they fluctuate? Stable. 17) What is your ingoing water's ph? ...your runoff ph? Ingoing - 6.8 - Runoff - N/A, will update. 18) Do you foliar feed? If so, with what, how often, and at what time do you spray? Yes, a light spray with just plain water. Your growroom: 19) Indoors or outdoors? indoors 20) What size of closet, room or hut? Not sure exact size, decent. 21) What are the temps and humidity levels while lights are on? ...With lights off? Lights on: 82 - Lights off: 77 22) Have you seen signs of insects in the growroom? No. Your strain: 23) What strain are you growing? (Indica dominate or Sativa dom?) N/A. 24) From seeds or clones? Seed. 25) Is this an autoflower strain? No. Currently trying not to panic, and am just trying to figure out a answer. I know the many causes of Wilting can be over-watering, Root Rot, and PH lock-outs, and I am not quite sure what to look for on the matter. PH seems to be a steady 6.8ish, as you can see on all the info above Plant is about 9 - 10 weeks into VEG, 11" tall, from a bag-seed. Went from: To: In less then 3 days. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.
looks like it would survive if treated right. I would add 1-2'' of rich, slimy, vermicompost writhing with red wigglers and a 1/3 cup of kelp meal, this will send the worms into the soil "eating" the bad things and the kelp will assist cell division and recovery. This program works best if repeated once a week and if synthetic nutes are excluded from the mix. hence your milage may vary.
Is there a location I can buy all of that locally? or would I have to do a overnight shipping order from a website? I do not mind, I just need to know the right approach, not panicking, but would like to save her if I could. Should I continue to water her? Or lay off of watering for the time being? Same light cycle? Thanks man.
well, you don't want to let it dry out. that's for sure. especially when you add the compost, keeping it moist is a key to soil health. You can source the compost in many places. Independent nurseries, independent worm wranglers from craigl ist )they grow worms for compost, or tackle), the key is good compost, and you can also find a bagged soil likely- all of Coast of Maine's soils are compost -based, so if you pick up any COM product it will be the real deal as far as plant health and no-tinker- dummy proofing- just get the soil, add it to your plants or transplants, and water only... no synth nutes added. I highly recommend picking up their (vermi/other) compost. you can also visit the coast of maine website and see if they have a retailer near you. make some calls.
If you live in a big city then you most likely have a hydroponics store. None of cannabis growing stuff for the most part is located at lowes/home depot etc. You can mail order from amazon or a site like htgsupply.com.
I need to act preciously though, because by the looks of the plant after such a short period of time, it doesn't seem like it has much life in her. I also had a nute problem with another Auto that I am currently flushing, as the browning was spreading to the leaves. What do you think the actual root of the problem is for the mom plant though? What do you think could have caused such a increased down-fall in such a short period of time? After reading hundreds of articles online with wilting plants, Many do not survive, and few actually live.
I have 2 local hydro stores that I have not yet visited. They are within a 20 minute driving range, maybe I should check there first. Problem is, I am going out of town for a week tomorrow, the plants are at my uncles and he will be doing all of the care for them. If I need to get these products, I need to either order them online so that he can have them accessible right to his house, or I need to go today and pick them up and deliver them to his house. Rhap - Do you suggest the same thing as him?
I would skip on the hydro store. Not much of use if a living healthy soil is the primary goal and you want the premier products to achieve this. from what I can tell the problem you are facing is not a genetic one, it is a soil health problem. that's why I recommended boosting your soil health with the suggestions I made about (ceasing synthetic nutes, layering fresh compost on your soil, and kelp meal). From what I know about Rhap they think organics are a crock of shit. and let me tall ya, he's right LOL! my best compost is all the waste from my house, sealed away in buckets (with holes drilled in the bottom), water it down, come back in a year and it's a black, finished material loaded with redworms.... mmm spells out plant health for mea and makes me want to eat some
If your uncle is caring for them, I would set the buckets of water out, so you know there's no chlorine, Layer in 3-4'' of vermicompost or other compost with redworms (such as Coast of maine's products) and 1/2 cups of kelp meal for each plant. Tell him not to add anything, just keep on the water with those plants! wouldn't want to let them dry out.
What about just using Distilled water For the time he is caring for them? His water is well water, which has a Ph of 6.8 and does not contain chlorine. I am going to see if I can do overnight shipping on those products and get them in by tomorrow afternoon, hopefully it will help. I am using the same system for the 3 autos I have as well, should I do the same to all of them? Worried about the mom dying tonight or tomorrow.
Amazon.com: Espoma KM3 3-1/2-Pound Organic Traditions Kelp Meal 1-0-2: Patio, Lawn & Garden - Will this work? And Amazon.com: Uncle Jim's Worm Farm 1,000 Count Red Wiggler Live Composting Worms: Patio, Lawn & Garden Or am I looking at the wrong stuff?
I have been suggested to add some Dolomite Lime and Epsolm salts to the next feeding. Hopefully it will help. Anymore suggestions?
Yeah you got it .. the kelp and the worms are where it's at.. However that's a lot of worms for an individual pot, you'll want a handful in each pot, and add the rest to a bag of compost or soil... keep it moistened to keep the worms alive
dolomite and epsom salt are nearly useless for that condition.. and in general.. I make jokes about dolomite and epsom because of how frequently these nearly worthless products are recommended, hopefully that humor was not construed as a serious recommndation.
not really and if you see any one recommending doloimite's sometimes it is at a rate of 2-3 cups per CF... WTF? I add 1/2 cup of neem meal per CF to my plants for serious kick of slow release nitrogen, not to mention neem's other benefits... the reason is because it takes 5-8 years for dolomite to break down and load the cations with calcium and magnesium, since the calcium in dolomite's is bonded to magnesium it takes that much longer to break down.... additionally there are studies that show dolomite significantly alters soil food web structure, remarkably! and especially curious considering how little value it brings to soil overall. these are some reasons that lime from the dolomite's are at the end of the list for liming ingredients.... all the way at the end after crab shell (or shrimp shell), oyster shell flour, crushed egg shells, agricultural lime, calcium sulfate dihydrogen (ag' gypsum), even rock dusts like azomite, glacial rock dust, basalt etc. are high in calcium, in addition to every plant-based soil amendment- neem, kelp, alfalfa, etc. no reason I can imagine lime from the dolomite's is so popular besides a well-played marketing scheme.... by italians. I'll pass, thanks.
Thanks for the info, damn good post Do you know any other type of medium that has a pretty neutral pH besides coco?
Thanks Pure. I use coco, love the stuff. me Grama loves the stuff. I mix it with sphagnum peat, and lava rock, sand, and farmyard compost (blend of pultry, steer, and dairy manures composted with rice hulls- good shit with white fuzz all over and redworms inside) both peat and coco are slightly acidic I guess. compost is neutral. then I add my amendment- it's a blend of stuff i actually listed mostly above... I throw it all in a bucket, tape a lid on, and roll it around the yard. Stuff clumps together so I grab small clumps and toss it in my soil.... works like a charm, today I added a bit extra sand and planted several dozen cacti and perennial cuttings in this mix. by the way... I water with straight tap from the garden hose. my veggies and flowers are freakin off the wall!
Wanted to update everyone the plant is still alive and doing well, I layed off the water, sprayed a little bit of epsolm salts and mixed a little Dolomite lime in and the growth that had died had started to grow back very nicely.