no... i know what an ozonator is.... i constantly look for cheap one's on ebay and local hydro shops, all over the place... What i don't understand is how you connect your wires... where the arc is happening... none of it... I just wish there were like thousands of pictures of your build... mundane stuff... I've made loads of stuff off GC... and as long as there are pictures i have no problems... Maybe i ask too much... I just think this could be the best DIY out there... its just lacking a little 1+1=2.... I need basic... but, I'm just one guy... keep us posted with your latest build... maybe more pictures.... and how you mount it...
FWIW, I didn't mean that to sound pompous at all, if it did. As for the prints, I don't have any right now, but I will do my best to get some done this week. I will post them as sceenshots.
I did not see it mentioned, but there are three kinds of plug wires I know of. Most common is "resister" which has built in resistance so you do not hear popopopopopopopop in your radio...these look like little carbon hairs inside if you strip them down. Then there is old fashioned wires that used copper I think ???Might still find them on lawn/garden stuff. Then there is spiral core, that has a stainless wire wrapped as tight as it can go around a central core that looks like a "resistance" wire. The wound wire acts as a resister to avoid the popopop but conducts electricity better. I would try the spiral core I think. Moroso Blue Max Spiral Core Plug Wires - JEGS And I would suggest trying to use the pre installed ends on factory made wires...their machine does a much nicer job...BUT the wire kits often come with a crimper you use in a vise, and some wire crimping pliers have a place to crimp plug wires.
Awesome explination of the different plug wire types!!! One thing my dad DIDN'T teach me!!! Definately looking into that. As for the prints, they are slow-going. Family....design and pre-fab of my next garden....you guys know. The prints ARE in the works, FYI.
A camera has a small disk of glass in front. There is a button on top. Point the glass at image to capture, depress button and release. Then copy to computer, click the paper clip icon when posting, and boom. Done. That's easier than building blue prints. I wanna see too. I'm like him. the go tumbling into my brain and get all piled on top of each other. I'd much rather be able to see what I'm reading about. I didn't know what women's parts looked like until I could see them either. But that was a fun story for another time.
"A camera has a small disk of glass in front. There is a button on top. Point the glass at image to capture, depress button and release. Then copy to computer, click the paper clip icon when posting, and boom. Done." Wow....that was a bit under the belt. I will assume for now that you were being a smart-ass. I didn't mean that I don't know HOW to use one. Perhaps it would have been better if I had said my digital camera doesn't take very good close-up shots....Obviously, I do know how, otherwise you would have ONLY text to figure out what I did. Now that my camera is broken, the only thing I have is my engineering software... So, some more pics.... First pic is from the end. You can see my 6" axial at the far end. You are looking at the end of the emitter assembly (the EXHAUST end). Second pic is looking at the top of the emitter assembly (I took this pic BEFORE I put the aluminum tape on the bottom). Third is also looking at the emitter, only from the bottom (the side that is covered with the aluminum tape). The last pic is from the same end as in the first, only with the lights off. Those of you familiar with ozonators know what that purple line is. Those that aren't...that is the arc crated by the transformer trying to pass 12k volts through the glass, which generates the ozone. These pics reflect EXACTLY how my unit is built and operating today.
Same here...as far as the wife goes!!! I have OCD and our first grow has been...interesting...to say the least!!! I borrowed my friend's digital microscope and god some killer tric-porn tonight!!! Will try to post a few of those pics later tonight, but that will be in my grow journal.
ok.. this is something i can work with how are the sheets of metal attached to the glass? hot glue? is there a space or is it connected directly to the glass which sheet of metal has the positive wire attached to it? where is the return wire? why the tape on the backside of the glass? this causes the arc?
Yes, I attached mine with hot glue. In retrospect, I would 'rough-up' (IE: etch, bead-blast GENTLY) the areas on the glass you are going to hot-glue to. When I went to clean under my plates, the hot glue had separated from the glass. Yes, there is a gap between the plates and the glass the tape however is attached directly to the glass). I think mine are now at just over 1/16" (I used a zip-tie). Put whatever you are going to use as a spacer between the plate and the glass. Hold the plate still while you apply the hot glue. If you start with two opposite corners, you can let-go of the plate as you glue the other corners. MAKE SURE WHATEVER YOU USE AS A SPACER WHILE GLUING YOU CAN PULL OUT AFTER THE GLUE DRIES!!! As time goes on, the will be some build-up on the plates. This is normal. Keep a couple of your 'spacers' so you can clean out the gap. With a neon transformer, as far as I know, there is no 'positive' or 'negative'. One wire is attached to the screens you glued on one side of the glass, the other is attached to the aluminum tape on the other side of the glass. The purpose of the tape on one side of the glass is to create one of the electrodes. The glued plates (with the gap) create the other. The glass is enough of an insulator that the arc does not jump (like when you are arc-welding), but not too much of an insulator to prevent an arc all-together. The arc (again, as far as I know) is created by the shear amount of voltage that the transformer puts out. FWIW I did try out another option for the glued plates. Without a pic, I don't know If I will lose 'ya, but here goes: Solid aluminum tape on BOTH sides of the glass. On ONE side, cut some squares out of the middle of the tape. Attach wires as normal. The arc is now generated ALL AROUND the one side with the holes cut out. Instead of the surface area between the plates and the glass, the surface area is now all around the edge of the tape. I tried it only because I had to clean under the screens. With tape on both sides of the glass, there is no area to clean. Downside: It did not put out as much ozone as the lifted plates. Might work for someone on a smaller scale.
Officially, I have given up on the DIY ozone generator. Just too much left in question. When the budget allows, I am going to buy one of the Uvonair ones. All for now. -Bender