I have compiled this from multiple sources. Since MOST problems begin with operational error, that is where I shall begin. Over Fertilization / Nute Burn This is a very common problem that can be disguised as an improper pH, or misdiagnosed as a nutrient deficiency, or light burning, as well as a myriad of other problems. If there is leaf burn starting at the tips of the leaves that works its way up the “saw blade†of the leaf it is probably due to over-fertilization. There are many problems associated with over-fertilization, some of which could be a simple imbalance of pH and a certain nutrient/micro lockout at the given pH. One FTE may become too soluble and cause the lockout of minor or major Nutrients. And the last one has been burned without sense or mercy
Heat and Light Stress Your plant can only withstand a certain amount of heat and light. After a certain point, your plant will start exhibiting signs of stress on the leaves near the sources of light and/or heat. Your leaves will get yellow or brown brown spotting and may appear generally burnt in places. Find a way to lower the temperature and/or increase the circulation in the grow room or grow area if heat is the problem. If your plants are just getting too much light, try removing some of the lights or moving your lights further away from the tops of the plants. It's best to try to keep things at a comfortable room temperature at all times for optimal growth. Multi-Nutrient Blockage Ph spotting before lockout PH lockouts Multi-Nutrient Lockout Multi-nutrient blockage arises when excess salts in the substrate bind secondary nutrients such as magnesium, iron, zinc, manganese, calcium, manganese and copper. Usually over-fertilizing with potassium and phosphorus, (present in high amounts in fertilizers used for blooming) cause such a nutrient blockage. The leaves develop a checkered appearance of yellow, brown, and white spots with necrotic edges and sometimes also inter-veinal chlorosis (yellowing). Sometimes weak plants or poor genetics are partly to blame. Symptoms can spread throughout the plant stunting growth and bud development. In such cases the substrate should be flushed thoroughly. Monitor the EC value of the excess water leaching out of the substrate. Continue flushing until it reaches an acceptable level. In soil this is always a difficult situation since you don't want to complicate matters by water-logging the soil. Flowering plants in the advanced stages of bud development may develop mold if they stand too long in soggy soil. If harvest is near you should simply stop fertilizing and live with the results. Young plants can be flushed more easily and you can also plant them in fresh soil and larger pots to let them recuperate naturally.
Nitrogen (N) Nitrogen is a key Element in the production of amino acids, amino enzymes, nucleic acids, chlorophyll, alkaloids, and purine bases. which are the building blocks of Proteins. Many plant hormones contain Nitrogen as well as Chlorophyll, DNA and RNA (Genetic materials), and a myriad of enzymes that help control and regulate growth. Nitrogen is the biggest mobile element meaning it can travel anywhere on the plant. Nitrogen Deficiency Plants will exhibit lack of vigor, slow growth and will be weak and stunted. A nitrogen deficiency will cause the older, lower leaves on your plant to start turning yellow (chlorotic) from lack of chlorophyll, and eventually die. Deficient plants will exhibit uniform light green to yellow on older leaves, these leaves may die and drop. It's relatively normal for your plant's leaves to start turning yellow towards the end of your flowering cycle as the plant becomes nitrogen deficient while it's creating its buds. Usually the deficiency will start on the lower to middle part of the plant, and then will usually happen to older leaves first. Then the deficiency will work its way up the plant. Your plant can be green on top, then yellowing on the lower leaves when the deficiency is starting out. Yield will be greatly reduced without good amounts of nitrogen in your plants. Sometimes in bad cases the leaves will turn a purplish color along with the yellowing. Unlike a magnesium deficiency, nitrogen def will start from the tips and work its way back to the leaf node. Nitrogen and Magnesium get confused. The best way to tell them apart is, nitrogen deficiency starts around the tips and works its way to the back of the leaves, where a magnesium deficiency will cover the entire outer part of the leave and make the entire leaves yellow leaving the veins to stay green. If your plants are having a slow growth rate and have yellowing of the leaves, then most likely it's a nitrogen deficiency. Towards the middle to end of flowering stages, the plant will show a nitrogen deficiency almost always. This process is completely normal and just let the plant naturally yellow out as it uses it's stored nutrients. This actually helps you by getting ready for final flushing and then harvesting. At this point DO NOT not use nitrogen to fix the problem. The yellowing leaves will then eventually drop off after the plant is done with them. Over Nitrification Now for having too much nitrogen in your growing mediums or soil. The plant will have like an overall DARK green look and have delayed maturity. Due to Nitrogen being involved in vegetative growth, to much nitrogen will result in tall plants with weak stems. New growth will be very lively and plant transpiration will be high, but not always. Over nitrification with heat stress Over nitrification with Magnesium deficiency
