EXP ONLY PLZ- HYDRO+ chlorine/chloramine/pool shock as daily regimen.

[quote name='"zoomme"']

I agree. I'm not good at that whole forever thing. I don't think I'll ever find it because I don't look. I'm happy with my life. Not everyone is made for marriage. I didn't mean the comment to sound snide or shity. Just one of the many things I enjoy about being a me and not a we.[/quote]

you didn't come off bad....I just said life is better on this side of the fence...I was not looking either

 

[quote name='"Dustybowlz"']Ya I didn't think it was snoody. I think finding a woman to suit ones personality is a gift and a true pleasure.

Im actually best friends now with my wife. My friends and I are taking different paths so its nice to still have my wife who doubles sd my best friend. I more so like to brag her up. She's the best.

I to have a spending habbit[/quote]

I think that spending habit is common among blades lol

 

Next time ur go to clean ur system use the recommend amount of the physan20 and don't turn ur air stones on this will stop all bubbles from pushing the lids off the system I run the same system as u do. Also a bottle cleaner from wall mart to clean inside the 2 inch PVC connections. A really helpful tip is also use a shop vac to suck out any remaning water in the system after cleaned

 

Lol you described how I clean it perfectally, sons of bitches sure arnt slime friendly in that regard... Shop vac best thing ever to help empty an clean.

 

Don't know if it something that you would want to try, but my Grandfather used to drill wells and he built a DIY water filter that removed iron, it aerated the water to let the iron oxidize to the brown slime then he used a sand filter to remove it. The catch was you need a holding tank for the iron to fully oxidize, then another pump to supply the house from the filtered tank.

 

Well I tried chlormines in the the cloner bucket and it pervented the slime for like 3 days but then it was back in full force. I will be trying a ewc tea this week?

 

This is probably not new to you, but I thought it interesting.
Tiger

the management of water-supply wells, iron bacteria are bacteria that derive the energy they need to live and multiply by oxidizing dissolved ferrous iron (or the less frequently available manganese). The resulting ferric oxide is insoluble, and appears as brown gelatinous slime that will stain plumbing fixtures, and clothing or utensils washed with the water carrying it. They are known to grow and proliferate in waters containing as low as 0.1mg/l of iron. However, at least 0.3 ppm of dissolved oxygen is needed to carry out oxidation.

Common effects of excess iron in water are a reddish-brown color and stained laundry. Iron bacteria are a natural part of the environment in most parts of the world. These microorganisms combine dissolved iron or manganese with oxygen and use it to form rust-colored deposits. In the process, the bacteria produce a brown slime that builds up on well screens, pipes, and plumbing fixtures.

Bacteria known to feed on iron are Thiobacillus ferrooxidans and Leptospirillum ferrooxidans.
Contents
[hide]

1 Habitat
2 Possible indicators
3 Prevention
4 Control
4.1 Shock chlorination
5 See also
6 References

[edit] Habitat

Iron bacteria colonize the transition zone where de-oxygenated water from an anaerobic environment flows into an aerobic environment. Groundwater containing dissolved organic material may be de-oxygenated by microorganisms feeding on that dissolved organic material. Where concentrations of organic material exceed the concentration of dissolved oxygen required for complete oxidation, microbial populations with specialized enzymes can reduce insoluble ferric oxide in aquifer soils to soluble ferrous hydroxide and use the oxygen released by that change to oxidize some of the remaining organic material:[1]

H2O + Fe2O3 → 2Fe(OH)2 + O2
(water) + (Iron[III] oxide) → (Iron[II] hydroxide) + (oxygen)

When the de-oxygenated water reaches a source of oxygen, iron bacteria use that oxygen to convert the soluble ferrous iron back into an insoluble reddish precipitate of ferric iron:[2]

2Fe(OH)2 + O2 → H2O + Fe2O3
(Iron[II] hydroxide) + (oxygen) → (water) + (Iron[III] oxide)

Since the latter reaction is the normal equilibrium in our oxygen atmosphere while the first requires biological coupling with a simultaneous oxidation of carbon, organic material dissolved in water is often the underlying cause of an iron bacteria population. Groundwater may be naturally de-oxygenated by decaying vegetation in swamps; and useful mineral deposits of bog iron ore have formed where that groundwater has historically emerged to be exposed to atmospheric oxygen.[3] Anthropogenic sources like landfill leachate, septic drain fields, or leakage of light petroleum fuels like gasoline are other possible sources of organic materials allowing soil microbes to de-oxygenate groundwater.

