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Decarb Weed

Discussion in 'Incredible, Edible Herb' started by Ontarios, Jul 30, 2011.

  1. Hello, I am somewhat new to weed edibles. I just recently saw that you should decarb your bud before making any edibles. What is the reason for this?
  2. Decarboxylation is the process of removing the carboxyl group, in the form of carbon dioxide and water vapor, in order to cause cannabinoid conversion to their more active, delta forms. It is essentially 'drying out' the material, even beyond being smoke-dry, and this can be sped up with gentle heat (it occurs instantly when you combust and smoke your material, but also degrades and destroys some potency in the process... this is why edibles, and vaping, can be a more efficient use of your meds).

    If you attempt to eat essentially 'raw' herb, fresh off the plant, without even the proper drying or aging, let alone decarbing, you'll get little to no effect.

    But decarbing, is only the first step of the edible-making process.

    Cannabis glandular material alone, is notoriously difficult for the body to absorb, even when activated, sticky and gooey.

    Like larger vegetable matter, if it is not broken down and absorbed by the body, it goes in one end, and right out the other without providing the benefit or effect you seek, to its fullest capacity... you may, and certainly should feel something, if enough is eaten as-is.
    But you'd absorb, benefit, and feel much more, by promoting better bioavailability. Meaning, you're wasting a portion of your materials medicinal-effect, otherwise!

    Without breaking down that glandular material further in a pure edible oil source, coating it and promoting bioavailability, your rate of absorption is much lower, and the resulting outcome, much weaker.

    Concentrates such as smokable 'hash oil', or Rick's 'hemp oil' are put to much better use, when processed further to promote bioavailability, using an edible oil source such as grapeseed, coconut, hemp seed, or olive oil.

    To learn how to make this (or your trimmings...)


    Into, this...


    See the link below:

    (First Page, contains detailed information on decarboxylation, or cannabinoid conversion.. decarboxylation is the process of activating your cannabinoids 'potency' by removing the carboxyl group in the form of carbon dioxide and water vapor, converting your cannabinoids from their acid, to their more potent delta forms):

    Photo Tutorial: Highly Activated Med Grade Bioavailable Canna & Hash Oil, Edibles, Drinkables and more...

    The best oils, produce little to no odor during processing, if sealed properly and heated and cooled correctly. You can easily put it in any boxed brownie mix... be sure to read the final paragraph for detailed dosage information.
  3. Wish I could rep you...gotta pass it around
  4. Thanks a lot for your info BadKittySmiles. I now know that I should decarb all my bud before making any food with it. I am now wondering, how long should I put my ground up bud in the oven for, and at what temperature? I have high-quality 'dank' as people would say, so I know it probably shouldnt be in there too long, unlike if it were fresh herb straight off the plant, that was not dried or cured. I am thinking I should put it in there at around 250 for 20 minutes. Does this sound good?
  5. badkitty has a how to on that... look it up

    I've read conflicting reports...

    I just did the lowest setting on my oven(170) for thirty minutes...

    badkitty suggested (and im pulling from memory so dont quote)

    300 for 15 minutes.... you need to look that info up for yourself... Ill try to find it

    I would listen to badkitty... way more experience... one sec
  6. Decarbing is a touchy issue for many folks, some know they need it but don't know the

    methods and practices that cause decarbing, some aren't aware of it at all, others think

    it's unnecessary and 'know' they get some amount of effect from eating bud on its own,

    here's why: some herb, if it's old, commercial, over-dry, whatever the reason, for a variety

    of reasons, some herb is already partially, or even full decarbed. The process begins

    happening, very gradually, the moment you cut a plant down and begin depriving it of

    water. The older the bud is, and the drier it gets, the more carbon dioxide and water vapor

    is released, and the closer it is to removing the carboxyl group. It's something that is

    almost never discussed publicly, but is frequently known in professional kitchens.

    The fresher the herb, or the more moist the storage conditions, the more necessary and

    extensive the decarbing process needs to be. Loose hash, separated from plant matter,

    in general needs a bit less decarbing. With herb, depending on the age, I decarb for a full

    20 minutes after the preheat, rather than including that warm up in my 20 minute time


    A food dehydrator works just as well, if not better than heat at decarbing, it reduces the

    risk of damaging your product with excessive heat. It's hard to tell when your decarb is

    completed when using heat, usually gently browned herb is a good sign but it often

    means you've taken it a hair too far, and some material in the middle may not be

    completely decarbed.