Nitrogen Toxicity Nitrogen toxicity can be seen when there are very very dry conditions almost as if there was a drought, which may show a burning effect. If you give your plants ammonium based nutrients they may show NH4+ toxicity, which will show a smaller plant growth and lesions that occur on stems and roots, leaf margins that will roll downward. Also the big fan leaves will have “the claw†look. The tips will point down but the leaves will stay up as if when you bend your fingers downwards. Leaves can be twisted when growing… mainly new growths. Roots will be under developed along with the slowing of flowering. Yields will be decreased, because to much nitrogen in early stages of flowering slows down bud growth. Water uptake is slowing down from the vascular breakdown of the plants as well. Too much potassium and nitrogen will lock out calcium as well. Note: During the last few weeks before harvest, plants starts pulling all the remaining nitrogen from her leaves as part of the bud-making process. This causes yellowing leaves starting towards the bottom of the plant. This is part of the natural flowering process and you don't need to fight it.You may notice that the leaves are yellowing in almost all pictures of plants with big buds that are close to harvest. You tend to get smaller yields from nitrogen-toxic plants with very dark green leaves at harvest. Normal Nitrogen deficiency end of flower PH levels for Nitrogen: Soil levels Nitrogen gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 4.0- 5.5. Nitrogen is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.0-8.0. ( wouldn't recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) best range to have nitrogen is a ph of 6-7. Anything out of that range will contribute to a nitrogen def. Hydro and Soil less Mediums Nitrogen gets locked out of Hydro, Soil less mediums at the levels of 4.5-5.0. Nitrogen has the best absorption rate at a ph of 5.5 to 8.0 (Wouldn't recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range to have Nitrogen is: 5.0-7.0. Anything out of that range will contribute to a nitrogen def.
Phosphorus (P) Phosphorous is used for plant energy by being assimilated into molecules called Adenosine-tri-phosphate, or ATP. This molecule is necessary for any plant activity that requires energy such as root growth, flowering, respiration,and vegetative growth. It is one of the most important elements in flowering as well helps to germinate seedlings. Phosphorus is a MAJORLY important nutrient in the plants reproductive stages. Without this element the plants will have a lot of problems blooming. Phosphorus Deficiency When your plants are deficient in phosphorus, plants exhibit slow or stunted growth regardless of how optimal environmental conditions may be.The common sign of phosphate deficiency is the accumulation of anthocyanin pigments which cause an overall dark green color with a purple, red, or blue tint, and smaller than normal, dark green leaves. Lower leaves yellow and eventually die. The edges all around the leaves or half of the leaves can be brownish and it can work its way inwards a bit causing part of the leaves to curl up in the air. Fan leaves will show dark greenish/purplish and yellowish tones along with a dullish blue color to them. Sometimes the stems can be red, along with red petioles. However, some strains just show the red petioles and stems from its genes. Having Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can make phosphorous absorption troublesome for plants. Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Phosphorus Toxicity This condition is rare and usually buffered by pH limitations. Excess phosphorus can interfere with the availability and stability of copper and zinc. Too much Phosphorus levels affect plant growth by suppressing the uptake of: Iron, potassium and Zinc, potentially causing deficiency symptoms of these nutrients to occur def in plants. A Zinc deficiency is most common under excessive phosphorus conditions, As well as causing other nutrients to have absorption troubles like zinc and copper. Phosphorus fluctuates when concentrated and combined with calcium PH levels for Phosphorus: Soil levels Phosphorus gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 4.0-5.5 Phosphorus is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.0-7.5 (wouldn't recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Phosphorus deficiency. Hydro and Soil less Mediums Phosphorus gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 6.0-8.5. Phosphorus is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.0- 5.8. (Wouldn't recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Phosphorus Deficiency.
