*** Canna Nutrient Users Come Together ***

First time Canna user, long time lurker....

Right now I am vegging my first go with Canna and I am liking the results.

I am using a mix of Roots Organic Soiless and their straight Coco Coir bricks. Its about 3 bags of Soiless to 1 full brick. I always use tap.

Canna A/B -- I use right around 10ml per gal. (been adjusting this slightly down around the 8.5-9 range).

CANNAZYM -- 10ml per gallon.

RHIZOTONIC -- 5ml per gallon.

Kangaroots -- 1/2tsp every other week. (dont plan on continuing this)

 

My Canna levels are all over the place. Here's what I have used with their base system successfully:

Canna Rhizotonic
Botanicare Hydroplex 0-10-6 (Cannazym Replacement)
Dyna-Grow Pro-Tekt 0-0-3 (Silicon Supplement and pH up)
Advanced Nutrients Big Bud Bloom 1-17-38 (Early/Mid flowering K boost)
Advanced Nutrients Nirvana 0-0-1 (Don't know if it did anything. Didn't hurt. Won't use again)
Botanicare Liquid Karma ?-?-? (Kelp, Humic, and Yucca. Stuff works.)
Botanicare Cal-Mag Plus (Replaces hardness for filtered water)
Botanicare CNS17 Ripe (I cut out the Canna after day 45 and run Ripe to the finish)
General Organics BioWeed (Kelp supplement used up until flower set)
Humboldt Nutrients FlavorFul (Fulvic Acid and pH down)

I really like Canna in Veg. Especially with the Rhizo and the Kelp. I genuinely believe it is the best system for vegging coco plants.

Canna in flowering has been some trial and error personally. I find more PK+Mag seems to help their system considerably. Not a huge amount more. Just a little bit. Makes a big difference for myself.

In the future I may come back to Canna and do another pure hydro grow with them using only their products. The last time I used Cannazym it was before they had reformulated it to 0-2-1 and I had a hell of a time without that. Finding Hydroplex at 5x the concentration for the same price and effect to the PK level is a major deterrent for me to ever buy the Zym... but I might do it just for shits and giggles.

 

Damn! 12ml/g of A+B...

That's like 160ppm of Nitrogen... Minimum.
I have had a lot better results with less calculated N from them, but every grow room is different and if it ain't broken, don't fix it. I'll start around 100ppm of N at the transition and work down to around 60ppm of calculated Nitrogen by the 25th day.

I'll start bloom around 7.5ml A+B, 2ml Hydroplex, 2ml BioWeed, 2ml Pro-Tekt, 2ml FlavorFul, 1/4tsp Epsom and water down to 1.2ec. I then add in the Big Bud dry once the flowers are setting at 1g per gallon, and water it down to the right EC. In the past I have pushed 0.1ec every week up to about 2.0EC, but in hindsight even this was too much food for most plants. I think that the next time around in flowering I might peak at only 1.6ec. I run the Big Bud dry until about day 40 to 45. Then I cut out everything and just run CNS17 Ripe at 20ml/gallon until it is time to flush. The Ripe is good shit to finish flowering at 1-5-4.

Canna's PK 13/14 is simple PK and it lasts so damn long since we only use it for like a week. I consider it an "investment" of sorts because the bottle hung out in my grow room basically until it expired.

The cost of Canna Boost is ridiculous. I have found that they have a 250ml bottle of the BioBoost (without the salt additives) for around $20 to $25 at my local grow store. By using this as a foliar spray, rather than a root drench, I got the same effect (maybe even marginally better) and saved myself a ton of cash. For anyone who runs their program and is turned off by the Boost price tag this is what I suggest to do. I had decent resin results running the BioBoost and Nirvana in my foliar spray, but nothing has come close to the resin I have gotten from CES's Uncle Johns Blend. I hear Alfalfa and Neem Cake tea's are useful for organic growers looking for a killer foliar spray additive, but I haven't tried this myself and the evidence for them is anecdotal at best. Worth experimenting with probably...

 

I'm gonna give this shit a crack now i finally found calmag, but will be using none of the canna additives, just koolbloom, canadian xpress regen-a-root and fulvic acid. What are your peoples thoughts on this? Will it hurt the integrity of the product? don't really have much of a plan, i'll probably just use it as i did h&g and if it sucks, go back to using that..

 

I am not familiar with Regen-a-root and cannot comment.

Use the KoolBloom as a replacement for Cannazym and PK 13/14. Do this by only using 2.5ml per 4 Liters to begin with, increasing the use slowly, and don't exceed 5ml per 4 liters around days 40 to 50.

7.5ml of A+B with 2.5ml of KoolBloom in 4 liters gives a minimum profile of 94N-60P-104K 85Ca 23Mg

Fairly balanced. Maybe not exactly what your plants need, but definitely in the ballpark. Don't go too nuts with the KoolBloom, you can see how much just 2ml changes the original Canna profile from 5-4-3 to more along the lines of a 3-4-4.

