Discrete way to make edibles

Diarrhea maybe? Lol

 

 
 
  Don't do any of this... even aside from the fact you'd never want to expose edible contents to even *reusable plastic water bottle, that are meant to be refilled, the process itself isn't going to work....
 
 And anyone who's actually put a lid, on a bottle containing something hot, and then shakes it, knows exactly what happens! I know the younger kids may not have figured that one out yet, but I've done dishes once or twice, myself... I've been around the sink a few times now.
 
 
   I hate to ask if this thread was started under a bridge, by one of those billy goat eating creatures.... but is this a trick, or a practical joke just meant to soak us (and at the cost of wasting our precious herb!), by any chance?

 

 (*Even reusable bottles aren't meant to be heated while consumable contents are inside, to catch and retain the potential toxin releases; but soda, juice, and water bottle plastics are actually considered not just by health nuts, but even by actual law.. you know, the same guys who don't actually care as much about our health, as they do about their financial interests... as 'one-use-only' products. Those plastics aren't produced with the intent of being warmed in the palm of your hand for too long, let alone were they meant to be reused at all, and this is openly-given info provided even by the manufacturers and by the people who profit by still allowing them on the shelves... we basically shouldn't be drinking from them to begin with, but it's especially important to avoid doing things that even the guys selling the stuff admit you shouldn't do!
 If even they say that you shouldn't even reuse their bottles for cold drinking water, it's probably also a good idea to avoiding drinking hot oily water from them... this is because, even if you use cold water, they still quickly begin releasing hormone altering toxins from the chemical preservatives embedded in their plastics, while the juices and sodas inside are actually formulated to hinder that process. And especially with heat, the plastic components themselves break down rapidly, releasing excessive and toxic byproducts which also normally don't exist above 'accepted levels' in the soda you bought in that container, because A.) it was newer plastic when they put the soda inside, B.) it was bottled and stored, in a very different way, and C.) even pure RO/distilled waters are known to leach chemicals from plastics quickly, but there are additives in certain city water that can also effect the speed at which plastics break down.. some decrease that speed to protect cheap pipes, while others increase the speed due to unrelated sterilization purposes).
 
 
 
 
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 Now, as far as the actual method goes...... On to alcohol based extractions.


  To start with, a shot of vodka in a bottle of water isn't going to do anything for you.
 
 
  Green Dragon should not even be attempted using common, store-bought vodka, even all on its own!
 
 Why?
 
 Water dilution!  Well over half of common vodka, is water.
 
 
 
Most store bought vodkas average around 40% alcohol, not nearly enough for an efficient extraction, even when that's all you're using.
 
 
  With that in mind... a mere shot in a bottle that is already half full of water, isn't going to do a whole lot!
 
 
 It's why people use: high proof (190 / 95%) Everclear, which is not even available nation wide; lab/food grade ethyl alcohol; or at the very least Bacardi 151!
 
 
 A low proof extraction with common vodka or other spirits of similar strength can eventually occur, but if you're patient enough, because even heat can't help.
 
With such a low proof, you're looking at an aging process that can take the better part of, or even greater than, a year.
 
 
You can use heat to get things going, but even that is really an effort in futility with such a low proof alcohol; you will degrade most all of your potency with heat, long before you are able to perform a heated extraction not to mention produce the required bioavailability. And the fact you're gradually losing more alcohol, than you are water, with any steam that you produce, continues to reduce its proof and as such its strength as a solvent (it's why after years of experience, I have always strongly recommended creating a properly-dosed tincture to begin with rather than reducing)!
 
 
 
 
 
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Now, on to oils
 
 
  Why do we use clarified butter and oil when working with cannabis? We use them because the glandular material we're after is highly soluble in oil.
 
 
 Why do the experts recommend beginning, not just with butter, but with clarified butter, that has had its water content removed?
 
 
 Because even that much dilution hinders the initial extraction!
 
 
 Unlike alcohol and its response to water contamination, which as we've discussed above also hinders the process when diluted, water and oil are not readily miscible; they don't blend easily. At a glance, this seems like it would be beneficial.
 
 But when you begin with water, the first thing that happens is your dry, and ideally decarboxylated herb (another step you've missed!) soaks up much of that water, it keeps it close, and it interferes with the initial extraction until after it's finally evaporated. The more water you use, the less likely evaporation is going to occur, and that's why the water-butters of the old days required steady heating for 15 - 24 hours to achieve a rreasonable effect... some would even heat like that for days. And only to procure a weakened product, that took multiple times the required cannabis, to ensure a single effective dose.
 
