First Time Posting, new user Thank you for all your responses and time! I have been attempting to create a BHO product I can be proud of. I have watched youtube videos (they all hold back on the details bc they think you are going to cut into their profits esp KNOTTYY hes a dick!) I have got the beginning process down but the curing/purging process is where I have been having terrible trouble. I am using a 5 gallon chamber with a 6cfm vac. I purchased this on ebay from pro vac. Posted (3) photos first is one of my batches, I was whipping back then, second is in the VAC and third is after 24 hours in the vac and yes it still sizzles and crackles when lit. My purging process: 1). Once finished shooting, I continue the warm water bath, keeping the starting temp of the water at 120 degrees. 2). After the oil is not reacting anymore I take it out of the Pyrex and place it on to a piece of parchment paper. I spread it evenly and try to keep it pretty thin. 3). Once it is on the parchment paper I put it in the vacuum chamber and crank it up. THIS IS WHERE MY TROUBLE IS: It never stops bubbling; in fact most times it stops with bubbles formed that WILL NOT pop. The only way I can get it completely purged is to place the parchment back on the griddle at temps of close to 200 degrees, when I do this I can smell the oil burning and I get small brown circles in the oil. I recently purchased a LEFSE griddle, circular cooking space that perfectly fits the chamber and it starts at 100 degrees which I thought would be purging excess tane. I used this yesterday and the 100 degree temp caused no reaction, so I increased it and kept doing it until I saw a reaction. It wasn't until the temp hit almost 200 on the control that the oil started thinning out and bubbling again. Of course the color went from a beautiful yellow to brown leather couch kinda look. PLEASE help!! My vacuum goes down to -25hg, which isn't what I see most vacuums on youtube max out on so I am worried that may be one issue. Other than that I really don't know what else I am doing wrong, which is why I am here, to ask the PROS. Any words of advice, wisdom or hardened knowledge would be fucking amazing! Thank you!
ur oil looks good dude, your doing all the necessary steps, what kinda butane you using? You running nugs or trim?
I am using vector 5x refined Mostly using trim, from my own grow, however the other day we did run some nuggs, they were lightly broken down, not quite trim, and they shot beautifully. My BHO ALWAYS looks good until I get to vac. The oil isnt hot enough for the vac to pull any butane so I heat it up and then boom it turns brown.
Do you always have a sizzle? I can never get the sizzle out, also do you whip? My hash seems to be a lighter color when I whip.
If you aren't happy with your BHO efforts, and want to try something a little different, I recommend you check out this sticky: http://forum.grasscity.com/harvesting-processing-medical-marijuana/861215-how-make-good-oil-step-step-pictures.html This guy did a fantastic tutorial on how to make some amazing, tasty, and crazy potent ISO oil. I just ran 6 ounces of material and got 3 and a half vials of some amazing, golden brown oil that you can spread on papers or hit in a bong. It tastes amazing (if done right), and it is ridiculously strong.....I posted a few pics in that thread of my results. I know BHO is all the rage, but if you want to try something different (that is really easy to do) than I recommend giving it a go!
That is a super shitty guide^ OP, were saying you would bump it up to 200F whil;e in the vac? I would stop doing that not only for your oil's sake but because thats not safe at all. pulling a chamber down to vac at temps like that is gonna run the risk of implosion. Whats your elevation? your gauge may need to be calibrated but you also may have a leak. pull your chamber down as far as it will go and close it off, leave it for a day or two and see if the gauge drops at all. If it does, you most likely have a leaky pot. Those pots are known for leaking where the rivets attach the handles to the pot. if you still cant achieve higher vacuum after clamping all your hose connections/re-taping threaded connections, pull the chamber down to vac, close it off and apply silicone around the base of the handles so if there is any leak, it will pull the silicone into the void and seal it. How long are your purging it when you say it never stops reacting? and how much oil at a time? From what I've noticed, like 80% of people dont purge their shit long enough. and even if you do notice it stops reacting, that still isnt an indicator that its finished. and Knotty's tech is pretty transparent and out in the open if you watch his videos plus he has a FAQ on each one.