Potassium (K) Potassium serves to aid in the process of photosynthesis, nutrient uptake, respiration, and is a key to sturdy stems and disease resistance. Having an adequate supply for the plant early in it's life will keep your seedlings from falling over. Potassium is involved in maintaining the water status of the plant and the tugor pressure of it's cells and the opening and closing of the stomata. Potassium is required in the accumulation and translocation of carbohydrates. Lack of potassium will reduce yield and quality. Potassium is found in the whole plant. It is necessary for all activities having to do with water transportation. Potassium is necessary for all stages of growth, especially important in the development of Buds. Potassium Deficiency The most identifiable symptom of potassium deficiency are dead, brown spots forming on the lower leaves. Deficiency in your plants causes the leaves to show retarded growth. Dark edges will appear around the edges of the leaf, followed by scorched tips and edges around the leaves. plants may stretch and your branches can be easily broken or weak. The symptoms are very similar to an iron deficiency, however for potassium, the tips of the leaves curl and the edges burn and die. Older leaves may show a red color and leaves could curl upwards. Dead patches (Necrosis) can happen on the margins of larger fan leaves. The Older leaves will show different patches of color (mottle) and turn yellow between the veins, following by whole leaves that turn dark yellow and die. The plants overall growth slows down. The plant will become susceptible to disease and toxicity. Potassium deficiency also slows the growth of buds during flowering stages. Potassium Toxicity Usually not absorbed excessively by plants. Excess potassium can aggravate the uptake of magnesium, manganese, zinc and iron and effect the availability of calcium. When you have too much Potassium in your soil, it can lead to salt damage and acid fixation of the root system. Too much potassium can cause a calcium deficiency. Your fan leaves will show a light yellow to whitish color in between the veins. Due to a molecular imbalance, potassium toxicity can cause a reduced uptake leading to lots of other deficiencies such as: magnesium, manganese, zinc and iron. Rarely, it can cause problems with calcium as well. Too much sodium (Na) displaces potassium, causing a potassium deficiency. If the problem is Na, flush the soil. potassium can get locked up from too much Calcium or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather. PH levels for Potassium: Soil levels Potassium gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 4.0-5.5 Potassium is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.0-9.5. (Wouldn't recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Potassium deficiency. Hydro and Soil less Mediums Potassium gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.0-4.5, 6.0-6.5. Potassium is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.7-5.3, 6.7-8.5. (Wouldn't recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a potassium deficiency.
Magnesium (Mg) Magnesium is a component of the chlorophyll molecule and serves as a cofactor in most enzymes. Magnesium helps supports healthy veins while keeping a healthy leaf production and its structure. Magnesium is significant for chlorophyll-production and enzyme break downs. Magnesium which must be present in relatively large quantities for the plant to survive, but yet not to much to where it will cause the plant to show a toxicity. Magnesium is analogous in plants as Iron is to Humans. In humans, Iron is the central atom in the structure of the Hemoglobin molecule, and that is what the red blood cells use to hold and deliver Oxygen throughout. Chlorophyll is of the same structure as Hemoglobin, except that it has a magnesium atom in place of the Iron atom found in Hemoglobin. Chlorophyll is how plants make sugars to feed the process of building ATP through the Krebs cycle. Magnesium Deficiency The edges of the leaves may become yellow or bright green with darker green veins and may start feeling crispy to the touch. Interveinal chlorosis begins in the older leaves starting at leaf margin or tip and progressing inward between the veins. The veins remain somewhat green. The light green or yellow coloring may also effect the veins of the leaves. Yellowing leaves on the lower portion of the plant in some cases will turn white. The veins of the leaves will remain green. Leaf blades can crisp and curl upward. The growing tips can turn lime green when the deficiency progresses to the top of the plant. Magnesium (Mg) Toxicity Magnesium toxicity is rare and not generally exhibited visibly. Extreme high levels will antagonize other ions in the nutrient solution. Excessive levels of magnesium in your plants will exhibit a buildup of toxic salts that will kill the leaves and lock out other nutrients like Calcium (Ca). Mg can get locked out by having too much Calcium, Chlorine or ammonium in your soil/water. One of the common problems occurs with a magnesium deficiency caused by a ph lockout. Common error is giving it more magnesium. You are doing more harm then good. When the plant can't take in a nutrient (because of the ph being off for that element), the plant will not absorb it, but it WILL be in the soil… causing a buildup. The buildup is shown by the outer parts of the plant becoming whitish and or a yellowish color. PH levels for Magnesium: Soil levels Magnesium gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0-6.4 Magnesium is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.5-9.1 . (Wouldn't recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Magnesium deficiency. Hydro and Soil less Mediums Magnesium gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-5.7 Magnesium is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 5.8-9.1 (Wouldn't recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Magnesium deficiency.