    Once cooled, remove your dish.

    Now, preheat your oven to 250 f, while you complete the following steps. Don't worry, it is

    too hot, but you'll be reducing the heat once you're ready to use it.

    In every step of the way, in order to prevent the loss of potency via vapor escape, you

    MUST wait for your sealed container to fully cool, prior to opening.

    Unwrap your foil covered dish. Your hash should now have gone from a very pale sandy

    amber, to a light but somewhat golden brown.
    mAryjAyne_dOe likes this.
  7. Okay, so she said she decarbs for 20 minutes, at 250? I'm sorry Im pretty tired and its tough for me to get a read on this.
  8. thats how most of the postings go... reading between the lines...

    I have read multiple threads suggesting the lowest temp the oven goes for 30... crush the plant matter between your fingers, if it crumbles... its done.. if not... check it every five...

    you could even check it sooner
  9. I know this is an older thread but I've been looking with no results.

    To make Rick Simpson oil. would I need to decarb the Herb?

    I've done great with edibles, decarbing with no problems . I'm unsure if Decarbing will strip out what is needed in Simpson oil. Thank you.

    A link or advice would be greatly appreciated. thank you all Happy new Year !
  10. I don't think that the Simpson Oil method uses any heat other than the heat used to evaporate the solvent. His oil isn't processed to make you high. Its made to deliver cannabinoids to heal.

    THC in its un-aged form has great healing properties. I believe that this is what Mr Simpson was going for with his oil. I've heard people talk about consuming it and there was no mention of getting high.

    Watch this video on the healing properties of juiced fresh cannabis.

    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qa0nLdVJiIg&feature=player_embedded"]Leaf - YouTube[/ame]
    mAryjAyne_dOe likes this.
  11. #11 buckbuck, Jan 2, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 2, 2012
    Huge help Gangeefried thank you. Very informative video. I'd rather keep the stoned effects out as much as possible. Very cool site here. I think between Cannabis and H202 life is going to be allot better.

  12. A problem many patients have with RSO (Rick Simpson's Oil) is that it's not very bioavailable.. meaning a TON of your potency goes 'in one end, and out the other, without absorption, and without providing any benefits!
    Even when it's been activated and 'should' provide potent sensations, it often does not... this is because you're not absorbing as much as you otherwise could. :)

    You can achieve the same medicinal benefits, from only a fraction of the material, if you promote a higher degree of bioavailability before consumption.


    If you need bioavailable THCA (considered 'non-psychoactive'), then after your cold extraction, you need to perform a long cold oil process (several weeks, to months).

    If you need bioavailable 'active' THC, you need to decarb first, before making your concentrate, and then perform a more brief (several hours) heated oil process.

    The best oils are coconut oil, and palm kernel oil, for their high medium-chain triglyceride content, and to a lesser extent, clarified butter.

    If you need long-chain triglycerides (it's more rare, but some patients do), then you should be using sesame, grapeseed (low temp only), or olive oil.


    If you are looking to NOT 'feel' so medicated or doped up, but you'd like to experience the medicinal benefits of cannabis, these links, and an excerpt from a different thread (helping a man care for his elderly father, who suffers from Parkinson's) should help you...


    BadKat's Highly Activated & Bioavailable, Med-Grade Canna Oil

    Med-Grade Canna Oil


    BadKat's Highly Activated & Bioavailable, Med-Grade Hash Oil (same as capsule recipe, oil can also be used for cooking)

    Med-Grade Hash Oil


    Glycerin Tincture


    'Inactive' (but medicinally active) THCA:

    Important Notes on Activation, and Desired Outcome (useful for MS, Parkinson's and other potentially frail patients)


    Terpene Information


    THCA is the less or non-psychoactive precursor, to psychoactive THC.

    Older, frail patients suffering from Parkinson's, MS and similar ailments, should be started on an 'inactive' THCA oil or tincture...

    Unless of course they've had somewhat-recent, (and positive) past experiences with smoking cannabis... or in other words, if he's had experience with smoking or eating 'active' THC. [​IMG]

    Many patients with MS, Parkinson's, or other frail conditions, who have not experienced 'activated' (or potent-feeling) cannabis, often find the 'therapeutic doses' to be much too strong, sensation-wise.

