Okay, here we go, been on here a while posting, and growing... I just want to compile my projects into one thread. I have a White Widow from seedsman finishing up within the next 3 or so weeks. I also have some clones from her that were flowered and revegged! 1 month old. They are from the WW as well. I also have a critical Sensi star that is about 3 weeks old! She has been my little experiment here. I have taken off all fan leaves and some bending and pinching. Also a royal queen seeds low ryder dwarf... 3 weeks old. In a 3 gallon smart pot
These will be next. It may be a week itay be less it may be more. Depends on when I get a chance to go to a store that sells what I need for my seedling organic soil make up. My next soil will be parts of (in no order) Sphagnum peat moss Horse manure Earth worms Organic humus and manure mixture I will try and find some beneficial nematodes (locally) to add as well. I will let this go through one time and see how it does for me on a full grow. If it works this will be my recycled soil recipe. I don't plan on adding anything else. The ewc will be from my worm bin if some are ready. If not I will purchase some high quality ewc to get me going. Feelings will be some mix of aloe, coconut water, and molasses in my compost teas. I am still doing my research on the best organic pest preventative measure. Any suggestions?
But your nematodes online. They need to be fresh and store shelves generally have older ones. Planet natural is where I bought mine but there are a few places to check out. Arbico? I think is another good one. A lot of people like neem oil from the ahimsa alternative. There are several brands that use it. I get mine at the hydro store called Nimbiosis. You'll need silica, aloe or dish soap. Get all three if you can but if not one or two will do. This will emulsify the oil as well as boost plant health (not soap tho). My bottle is fairly cheap. I was looking at BAS neem cause it may be cheaper in bulk. You can also use essential oils like Rosemary, peppermint or lavender instead with some silica, aloe or soap. Really want killing power, use neem and essential oils.
Thank you, I'll try that. My plants have mites. Don't seem to bother the plants. Just little tanish looking 8 legged mites. Bt I want to about bigger issues.
Neem oil was one of the few things that worked. Your plants look kinda big, but if you took cuttings and treated those in a seperate place, you can eliminate them easier by dunking. If you can get a big container for your big girls, tip them upside down in there. You can also get a shallow pan and roll the plant around till it's all wet. Then strain dirt from it and get top soil wet or drench them. Wash the floors and spray with bleach afterwards. All surfaces need to be covered by bleach or pesticides. This way you can at least control through this round and have clean clones and a sterilized room to start the next round. Good luck cause you have some leafy girls!
I'll b sure to get better ones soon... Wat yall think? I see some bee but se clear too... Wat does that mean?
Veg tent for now. I'll b adding the 3 seeds as soon as I get some sphagnum peat moss and horse manure. That will be my starter mix. I'll water with a mixture of bubbled tap water with aloe and coconut water. The aloe got me a 100% clone rate so I cannot wait to see the success I get with it for seedlings with the coconut water. I'll use teas thought the grow as well. Btw I watered my WW in flower till I got some runoff. From the tea (which was a muddy brown color) the runoff was still a light yellowish color. So I don't think I'll need to flush. I'll taste another leaf next week to make sure I'm not getting that bitter (synthetic fertilizer) taste still. I tasted one yesterday and it was fine. She has until the end of the month. I'll probably chop her on the 30th or 31st of this month. If she is ready that is. If not I'll let her run another week. I have only had 1harvest b4 and it was from a bag seed. I feel like if I let it go longer ida been more satisfied. I had maybe a light heady 30 min high. I need more. Hopefully seedsman' genetics can help me out mixed with a little time.