A similar reversible reaction may form black deposits of manganese dioxide from dissolved manganese, but is less common because of the relative abundance of iron (5.4 percent) in comparison to manganese (0.1 percent) in average soils.[4] Other conditions associated with iron bacteria result from the anaerobic aqueous environment rather than the iron bacteria visibly colonizing that habitat. Corrosion of pipes is another source of soluble iron for the first reaction above and the sulfurous smell of rot or decay results from enzymatic conversion of soil sulfates to volatile hydrogen sulfide as an alternative source of oxygen in anaerobic environments.[5]
[edit] Possible indicators

Clues which indicate that iron bacteria may be present in well water:

Iron bacteria often produce unpleasant tastes and odors commonly reported as
swampy
oily or petroleum
cucumber
sewage
rotten vegetation
musty

The taste or odor may be more noticeable after the water has not been used for some time.

Iron bacteria will usually cause yellow, orange, red, or brown stains and colored water
It is sometimes possible to see a rainbow colored, oil-like sheen on the water.
Iron bacteria produce a sticky slime which is typically rusty in color, but may be yellow, brown, or grey.
A feathery or filamentous growth may also be seen, particularly in standing water such as a toilet tank.

A burn in Scotland with Iron bacteria.

The dramatic effects of iron bacteria are seen in surface waters as brown slimy masses on stream bottoms and lakeshores or as an oily sheen upon the water. More serious problems occur when bacteria build up in well systems. Iron bacteria in wells do not cause health problems, but they can reduce well yields by clogging screens and pipes.
[edit] Prevention

Iron bacteria can be introduced into a well or water system during drilling, repair, or service. Elimination of iron bacteria once a well is heavily infested can be extremely difficult. Normal treatment techniques may be only partly effective. Good housekeeping practices can prevent iron bacteria from entering a well[6]:

Water placed in a well for drilling, repair, or priming of pumps should be disinfected, and should never be taken from a lake or pond.
The well casing should be watertight, properly capped, and extend a foot or more above ground.
When pumps, well pipes, and well equipment are repaired, they should not be placed on the ground where they could pick up iron bacteria.
The well, pump, and plumbing should be disinfected when repaired.

[edit] Control

Treatment techniques which may be successful in removing or reducing iron bacteria include physical removal, pasteurization, and chemical treatment. Treatment of heavily infected wells may be difficult, expensive, and only partially successful.

Physical removal is typically done as a first step in heavily infected wells. The pumping equipment in the well must be removed and cleaned, which is usually a job for a well contractor or pump installer. The well casing is then scrubbed by use of brushes or other tools. Physical removal is usually followed by chemical treatment. Pasteurization has been successfully used to control iron bacteria. Pasteurization involves a process of injecting steam or hot water into the well and maintaining a water temperature in the well of 60 C (140 degrees Fahrenheit) for 30 minutes. Pasteurization can be effective, however, the process may be expensive.

Chemical treatment is the most commonly used iron bacteria treatment technique. The three groups of chemicals typically used include: surfactants; acids (and bases); and disinfectants, biocides, and oxidizing agents.

Surfactants are detergent-like chemicals such as phosphates. Surfactants are generally used in conjunction with other chemical treatment. It is important to use chlorine or another disinfectant if phosphates are used, since bacteria may use phosphates as a food source.

Acids have been used to treat iron bacteria because of their ability to dissolve iron deposits, destroy bacteria, and loosen bacterial slime. Acids are typically part of a series of treatments involving chlorine, and at times, bases. Extreme caution is required to use and properly dispose of these chemicals. Acid and chlorine should never be mixed together. Acid treatment should only be done by trained professionals.