Calcium (Ca) Calcium plays an important role in maintaining cell integrity and membrane permeability. Calcium is an important co-enzyme in the production of fatty acids, cell membranes, and is necessary for normal mitosis/cell division. Calcium helps the plants cell walls, cell division in making the plants stems, stalks, branches stronger, as well as contributing to root growth, mostly the newer root hairs, Calcium also helps enhancing the uptake of K in the the plants roots. Calcium moves really slow within the plant and tends to concentrate in roots and older growth. Calcium Deficiency Signs of a calcium deficiency can be hard to pin down since calcium deficiencies are often accompanied by magnesium, iron, and other deficiencies. However, some of the major signs of a calcium deficiency are in the leaves which will display dead spots, crinkling, spotting, or small brown spots. Young leaves are affected first and become small and distorted or chlorotic with irregular margins, spotting or necrotic areas. Another sign of a calcium deficiency is new leaves will appear small and distorted with curled tips. Bud development is inhibited, the flowers/buds may show signs of decay. Roots may show signs of bacteria and may be dying off or be under developed. Lack of calcium will generally cause the medium to become acidic, which can cause a series of other problems (Mg or Fe becoming unavailable for absorption). Hollow stems found on harvested plants is a sign of inadequate calcium. Calcium Toxicity Difficult to distinguish visually. Excess calcium may produce deficiencies in magnesium and potassium and will lead to other micronutrient deficiencies. Calcium fixation is caused by many types of mediums such as: clay soils, unbuffered coco and humus. The lime tends to bond to these soils very easily. The stems of the plant will not be able to hold the plant up and will exhibit a white brown in between the veins of the leaves when having too much calcium. Also having to much potassium and or nitrogen will cause a calcium lockout. PH levels for Calcium: Soil levels Calcium gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0- 6.4 Calcium is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.5-9.1 (Wouldn't recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Calcium Deficiency. Hydro and Soil less Mediums Calcium gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0- 5.3 Calcium is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 5.4-5.8 (Wouldn't recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Calcium Deficiency.
Sulfur (S) Sulfur is involved in protein synthesis and is part of the amino acids, cystine and thiamine, which are the building blocks of proteins. Biotin and Thiamine as well as a myriad of other vitamins that plants synthesize themselves contain Sulfur. It is active in the structure and metabolism in the plant, as it is an important element in the structures of amino acids and proteins, and is needed for normal plant respiration and metabolism of sugars and other compounds and the breakdown of fatty acids. Sulfur plays an important role in root growth, chlorophyll supply and plant proteins. Just like iron, Sulfur moves slowly in the plant. But unlike iron, Sulfur is distributed evenly throughout the plant, mainly the big fan leaves. Sulfur is also a very important element in vegetative growth. Sulfur Deficiency A sulfur deficiency will manifest itself as all-over chlorosis (yellowing of leaves) starting with the oldest leaves and may look like a nitrogen deficiency at first aside from the pale young leaves. Leaf tips may yellow and curl downward. Leaves can also get brittle and stay narrower than normal. May have small mutated leaves. The parts that are underneath the leaves may take on a distinctive pinkish red or orange color. The buds on a flowering plant may start dying off. Unlike a magnesium deficiency where it starts from the leaves tip, sulfur starts from the back of the leaves moving forward to the middle of the leaves. The Stems become Hard, thin and may be woody. The stems will increase in length but not in diameter. Leaves become stiff and brittle and will eventually fall off. Some of the plants may show orange and red tints rather than yellowing. Sulfur Toxicity Leaf size will be reduced and overall growth will be stunted. Leaves yellowing or scorched at edges and dead looking at the tips. Excess may cause early senescence. An excess of sulfur can also look like salt damage, with restricted growth and dark color damage. PH levels for Sulfur: Soil levels Sulfur gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0-5.5 Sulfur is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.0- 9.5 (Wouldn't recommend having a soil ph of over 7.0 in soil) Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Sulfur Deficiency. Hydro and Soil less Mediums Sulfur gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-5.5 Sulfur is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 6.0- 9.5 (Wouldn't recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to an Sulfur deficiency.