 This is why medical oils of today require less cannabis than you'd normally smoke, to produce a stronger and more powerful, longer-lasting experience! It's important for patients, because it increases the length of effectiveness of a single dose, and it increases the lasting power of their supply. In the end, eating less, for a greater effect, is just plain more cost effective.


 What's more, water contamination extracts additional components that are not usually desirable; these are what many people consider to be the 'nasty' tasting, inert, and water soluble, elements.
 
Not only will pure oil or butter extract faster....
 
Not only is it the quickest method, and will it get you more potency at a faster rate....
 
But a pure oil or milk fat (clarified butter, and/or 'ghee') also leaves many of those inert, and undesirable components, behind!
 
 
 
 
 Long story short, when making edibles and particularly with an oil based solvent, you'll have a tastier outcome, and you'll make more progress and in less time, by avoiding water contamination.








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Simple Solution for Stealth:


If stealth and speed are what you're after, a pure canna oil or butter is also still your best bet.
 
 
 
 
 
 If your peer/adult roommates are against cannabis, and if you're not in a position where your private cannabis use will bring them any *legal trouble:
 
 Instead of adding boiling water to a toxic water bottle... just bring that same pot of boiling water to your room, where you have a glass canning jar of ground cannabis prepared, and sealed inside of an oven bag meant for cooking meats and veggies.
 

Canning jars are actually meant to RELEASE steam, not contain it!
 
 
 They do well (if not entirely perfectly) for storing cold and dry cannabis...
 
 
  But they are NOT the odor-proof solution that many people claim, when it comes to heated contents! This is why you'll want the oven bag.

  For all intents and purposes, a jar can't expand, and its lid can only expand and contract so much before steam is released through the rubber vent area and lid.
 
 
 An oven bag on the other hand can be fully sealed safely, and when it's sealed while flat, any steam and pressure that is produced only inflates the bag and it remains inside, then it deflates once it cools and contracts! This is why we may use foil as well, it also has more flexibility and 'give', than a sturdy jar and its lid.
 
 We can often think that what we're doing isn't producing much of an odor, but other people who don't use cannabis frequently, and who didn't smell it just out of the bag a second ago (and gradually adapt to the odor growing stronger as the heat stays on!), tend to notice it right away.
 
 
 Early on, I can't tell you how many times I thought I had my odor control down... then I'd have company, I'd see their eyes go wide, and they'd exclaim something...
 
Either, on the upside;
 
"Something smells FABULOUS in here!"
 
 Or more on the downside;
 
"Hmm. You don't think your neighbors are brewing drugs, do you?"  (Brewing?? )
 
 
(* And on the roommates... Certain rental agreements make individual tenants legally responsible for the contents of their private rooms, without adjacent roommates facing legal repercussions.. a $5 locking doorknob is not only a good idea in general, but it's the decent and courteous thing to do for the sake of your law-abiding roommates. )
 
 
 
 So, you have your ingredients:

- a pot of boiling water
- an oven bag, containing a jar with the desired amount of finely ground herb.

 Set aside,

 - A clean cup with the desired amount of butter, or ideally coconut oil.
 
 
 First, submerge the bag and jar into the boiling water (be sure you've left space, or you'll have a hot spill!), after tying a knot in the end. Leave the open / knotted end of the bag, hanging outside of the pot. Seal firmly with a lid, pinning end of the bag in place. If you can, insulate the pot with towels, sweatshirts, what-have-you.
 
 
 At these 'temperatures', realizing that; they will vary; they will almost certainly be well below 200 F by the time the jar even heats up; and that they will only continue to decrease from there.... in 60 - 70 minutes your cannabinoids should be fairly well decarboxylated or activated under the dry and warm conditions created inside the jar. (*1 see below)
 
If you chose not to insulate the pot, you'll want to consider re-heating the water half way through.. you can just leave the jar behind in your room where no one can see it.
 
 
 
(And I won't suggest this here, it almost pains me to suggest it below! But see the section *2 on *Corner Cutting* to help you decide whether or not you want to skip anything or take short cuts...)
 
 
 
 
 Once the decarb phase is over, remove the bag from the pot, and allow it to cool fully... once cooled, it will produce only the same, or sometimes even less odor than it produced when you put it in there to begin with! But while it's still warm, it's still quite smelly, so wait before opening the bag!
 