Disinfectants are the most commonly used chemicals for treatment of iron bacteria, and the most common disinfectant is household laundry bleach, which contains chlorine. Chlorine is relatively inexpensive and easy to use, but may have limited effectiveness and may require repeated treatments. Effective treatment requires sufficient chlorine strength and time in contact with the bacteria, and is often improved with agitation. Continuous chlorine injection into the well has been used, but is not normally recommended because of concerns that the chlorine will conceal other bacterial contamination and cause corrosion and maintenance problems.
[edit] Shock chlorination

"Shock" chlorination is the process of introducing a strong chlorine solution into the well, usually at a concentration of 1000 parts per million or more. Ideally, the well should be pumped until clear, or physically cleaned before introducing chlorine. Approximately 2 gallons of chlorine bleach can be mixed with at least 10 gallons of water, and poured into the well. If possible, the chlorinated water should be circulated through the well and household plumbing by running the water back into the well through a clean hose, washing down the sides of the well casing. The chlorinated water should be drawn into the household plumbing and remain overnight, and if possible for 24 hours. Heavy infestations of iron bacteria may require repeated disinfections. Shock chlorination may only control, not eliminate, iron bacteria.

Before attempting to chlorinate, or doing any maintenance on a well, it is important to disconnect the electricity and understand how the well and water system works. It is usually advisable to hire a licensed pump installer or well contractor.

High concentrations of chlorine may affect water conditioning equipment, appliances such as dishwashers, and septic systems. You may want to check with the manufacturer of the appliances before chlorinating. The equipment can be bypassed, however, iron bacteria or other organisms may remain in the units and spread through the water system. It may be possible to disinfect the well with higher chlorine concentrations; and if the water storage and treatment units are not heavily infected, disinfect the treatment unit and piping with lower concentrations circulated through the water system.

After the chlorine has been in the well and plumbing overnight or for 24 hours, the water should be pumped out. If possible, water with high chlorine concentrations should not be disposed of in the septic system. It may be possible to discharge the water to a gravel area, run the water into a tank or barrel until the chlorine dissipates, or contract with a hauler to properly dispose of the water. Water from the well should not be consumed until the chlorine has been removed

 

He used sand that had been washed, filtered and graded. I don't know where he got it, (this was in the 70's) it came in bags and was white, he said it worked better, but in a pinch he would use plain sand.
He had a few different variations of the set-up, his favorite was a concrete vat that he built with three compartments, he used a float valve to maintain the water level and from the valve he had a water line running to a water aeration tower, similar to a cooling tower. the water then fell into the first compartment, most of the iron was oxidized there, he had a way to drain/skim off the floating slime. the next compartment was fed water through an opening from the bottom of the first one, about four inches from the top of the second compartment there was a pipe that allowed the water to the filtering compartment. He had a well point screen at the bottom (which connected to a pump and pressure tank) covered with coarse gravel, then a layer of smaller gravel, topped with pea gravel, next coarse sand, and finally the fine sand. about every six months he would drain the system, wash it out and replace the fine sand, worked really well, on some systems he would add a chlorinator. It may not have gotten rid of all the bacteria but it removed the iron and minerals that it fed on and never stained anything, he used to root clones and other plants in it with no problems, the water stayed clear.
Tiger

 

Wow, here I am trying to find a way to remove Chloramine from my water, while you are putting it in everyday. It's amazing how much one persons grow can differ so greatly from another.

 

I need an update on your bacteria problem, please.

I just put pool shock (calcium hypochlorite) into my hydro system at the rate of 1 teaspoon/100 gallons (a 16 ounce bag is supposed to treat a 10,000 gallon pool). We'll see what it looks like tomorrow.

 

dusty is on hiatus, don't hold your breath...

 

Any updates on this Dustybowlz?  I've been fighting what I thought was the "brown slime" for a year now and just came across some info on iron bacteria and then this thread.
 
My well water tested at only .004 ppm iron, but my toilet tank is brown which was one of the things that makes me think I am in fact having iron bacteria issues.  Also the fact that it seems to love my air stone, I read oxygenating the water can make this stuff thrive even more.
 
It always starts out as a whitish/yellowish slime that covers the ends of my aquarium heater, then brown speckles appear on my floating thermometer and on the water line on the edge of my reservoir.  I used a rag with chlorine to clean off the crap that was on the sides, added in extra chlorine and the next day there was yellow mucus stuff on the sides starting to grow again.  It eventually turns brown and there is always brown crap on the bottom of my res, which I thought was silt from my grow rocks but it may be some of both.
 
Here's a few pics, the air stone has it the worst atm.