Iron (Fe) Iron is an important component of plant enzyme systems for electron transport to carry electrons during photosynthesis and terminal respiration. It is a catalyst for chlorophyll production and is required for nitrate and sulfate reduction and assimilation. Iron deficiency Leaves exhibit chlorosis (yellowing) of the leaves although the veins will tend to stay green. The tissue between the veins becomes pale or white. The deficiency starts with the lower and middle leaves, while the new leaves become completely lacking in chlorophyll, but with little or no necrotic spots. The chlorotic mottling on new leaves starts first near the bases of the leaflets, so the middle of the leaf appears to have a yellow mark. Pronounced interveinal chlorosis looks similar to that caused by magnesium deficiency but mainly on the younger leaves. Iron is difficult for plants to absorb and moves really slowly in the plant. The defeciency is caused by factors that interfere with iron absorption of roots: over irrigation, excessive soluble salts, inadequate drainage, pests, high substrate pH, or nematodes. Iron Toxicity Excess accumulation is rare but could cause a problem that looks like a PH imbalance, Brown spotting on the top of leaves, mainly fan leaves. Can affect the whole plant. Iron reacts with many of the components of nutrient solutions, which will cause a nutrient lockup to occur, If you add to much Iron without adding enough Phosphorus, you can contribute to a phosphorus deficiency , so watch out how much iron and phosphorus your nutrients have. Iron is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for rockwool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that is chelated for maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read something like "iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a P-deficiency. PH levels for Iron: Soil levels Iron gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0-3.5 Iron is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 4.0-6.5 (Wouldn't recommend having a soil ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to an Iron Deficiency. Hydro and Soil less Mediums Iron gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-3.5 Iron is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.0- 6.0 (Wouldn't recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to an iron deficiency.
Zinc (Zn) Zinc plays a roll in the same enzyme functions as manganese and magnesium. More than eighty enzymes contain tightly bound zinc essential for their function. Zinc participates in chlorophyll formation and helps prevent chlorophyll destruction. Carbonic anhydrate has been found to be specifically activated by zinc. Zinc aids in the plants size and maturity as well as production of leaves, stalks, stems and branches. Zinc is an essential component in many enzymes as well as growth hormone auxin. Low auxin levels can be the cause of stunting of the plants leaves and the shoots. Zinc is also important in the formation and activity of chlorophyll. Plants that have a good level of Zinc, can handle long droughts as zinc plays an important role how plants absorb moisture. Zinc Deficiency Plants that have white areas on leaf tips or intermittently between leaf veins are displaying a zinc deficiency. This is a common problem in soils that are or have become alkaline. A Zinc deficient plant is obvious from the wispy new growth with twisted leaflets at 90. There is also intervenial chlorosis at the top of the plant that is commonly confused with an Iron deficiency. Bleached spots (chlorosis) between the veins first appears on the older leaves, and then younger leaves start yellowing in between the veins. Leaf tips get discolored and start dying. the leaves will take a unique banded appearance and the plant will stop growing vertically. This may be accompanied by a reduction of leaf size with narrow distorted leaves, and a shortening between internodes which will cause all the new leaves to start bunching together. Leaf margins are often distorted or wrinkled. Branch terminals of buds will die back in severe cases. Zinc is not mobile in plants so the symptoms will occur mainly in the newer growths. The zinc deficiency happens so suddenly, the spotting can appear to be the same symptoms to that of an iron and manganese, unless you notice the little leaf symptom. Zinc Toxicity Having an excess of Zinc is very rare, but when it does happen it can cause wilting and in worse cases death. Excess Zinc is extremely toxic and will cause rapid death. Excess zinc interferes with iron causing chlorosis from iron deficiency. Excess will cause sensitive plants to become chlorotic. PH levels for Zinc: Soil levels Zinc gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 4.5-4.7, 7.5-9.5 Zinc absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 5.0-7.0 (Wouldn't recommend having a soil ph of over 7.0 in soil) Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Zinc Deficiency. Hydro and Soil less Mediums Zinc gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 5.7-8.5 Zinc is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.0-5.5 (Wouldn't recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Zinc Deficiency.