The WW in flower is also starting to get some frosty ass undergrowth as well since I switched to the LED. I can't wait to run the same strain again under LED all through flower. She smells like a hand full of red and purple skittles when I smelled my hand after taking this pic
I would ask on Scoob on his thread cause he just got done harvesting and looked at trichs. he's just now finishing up so I bet he would have some good advice. everyone tells me to wait longer sorry I didn't answer your question about flushing. whenever people ask about it you just get told not to do it. I'm asking someone experienced to help me find out. hopefully that will help clarify. as far as I know and I'm probably wrong on this is that you can't flush because of Cation Exchange Capacity or CEC. humus like compost and peat have a high exchange capacity so they can hold on to nutrients in the soil. heres a good explanation of how it works. <blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >So what's a “cationâ€? Think back to high school science class when we were talking about molecules, atoms, protons, electrons, positive charges, negative charges, etc…..Cations are the positively charged molecules or nutrients in our soil. These include: Ca++ (Calcium) K+ (Potassium) Mg++ (Magnesium) Al+ (Aluminum) Na+ (Salt) H+ (Hydrogen) As you might have noticed several of these are the fertilizers that we throw on our plots as well as the lime we spread (Ca++). Thinking back again to high school science class…..a positive charge needs a negative charge to bond to, right? That's where our clay particles and organic matter come into play. Clay particles as well as decomposing organic matter both have a negative charge. We all probably have a little different soil from one another, each with a different % of clay. The more clay you have present in your soil, then the more negatively charged particles you have present for these positively charged cations to bond to. In my case here in south Alabama, I have very sandy soil with a very low clay content. As a result, I have very few negatively charged particles present in the soil and this is represented by a CEC measurement of 3.8. How does this affect us as plotters? By having a low amount of negatively charged particles present, then that means that only a small amount of positively charged particles, or our cations, will be able to bond with them. In other words, only a small amount of my fertilizer and lime will actually “stick†when I throw it out. In turn that means that my soil is only able to hold and deliver a small amount of the nutrients needed for plant growth. Any extra is just wasted. So, if we have a small amount of clay present in our soil, then how do we increase the amount of negatively charged particles so that we will be able to hold more fertilizer and lime?……That's where organic matter (OM) becomes important. Organic matter also has a negative charge just like the clay and it also has an estimated CEC value of 150. Compare that to the 3.8 value of my base soil. One of the greatest benefits of increasing organic matter in your soil is that it increases the CEC. This is increasing you ability to hold “cationsâ€. Something important to realize and understand is that just because you throw out fertilizer and lime, it doesn't mean that your plants are going to be able to use them.</blockquote> so if all your exchange sites are holding nutrients, this electrical charge is not going to be influenced by flushing. flushing will only reduce certain things in your soil and most here feel at a detriment to your plants and will not help anything and only hinder. flushing works with synthetic nutes because they're not influenced by the exchange sites and aren't held there as far as I know, but I could be wrong. I think most people don't advocate flushing is because it goes against the idea that the microbes feed the plants so you shouldn't need to flush because the plants are getting the perfect amount of nutrients and this is self regulated. also, in No Till soils, the soil does not lose nutrients at the end of the grow. the soil is fully amended and many folks only reamend every other grow and not after each time. I think a lot of this depends on how long their soil has been grown in. the longer you've grown, the more organic matter OM builds and the higher the exchange capacity so therefore your soil will hold a lot more fertilizer than when it did the first round. the reason your plants start to fade is the natural life cycle of the plant. think about it outdoors in a forest!! you see a plant and it is yellowing like a fall autumn tree. this soil the plant is in has the same levels of nutrition that it did before in the spring. there's not a lot of man's influence going on there you know, pouring teas and dropping manure and yet the plant is green and completes it's life cycle and dies back. so as in nature the microbes regulate the amount of nutrition the plant gets during it's life cycle, despite what's in the soil. so if plants can yellow in heavily amended soil, there is no need for flushing. flushing is for people who add too much fertilizer and want a magic way to fix it when using raw ingredients like I use. this is as far as I can understand and I'm not claiming I'm right about it. I'm actually going to figure this out soon.
Great info, thanks! Plus I saw a few journals n most everyone recommends cutting her at 60 days. I'll see. Depends on trics
I haven't had enough harvests to know but atleast 10% amber. I cut mine at 5 and it definitely could've gone longer lol
Lol thanks man! Thank you! I have got to say I've come a LONG way in a short period of time thanks to the help here on GC Yea, that would be great. I have an idea but I'm not 100%. My plant is 6.6-7 weeks into flower. I want a nice put me on my ass high, but I also want to see what else the same strain can produce. I have a couple clones. One will probably be a mother and the other will be in my next run in the flower room. I like everything about growing the strain but want to experiment with the smokes I can get. It is a 8 week strain. When should I start taking off tester buds (I say that because from what I've read you get the couch lock high later on in the cycle) to see what all I can do with her? I don't want to cut off a whole branch if I won't get any high at all. Ya'know? Any advice on that? I have mostly clear still but I'd say 60/40 clear/cloudy.
Okay so with that said... I thought they went from clear to cloudy to amber... So clear is a no-go for harvesting right? And the cloudy is optimal time... With Amber being degraded thc? Soooo in that case is it weird that I have like maybe .5% amber. I saw a few... Could that just be from me touching the plant? Or does that only happen with pistils?