 
Now, either heat your butter or oil over the stove top.... or in a safe cup or bowl, just microwave it. You want it quite hot, but be careful not to overheat, it especially in the microwave; it can bubble over, splash up and scald you! How long to preheat the oil, depends on how much oil you're making, not to mention the strength and efficiency of your microwave; you'll know it better than we can!
 
 While you're doing the above, be sure you're re-heating your pot of water....
 
 
 Bring the pot of water, and the cup of oil, back to your room.
 
 Add the oil, to the cool jar, and quickly seal it. Don't seal it too tight or the pressure can damage the seal, or even shatter the jar itself if the oil is hot enough the jar is weak enough, and if the vent-action of the rubberized lid doesn't respond right away. When sealed too tightly, the vent requires more pressure to release, and a flawed jar may not be able to take it. You need to keep these things in mind, because under normal canning conditions, you likely wouldn't be adding something quite as hot to the cold jar. (And when canning, you're actually relying on the vacuum produced when the jars begin to cool, to create the 'seal'.  While heated, they are meant to vent!)
 
 So, add your oil, seal the jar, re-seal the whole thing inside your bag, and plop it back into your boiling water, seal it up again just like you did before, and re-heat once each hour, for at least three hours.
 
 
 
Strain out the used herb (or don't!), and you're done!
 
 
 
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 This definitely IS a little more tedious than just biting the bullet and making oil properly, in your kitchen, on a quiet and private day.
 
 
But it still only requires maybe 15 - 20 minutes of actual effort, as far as that goes it's just about as simple as adding oil and hot water to a water bottle, and the rest of the process is still just waiting
 
  Adding oil to a jar and heating it inside a pot of boiling water, is just as easy as doing the same thing and instead adding that water to the bottle. But in that water bottle, not only is it unhealthy and will it taste pretty nasty, but you'd need to rely on that single session of heat to perform the entire process.
 
 Reheating a pot of boiling water a few times can hardly be called difficult... but even if you only boil the water pot once:
 
 A larger volume will stay hotter, for much longer, than just a half a bottle of water!
 

And on the to notes and disclaimers
 
 
*1 - The good news is that, while this isn't exactly the most reliable method, complete and total 100% decarboxylation before beginning the extraction is not always necessary; aside from the fact older and poorly stored cannabis can already be decarbed or well on its way, when making oil, you're about to continue heating for a few additional hours and after a solid attempt at a pre-decarb, the additional processing in oil easily completes the decarb.
 
 It's why at the CannaPharm we recommend that patients should "err on the side of caution" when decarbing, and it's why I've always suggested a slightly briefer pre-decarb than several of the larger companies, like GW Pharma, have misleadingly shared; your herb is likely already beginning the process, and where you're already moving on to a heated extraction, *bam* there's your additional decarb time. It's slower in oil, but in order to extract and promote bioavailability, you're more than making up for that decrease in speed even with the most minimally complete oil; one that produces a full extraction and complete bioavailability, without facilitating any further degradation or CBN production.
 
 
*2 *Corner Cutting*

I would NEVER normally suggest this, but if you feel you must, and if you're in that much of a rush... well, first off, don't get in that position.
 
 
If you want to have an edible, either just make it the day before, or make a few doses all at once, so you can at least have a weak sample that night, while still taking advantage of a few doses of the same size, that are several times that strength by the next day. The best use of your canna requires at least the minimum amount of processing, that includes 1) the pre-decarb (to eliminate the need for unnecessary, over-extended oil processing just to ensure a full decarb, which can be detrimental if you're attempting to avoid CBN formation), 2) the extraction, and 3) the required amount of time to create a bioavailable solution, after the material has been extracted.
 
 It's worth it not to cut corners... corner cutting is responsible for all of our dosage discrepancy issues, and it's responsible for all the myths that suggest edibles 'take more weed' to get you buzzed, which isn't the case at all.
 
 
 But on topic.... so many people fight it, that I'll just say this:
 
 If you're really rushed, and you just can't wait, I would not normally suggest it and it's almost painful to type out, but you could skip the pre-decarb and move right on to the oil if you have plenty of herb to spare.  And hey, if you're lucky, maybe it's old stuff and it's already well on its way to being decarbed! Although that's not quite as lucky if this is your regular smoking supply

 

Hey when you grow, do you have to dry and cure before you make edibles? Since your not really combusting is it necessary?

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Thoroughly dry but not cured is best. Unless using for severe medical reasons, use your sugar trim since you're already growing.  Then kief it for for better concentration and great taste.