Copper (Cu) Copper is a constituent of many enzymes and proteins. Assists in carbohydrate metabolism, nitrogen fixation and in the process of oxygen reduction. Copper plays a big role in producing healthy plants, stems, branches and new growths, as well as for the plants reproduction and maturity. Copper Deficiency Symptoms of deficiency are a reduced or stunted growth with a distortion of the younger leaves. Young leaves often become dark green and twisted, growth tips die back, green leaves will show a bluish hue and plants may have a hard time showing maturity in vegging stages. Copper deficient plants causes irregular growth and wilting in the newer growths. The Leaves at top will wilt easily along with bleaching (chlorosis) and necrotic areas in the leaves. Leaves on the top of the plant may show veinal chlorosis.(bleaching of the veins) The leaves may die back or just exhibit necrotic spots. A copper deficiency is commonly mistaken for an overfertilazation problem, but it is set apart by the growing tips dieing off first along with the crispy leaves. The new shoots will die from the tips and margins first, often going brown or even white before they die. Copper Toxicity Copper is required in very small amounts and readily becomes toxic if not carefully controlled. Excess Copper will induce iron deficiency. Root growth will be suppressed followed by symptoms of iron chlorosis, stunting, reduced side branching, with some new growths that may not open up, along with the new growth becoming thin pale green to a bluish hue. The root system will decay along with abnormal growth of the roots, seen as abnormal darkening and thickening of roots. Copper deficiencies generally crop up when there is a pH problem, so that the plant can't get to the copper even though it is there. PH levels for copper: Soil levels Copper gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0- 4.5 Copper is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 5.0-7.5 (Wouldn't recommend having a soil ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Copper deficiency. Hydro and Soil less Mediums Copper gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 6.5-9.0 Copper is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-6.0 (Wouldn't recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a copper deficiency.
Manganese (Mn) Manganese is involved in the oxidation reduction process in the photosynthetic electron transport system. It helps enzymes break down for chlorophyll and photosynthesis production, as well as it works with plant enzymes to reduce nitrates before producing proteins. Biochemical research shows that this element plays a structural role in the chloroplast membrane system, and also activates numerous other enzymes. Manganese Deficiency A Manganese deficiency exhibits a general chlorosis. Symptoms can include yellowing of leaves while the leaf veins can stay green. Can also produce a chequered effect, with mottled brown spots on the affected leaves. Dead (Necrotic) yellow spots form on top leaves, while the lower older leaves will or may have gray specks and or spots. Leaves may also shred and fall apart. High levels can cause uneven distribution of chlorophyll resulting in blotchy appearance. Restricted growth and failure to mature normally can also result. As the plant gets newer growths the plant will seem to grow away from the problem, that's why the younger leaves may be unaffected. On the top of the leaves, brown spots can appear. While the severe areas of the leaves turn brown and wither Manganese Toxicity Too much Manganese in the soil will cause an iron deficiency. The blotchy leaf tissue is caused by not enough chlorophyll synthesis. Growth rate will slow and your plants will seem to have very weak vigor caused by the excessive amount of manganese. Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. PH levels for Manganese: Soil levels Manganese gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0-5.0 Manganese is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 5.5-6.5 (Wouldn't recommend having a soil ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Manganese Deficiency. Hydro and Soil less Mediums Manganese gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-4.5 Manganese is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 5.0-5.6 (Wouldn't recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a manganese deficiency.
Molybdenum (Mo) Molybdenum has proteins that help the plant take nitrogen from the air. Molybdenum is a component of two major enzyme systems involved in the nitrate reeducates, this is the process of conversion of nitrate to ammonium. Molybdenum Deficiencies The initial symptoms may appear similar to a nitrogen deficiency (older leaves yellowing with rolled margins and stunted growth). It develops severely twisted younger leaves which eventually die. Leaves may become mottled or spotted. A Molybdenum deficient plant will exhibit yellowing necrotic lesions present from the tips inward. A Molybdenum deficiency causes leaves to have a pale, fringed and scorched look. The tell-tale sign of a molybdenum deficiency is the leaves may start to display a unique orange, red or pink color around the edges which will start to move toward the center of the leaf. Sometimes the color appears in the middle of the leaves as opposed to the edges. It occurs on the middle of the plant, distinguishing itself, then progressing to the entire plant. Generally a molybdenum deficiency occurs when sulfur and phosphorus are deficient. Molybdenum Toxicity Molybdenum toxicity doesn't cause to many problems, but may cause problems when the human ingests it. Excessive molybdenum in the plant will look like iron or copper deficiency. Excess may cause discoloration of leaves depending on plant species. This condition is rare but could occur from accumulation by continuous application. Used by the plant in very small quantities. Excess mostly usually does not effect the plant, however the consumption of high levels by grazing animals can pose problems so it might not be too good to smoke. PH levels for Molybdenum Soil levels Molybdenum gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0-6.5 Molybdenum is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 7.0-9.5 (Wouldn't recommend having a soil ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Molybdenum deficiency. Hydro and Soil less Mediums Molybdenum gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-5.5 Molybdenum is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 6.0-8.0 (Wouldn't recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Molybdenum deficiency.