The KoolBloom does contain Magnesium but we don't know how much... I assume probably 1-2%, so another 8 to 10 ppm of Mg is expectable but unknown, and impossible to rely on.

 

If I could pick one piece of advice over all the others:

Stick to your guns hombre.

 

When would you recommend starting the koolbloom? transition? bud formation?

What about the calmag, how much of that do you need to use?

Really looking forward to it, though i found some mite action on my shitty wee clones so that sucks

 

Yep was meaning liquid kb. Also have dry too tho.. guess i cut the liquid and add at 1.5g/gallon weeks 6 and 7? Did that last time and credit a large portion of my recent harvest to that stuff. Buds swelled up quite a lot towards the end, unlike previous grows where i was apprehensive to hit them hard

Guess the trick with calmag is to use as little as possible, but just enough to ward off deficiencies?

 

Canna A&B + PK13/14... been the go-to nutrient in the UK for some time now. Pretty simple system. I think they changed their formula a while back to contain a bit more nitrogen If I remember right. I think they were getting a lot of complaints about yellowing in veg. In terms of performance, it's no different to most other nutes we get over here really.

 

[quote name='"SCMC"']
Canna's PK 13/14 is simple PK and it lasts so damn long since we only use it for like a week. I consider it an "investment" of sorts because the bottle hung out in my grow room basically until it expired.
[/quote]

I am curious about the Canna PK and why it's only used for a week. I noticed another poster in the thread said he only ran it in week 4.

I am currently running Canna A/B and have some Canna Rhizo soon to arrive in a few days. I'm starting week 4 soon, already pushed her into 12/12 due to a small grow window. If its something helpful I'd like to add it to my lineup for the future.

 

I am currently running the full Canna coco line and running according to grow guide.
I also use:
ProTekt (potassium silicate) for supplemental potassium (3.7%) and silicon (7.8%) and can also be used as ph up.
Flavorful (8% refined Humic acid) as ph down and beneficial additive.
Cal-mag because of RO water

I recently reached out to Canna because their Rhizo and Boost can be used as foliar sprays and this is what they had to say for anyone curious:

"Now, there can be some benefit to foliar applications of fertilizer, however, only a small portion of elements will actually cross the leaf barrior. Best is always through the roots. If the roots are compromised, or missing, then certainly the leaves make an acceptable (but not perfect) way to introduce nutrients to the plants. Any decent Nitrogen source will work, phosphate does not cross the barrior, Potassium does, and many micro's. Bet applications are done with easy fertilizers like compost tea, or Rhizotonic. Also, you can use the A/B this way, but again, only as a back up. If plants are good then no need."

 

Any pk product is just something to allow you to tweak the npk a little bit. That's all.
With regards to the advice to use it just in one week I've never followed that plan because I don't see the point. If you look at Hesi, another dutch company, they suggest to use it all the way through flower... then if you look at general hydro and their famous lucas formula, you see it's just micro and bloom made up to shift the P&K around. Other companies do other things... flower "boosters" are nothing more than phosphorus and potassium. In flower your plant want less nitrogen, but not a drastic shift in proportions or feed strength. Understand that and you understand how to make basic adjustments to your feed using something like a pk product. It doesn't have to be canna either. Brand doesn't matter.

 

Grabbed this from another thread:

"PK 13/14: - The usage period for PK 13/14 is, in fact, only a 7-10
day window. finding the window is something entirely different. it does not start at the beginning of the bloom cycle. it does occur within 3-7 days from the point you see a change in the growth of the plant to flowering, about the time you see the first flowers forming. from this point, in your first attempt, use it for about 3 weeks along with the
other nutrients. PK is not a stand alone product, follow the feed chart. after the first crop, for subsequent crops, you might have to start it a day sooner or a day later and you can begin to shorten the time it is used. ultimately you will find the window of about 7-10 days and the right point to start.
it varies with each variety of plant and grower technique along with growing conditions can also delay or speed up the appearance of the window.

Tends to be best used in a 7 - 10 day window starting about the time you see first flower formation. This typically, on an 8 week flower response group, to be about 5 weeks before harvest or 2-3 weeks after flower initiation (not light change). Adding it early will not advance or benefit flower initiation, only the amount of dark the plant sees will initiation flowering. Adding too early could result in phosphate accumulation and ratio issues involving Ca and Mg. If using A/B at full strength, cut it back a little as you introduce the PK. The best way to dial in the PK takes some trial and error work. This can be anything from 3 - 10 days after switching light cycle or the natural trigger for flower is received by the plant. Remember a plant has to convert to flower in most cases which takes a little time from the moment the dark cycle increases or decreases based on the species of plant being grown. Use PK for about a 3 week window at each irrigation along with the other components. Then you can stop. You really can not use PK too long except in the final week or so, or giving it too early. You want to use it when the buds are forming and just starting to kind of wrap around the branch (right before they start linking together)"

 

There have been field tests using phosphite which have shown it to have an improvement in P deficient crops actually. I was reading it recently. Phosphite isn't a source of P regularly included in most nutes, although some companies like vitalink and plant magic are using it in theirs.