    When your cannabis has been 'activated' you receive the powerful (sensation-wise) THC, versus what many see as 'inactive' THCA, which provides little to no noticeable sensation... but however, THCA is no less powerful medicinally, in many aspects, and still has wonderful: anti-spasmodic, anti-cancer, analgesic and other beneficial properties!


    "“THCA” =D9-THCA = Delta9-THCA A: D9-tetrahydrocannabinol acid – This is the precursor to THC and is typically the most abundant cannabinoid produced in most plants grown at present. (Dried cannabis typically contains 15-25% THCA.) A large fraction (but not all ) of the THCA converts to THC upon strong heating (> 200F). The amount converted depends on the details of the temperature and timing. THCA has been shown to have anti-spasmodic and anti-proliferative (anti-cancer) properties, as well as evidence of anti-inflammatory activity. (In fact, there are other acid forms of THC, but they are almost always present in only very small quantities. THCA A and THCA B differ only in the placement of the carboxylic acid group. THCA A is almost always the version referred to when no designation is made.)

    “THC"= “D9-THC” = Delta9-THC = D9-tetrahydrocannabinol – Thought to be the most psychoactive of the cannabinoids and largely attributed with many beneficial medical properties, such as pain relief, appetite stimulation, anti-spasmodic properties, anti-emetic properties and many more. Plants don't produce this compound directly. (Dried plant material contains only a few percent THC.) It is produced from THCA (see next entry) by heating or exposure to UV light. Not all THCA ends up as THC. Heating has been shown to convert at most about 70% of the THCA into THC. The “D9” in the name indicates the specific location of a carbon-carbon double-bond in one of the rings" - Some Medicinal Properties of Cannabinoids | halentlabs.com


    So, if you produce a bioavailable blend of, what many recreational users see as, 'inactive' THCA, he can receive MUCH higher doses, without feeling very or even at all stoned!

    In this way, frail patients can remain alert, aware and comfortable, while still receiving both unique benefits, and many of the same medicinal benefits as the 'more-active' THC (and even more benefits, from the undamaged terpenes, which normally would be very seriously degraded upon exposure to heat!)

    The only problem, is that a cold oil or tincture can take weeks to make.

    A cold glycerin extraction can be performed as well, but takes several months.


    **** If you go for a cold recipe.. here are suggestions to speed things up **** :

    I would suggest a cold grain (drinking) alcohol extraction, using whatever cannabis/material you have available.

    Alcohol is a much healthier option, and leaves behind fewer impurities, than the 'naptha' and butane used during some extractions.

    *** If he can't tolerate alcohol, do not worry: there will be no alcohol in the finished product!

    *** It is important that the temperature remains as low as possible for the duration of the process, preferably below 80 f.

    This will rapidly begin the process of breaking down that glandular material, in such a way that it can almost immediately pass through a coffee filter... it is still not yet broken down enough, nor is it a complete enough solution, and as such it is only partially, but not yet fully bioavailable within the human body.

    Before the alcohol evaporates, add grapeseed, sesame, or olive oil. Evaporate the alcohol near either an open window, or in a well-ventilated room, with a fan aimed at the surface.

    A flat dish of alcohol will evaporate much more rapidly, than a tall cup!

    Once the alcohol is gone, and you are left with a blend of cannabinoid/terpene concentrate, and either sesame, grapeseed or olive oil, you should then blend in gently-warmed liquiefied coconut oil, and continue mixing with further heating, blending as well as possible. Use roughly 50%coconut oil, versus the other previously mentioned oil/s... if you blend frequently enough, it should stay relatively liquid.

    This should be placed in the freezer for a minimum of two days, or as long as week, in the coldest area of your freezer (near the ice-cube maker, or the shelf intended for trays of ice-cubes). Freezing helps to disrupt cellular integrity, allowing the miniscule particles and clumps of glandular material to break down even further, and upon warming to room temperature it will more easily become bioavailable in only a matter of weeks, rather than a matter of months, and months.

    This oil should not produce a 'high', except when taken in ridiculously high doses, by people with very low tolerance.

    If you used decent flowers, he should begin with less than 0.20g. Take into consideration how much material you used to make your oil, if you used 5 grams, then you've got 25 doses.

    You can use as much, or as little oil-to-herb as you like... but remember, do not cook with it, or it will begin to 'activate' your THCA, turning some of it into the more powerful, sensation-wise, THC! - BKS
  13. Wow thank you Kitty, that will keep me busy researching and reading but I think my answers are there. Thank you very much for your time spent replying.
  14. kitty... you are a god

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