Knotty is holding his secrets close to his chest, he never answers real questions and he hates when people ask questions that create a quality product. ALL he shows is his finished products and when he dabs. Ive watched all his videos and I still cant seem to get anything out of it. No one on youtube has a start to finish video with ALL necessary steps to create shatter/honeycomb. Most of my bho is purged for at least 24 hours straight, then if its still reactive I vac it longer. The griddle temp gets to 200 but the temp inside the vac doesnt seem to get hotter than 130. It always sizzles and sparks when lit. I really dont know what I am doing wrong anymore, its clearly my purging process though as my product after shooting is amazing. My vac doesnt have a leak I have pulled it to -25 and left it for over 2 days and it stays the same, I had to pull it apart and retape with plumbers tape bc vac pro didnt, after this it went from -20 to -025 but still cant get down to the -30 and lower I see on these videos. I am in cali right next to the water so my elevation is low. At the most I run 24 cans of tane and then vac it.
how much tane per OZ? if your errl sizzles, that makes me think theres water in it somehow. and if your starting material was that wet, you would probably have some doodoo budder. What kind of pump do you have? also, 130 is still too high if you want shatter, temps that high will start to wax it up. Keep em 90-110 and not any higher
That's a pretty asinine comment seeing as that "shitty guide" has been a popular sticky for quite some time, and has helped many (myself included) to make some amazing iso hash oil. It's by far the best guide for this method that I've found anywhere, and if followed correctly it yeilds some oil of fantastic quality. Unless you've actually tried this method, don't hate on it......you sound like a BHO fanboy that disregards any other methods of making hash oil. I'll put the taste and potency of the oil I made from this guide up against any BHO.
What? you stated how this is a popular thread and is a sticky and all that jazz.... doesnt mean shit! its still not a very good guide. theres waaaay better info out there. TheISOhead thread for one. BHO fanboy? lmao QWISO is what got me started in extracts and I still do QWISO extractions and love em, you dont know me, sir.
Out of curiosity, what is so poor about the guide? I found it very easy to follow, and the results speak for themselves.
for one, hes using a fucking pillow case. What companies, specifically herbal extract companies, use a pillow case to make their medicine? never mentions how you should have your alcohol frozen to keep chlorophyll absorption down so you dont have green liquid evaps on a straight griddle, no glass, scrapes with a plastic card and then proceeds to melt it off that plastic card with a lighter.... not very professional if you ask me.
I second that the ISOhead thread is THE source for info on that technique. A really good video is posted there too. Didn't read up on that but a credit card really? And a pillow case? Surprised he didn't use his moms old nylons. Hahal
So does anyone else have any tips for making BHO, Im cool with this alcohol process its sounds and looks like too much. I just want to make good honeycomb and shatter for my local MMJ clubs.
When I purge my bho I make sure I have it spread as evenly and thin as possible. I feel like the more surface area exposed the better the purge. This is not based off any research other than my basic understanding of the purging concept. If you have too much product and it's bubbling together in clusters you may need a bigger pan or something. I like to see individual bubbles flat to the surface. When I take the time to do it this way the end results are much nicer. I only do small batches so this might not be feasible for your larger batches. Hope it helps.
Im having the same problem! i have a 6.2 CFM pump with a 3 gallon chamber and everytime ive purged stuff i always have bubbles that just wont pop. My pump has no problem getting to the -29.5 hg and my temp is usually 110-125 and still nothing. Ive even tried purging 1.5 grams for over 24 hours and the only way to get them out is if im in my car and the heat makes them pop. Im using pretty good trim and even used nugs and all still the same thing. Ive recently noticed that my chamber has a leak so does that mean i need to turn up the pressure? Like poppaeve said he didnt have a leak and was having the same problem
If your bubbles wont pop after a lengthy purge, equalize the pressure in the chamber and let the oil sit for 30 minutes to an hour and it should meld into itself. also flipping the slab near the end of the purge is good too, helps get a bit more activity out of it before finishing up.
Ive done the letting it sit there for awhile on heat and still have the problem..i havent tried flipping it on itself really but ill give that a shot