Boron (B) Boron biochemical functions are yet uncertain, but evidence suggests it is involved in the synthesis of one of the bases for nucleic acid (RNA uracil) formation. It may also be involved in some cellular activities such as division, differentiation, maturation and respiration. Boron is important when dealing with maturation, pollen germination and seed production. As well as keeping calcium in soluble forms and keeping the stems, stalks, branches strong. Born keeps good color on the leaves and helps produce the plants structure. Boron also aids in cell division and protein formation. Boron Deficiency Plants deficient in boron exhibit brittle abnormal growth at shoot tips exemplified by small gray or necrotic patches. One of the earliest symptoms is failure of root tips to elongate normally. Stem and root apical meristems often die. Root tips often become swollen and discolored. Internal tissues may rot and become host to fungal disease. Leaves show various symptoms which include drying, thickening, distorting, wilting, and chlorotic or necrotic spotting. Another sign of a boron deficiency is abnormal or thick growth tips. New leaves may display chlorosis (yellowing of leaves). Stems may become rough or hollow. The plant may look like it has a calcium deficiency because boron is needed for the plant to properly use calcium. New growth is affected the most, and may look like it's been burnt or scorched. Boron deficiencies will show up first in younger leaves (they may turn yellow), then moves up the plant. Boron deficiency plants are easy to tell, because of the spotting the leaves show like a strawberry mark and or splashes of the marking. Boron Toxicity Yellowing of leaf tips progressing inwards, followed by necrosis of the leaves beginning at tips or margins and progressing inward before leaves die and prematurely fall off. Some plants are especially sensitive to boron accumulation. Can show same signs as a magnesium deficiency, but only happens on newer growths. Boron is poorly absorbed with low potassium content. PH levels for Boron: Soil levels Boron gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0-5.0 Boron is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 5.0-7.0 (Wouldn't recommend having a soil ph of over 7.0 in soil) Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Boron deficiency. Hydro and Soil less Mediums Boron gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-5.0 Boron is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 5.0-6.0(Wouldn't recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a boron deficiency. Silicon (Si) Silicon usually exists in solution as silicic acid and is absorbed in this form. It accumulates as hydrated amorphous silica most abundantly in walls of epidermal cells, but also in primary and secondary walls of other cells. It is largely available in soils and is found in water as well. Inadequate amounts of silicon can reduce tomato yields as much as 50%, cause new leaves to be deformed and inhibit fruit set. At this time toxicity symptoms are undetermined. Cobalt (Co) Cobalt is essential to many beneficial bacteria that are involved in nitrogen fixation of legumes. It is a component of vitamin B12 which is essential to most animals and possibly in plants. Reports suggest that it may be involved with enzymes needed to form aromatic compounds. Otherwise, it is not understood fully as to its benefit to plant growth, but it is considered essential to some animal health issues. Sodium (Na) Sodium seems to encourage crop yields and in specific cases it acts as an antidoting agent against various toxic salts. It may act as a partial substitute for potassium deficiencies. Excess may cause plant toxicity or induce deficiencies of other elements. If sodium predominates in the solution calcium and magnesium may be affected. Nickel (Ni) Nickel is required by plants for proper seed germination Though Nickel deficiency symptoms are not well documented. Symptoms include chlorosis and interveinal chlorosis in young leaves that that goes down to plant tissue necrosis. Other things are poor seed germination and decreases in crop yield.
Foliar sprays for pest control: Week 1,3,5 et al. until early flower: Finely chop 1 onion and 2 medium cloves of garlic. Put ingredients into a blender with 2 cups of water and blend on high. Strain out pulp. Pour liquid into spray bottle. Spray a fine mist on plants, making sure to coat both tops and bottoms of leaves. Week 2,4,6 et al. until early flower: Mix of 1 gram AgSil 16H with 1 ounce Neem Oil to emulsify the oil. Then mix this emulsified oil with one gallon final volume clean water. Spray every other week covering all plant surfaces (top and bottom of leaves NOT BUDS) until it runs off. When you spray the plants, and make sure you get the undersides of the leaves(that's where they lay eggs). Do not spray buds unless very early flower. You'll want to do this when the lights are about to go off (or else the leaves will get burned).
