Hello, Sorry about creating 2 topics. Could the other one be removed, please? I could not delete it myself. I've had a spider mite infestation recently. Still dealing with it, but now there's a different problem in my veg that's been killing all my young, rooted, clones. First, while still under the dome, the clones look healthy. I usually apply Leaf Coat to tops of the source plant before cloning, and again, about a week later, I spray the clones before taking them out of the humidity dome. Necrosis often appears on the leaf edges still while in the dome. When I take them out and transplant them they stop growing, appear stagnated for a few days, then start to slowly wilt and die. Seems the same is happening if I don't transplant. I've been treating them with neem oil, Leaf Coat and sulfur, to no avail. Also treated most of them with a pesticide containing Triforine and Mancozeb (nasty synthetics). Some clones I've treated with synthetics pretty early on, so I'm still hoping for positive results. Please advise - a little afraid to lose my operation.... Attaching some photos.
He says they have a disease but its probably lack of roots, vigor and they waste away. My clones live but I hate the 2+ week set back to get them to start growing again.
Sometimes I can have mine in their cups before I see roots. Little busy, just popping back and forth. I'll let you in my experience a bit later. Stay tuned...and have a good day...
See the thick veins in the leaf? ,, it tell us that the roots are working and you have over watered them a little, so we know things are fine there, what is screwing this up this that hot soil mix, use seedling mix for clones and no nute/ food until up and running, better to mix in 30% sand or perlite to the seedling mix just to be safe, cone to a 4 inch pot to start then up to a 1 gal pot with 30% sand or perlite to the potting mix, then to 100% potting mix at 3 gallon pot in 2-3 months, please understand that clones have no vitality, that many growers expect from normal seeded plants and mis calculate appropriately and enough of the chemicals one blast of foilar Neem per month should cover all your needs
You are trolls, and you have highjacked a serious thread about plant illness. Is it possible to get some serious responses to this now? Do I need to open a new thread?
Maybe I should point you in the right direction, seriously? http://forum.grasscity.com/sick-plants-problems/226015-when-posting-your-sick-plants-questions.html
I'd say the necrosis could be from a couple things. You may have a yellow mold growth in your soil. Have you checked for mold? The necrosis on the leaves could be from being overwatered, as others have said. The reason it wilts and dies when you remove the dome is because the humidity drops too fast and since the roots are not strong enough to absorb the water in the roots, they expect the water from the underside (stomata) of the leaves. If there's not enough water in the air, they essentially dry out on top and mold on the bottom. Also, it's imperative that you do not add chemicals to your clones either via foliar feeding or through the roots. If you must feel the need to use a rooter feel free but make sure you do it correctly. A lot of people dip the plant into the powder and this will kill it. The powder must be mixed with water. I recommend water colder than room temp. Water warm to the touch will also kill/stunt/shock plants. Jiffy pellets are excellent to root into. Two cheap plastic clear cups reversed work well, but the domes work equally well if you know what you're doing. A lot of people have trouble with domes, as the humidity is too high (over sixty percent and mold begins vegetative growth on the epidermis) and not as easy to control as a smaller area, like a plastic cup. The necrosis you mentioned on the leaves that attacks from the edges in is grey mold. It becomes present in conditions above 60% humidity and will die once the lid comes off (not die, become dormant). If you reapply the lid the mold will spring to life. Examine it under a microscope and you will see it clearly. It can be devastating to plants. I am curious as to why you are using sulphur at all. Very curious. My results were failure with sulphur years ago. If you don't mind lady bugs, ten or so will take care of a 4x4 problem in 16 or so hours. You can order approx 5k ladybugs for 7 dollars plus shipping online. Release the rest outside and your spider mite problem will not return next year and possibly the year after that. Releasing 5k every 2 years will ensure success. They become viable in July/August usually. oh, and sorry for our other members. We all have bad days.
Hello pokesmot, I've been using the same cloning technique for several years, with 100% survival rate, until now. I usually keep them under the dome for ~10 days, then move them out and transplant. Never seen any problems, except for one incident when I had an infection that killed a few. They often display signs of sickness while still under the dome, but it continues outside of it. They don't grow (don't start growing as they used to), but just remain stunted, then one upturned leaf begins showing signs of damage, and after awhile they start wilting. All my dead plants had a pretty nice root system. Again, I'd like to stress that they continue to be sick outside the dome, where humidity is not too high (~45%), and that's where they slowly die. I never overwater, my plants, but the ones that died did seem to require a couple waterings before dying. I've been using sulfur because I still have spider mites. I'm pretty sure I can't get ladybugs in my country. Options are limited here. If the case is mold, how do I make sure? How do I treat it? Thanks, FR>
Freeradical, have you considered sulphur toxicity? http://www.amsterdammarijuanaseedbank.com/marijuana-plant-abuse.html http://www.marijuanagrowing.eu/plant-doctor/sulfur-toxicity-t34497.html As I said before it killed/stunted the plants I used it on. To make sure it's mold you will have to look under a microscope of some sort, but a trained eye can easily spot mold. I'd recommend comparing pics of your "mold" to pics online. I wasn't aware in your initial post that you were Still fighting mites. Using scientific thought, one would imagine that since you've had 100 percent success up til this point, the failure is due to a change in your methods. My advice would be a couple of options such as: 1- Sterilizing your grow area and starting over- but who wants to do that? 2- neem meal/cold pressed neem oil on the mother plants. But quite honestly, if we were discussing my plants, I would scrap the idea entirely of cloning until the problem was eradicated. The most obvious solution is to stop changing your cloning method. Since you still have mites, you're trying to clone sick plants. Before they're even able to establish themselves as healthy, you're dousing them with chemicals and over fertilizing them with sulphur, which becomes toxic in large amounts. That said, there are other options to fight mites such as: Predator mites Azomax (believe that's what it's called) Pyrethrum dunks do not work well in my experience. What country are you in? I released a single lady bug into my grow room last week and he's been munching beneficial predator mites found in fox farm soil since then. I know my post leaves more questions than answers. Believe you me, I've been frustrated all night trying to figure out an answer to your questions.
:....You are trolls, and you have highjacked a serious thread about plant illness. ...? we get all types here on GC many young and old screw balls, and been in Botany for the last 8 years never been called a troll b4 just glad you gave him his satisfaction pokes
Oh, thought you were reporting me. Confused me sooooo much. Was thinking maybe my links were not allowed or something. Was just tryin to help. Also, I highly doubt he was talkin to you tbh, since you offered insightful info IMO. Edit: actually I see now that troll comment was after your post :-/ Didn't realize callin someone a troll was an infraction. Must fall under disrespect....