Aphids Aphids are soft-bodied insects which can be green, yellow, black, brown or red. They are usually small and oval-shaped, and may have dicernable wings or antennae. Aphids use their piercing, sucking mouth-parts to feed on the sap of plants and usually occur in colonies located on the undersides of stems or leaves. If a plant becomes heavily-infested, its leaves can turn yellor or wilt due to the excessive sap removal. Aphids produce large amounts of a substance known as "hondeydew," a sugary liquid waste. Honeydew drops from these insects and can causes spots on the windows and finish of cars which are parked under infested plants. A fungus called sooty mold can grow on honeydew deposits which accumulate on the leaves and branches of your plant, turning them black. Many times, an aphid infestation is only noticed after the first appearance of sooty mold. The drops of sweet honeydew can also attract other insects such as ants. An infestations is generally the result of a small numbers of winged aphids that fly to the plant and take it up as their new host. Winged aphids deposit several wingless young on the tender undersides of leaves/steams before moving on to find a new plant. Immature aphids, or nymphs, that are left behind, feed on plant sap and increase gradually in size. They mature in 7 to 10 days and then are ready to produce live young. Usually, all of them are females and each is capable of producing 40 to 60 offspring. The process is repeated several times, resulting in a tremendous population explosions. Less than a dozen aphid "colonizers" can produce hundreds to thousands of aphids on a plant in a few weeks. Aphid numbers can build until conditions are so crowded, or the plant is so stressed, that winged forms are produced. These winged forms fly off in search of new hosts and the process is repeated. Early detection is the key to reducing aphid infestations. The flight of winged colonizers cannot be predicted, so weekly examination of plants will help to determine the need for control. Examine the bud area and undersides of the new leaves for clusters or colonies of small aphids. The presence of these colonies indicates that the aphids are established on the plants and their numbers will begin to increase rapidly. Beneficial insects, such as lady beetles, lady bugs, and lacewings may eat large numbers of aphids but the reproductive capability of aphids is so great that the impact of the natural enemies may not be enough keep these insects at or below acceptable levels.
Spider Mites Spider mites are not insects but are more closely related to spiders. These arachnids have four pairs of legs, no antennae and a single, oval body region. Most spider mites have the ability to produce a fine silk webbing. Spider mites are very tiny, being less than 1/50 inch (0.4mm) long when adults. Spider mites have tiny mouthparts modified for piercing individual plant cells and removing the contents. This results in tiny yellow or white speckles. When many of these feeding spots occur near each other, the foliage takes on a yellow or bronzed cast. Once the foliage of a plant becomes bronzed, it often drops prematurely. Heavily infested plants may be discolored, stunted or even killed. Web producing spider mites may coat the foliage with the fine silk which collects dust and looks dirty. Spider mite species seem to be warm weather or cool weather active pests. The two spotted, European red, honeylocust, and oak spider mites do best in dry, hot summer weather. The spruce and southern red spider mites do best in cool spring and fall weather. All spider mites go through the same stages of development. Adult females usually lay eggs on their host plants. The eggs hatch in days to weeks into the first stage, called a larva. Larvae are round bodied and have only three pairs of legs. The larvae feed for a few days, seek a sheltered spot to rest and then molt into the first nymphal stage. The first nymph now has four pairs of legs. The first nymphs feed a few days, rest and molt into the second nymph. The second nymphs feed, rest and molt into the adult stage. The males are usually the size of the second nymph and have pointed abdomens. The females have rounded abdomens and are the largest mites present. Most spider mites spend the winter in the egg stage but the twospotted spider mite over winters as adult females resting in protected places. Early detection of spider mites, before damage is noticed, is VERY important. The tiny spider mites can be detected only by a full and thorough leaf inspection (on both sides of the leaf). If you find Spider Mites you must act fast and hit them hard.
Whitefly White flies behave just like spider mites. The insect hides underneath the leaf, sucks dinner from the essential nutrients in the plant. This results in white spots on the top side of the leaf. White flies are easily spotted with the naked eye. If you shake the plant a little, they'll fly around. They look like little white moths, around 2 millimeters in size.
Thrips Thrips are small, fast-moving insects with wings. They rasp, or grate the leaves open, and suck the sap out. Thrips prefer flowering tops, and fresh, young leaves. Affected leaves have shiny, silvery spots. This is caused by the thrips sucking the chlorophyll out of the leaves. In spite of the fact that they're small, you can see them marching in columns on an infested plant. Thrips can be fought with predatory insects, the thrips' natural enemy is Amblyseius cucumeris.