My beautiful buds are dying help!

Discussion in 'Sick Plants and Problems' started by trythefish, Sep 10, 2010.

  1. hello to all

    ill start off telling you im growing outdoors
    growing OG KUSH
    its about a month and a half into flowering.
    using smart pots(for those of you who dont know who they are i highly recomend them they are the best)
    im using cocoa not soil.
    i have had spider mites for about 3 weeks now or longer
    but i have been spraying them with
    ED ROSENTHALS ZERO TOLERANCE HERBAL PESTICIDE.


    it has definetly helped get rid of them but i still have them all over my plant but it doesnt seem too bad.

    using foxfarms nutes.
    ph is 5.5-5.7 (thats for cocoa)


    so it looks like some of my buds are just dying.
    i dont know why and i cant figure it out.
    im thinking its the spider mites but i dont know how thats possible.
    i dont see any webs on the buds and the leaves around the buds have only few spider mites.
    but the leaves that come out of the buds are dying and the buds are dying.
    i dont know what to do.


    im only using this herbal pesticide every 3 to 4 days.
    should i use it more on the infected area???
    HELPPPP

    im freaking out this is too much weed to just let die
    please help me.


    on photo 2 you can see the back right 2 buds are the ones that are dying as you can see
     

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  2. i would just think that all of my leaves would turn yellow and die before the buds started dying if it was spider mites
     
  3. Um.. Can't tell for sure but that looks like bud rot.

    What is your humidity level like? are you leaving the excess spray to sit on the buds?

    Is that part squishy, and brown?
     
  4. i,m going to say bud rot too
     
  5. :c sorry to hear that
     
  6. damn never heard of that before.
    i live in southern california about a mile away from the beach so it pretty wet in the air

    what do i do about it!
    it seems to be spreading quickly and if i loose this plant because of this i will be devestated.
    what do i do?
     
  7. i dont really spray the buds that are infected. i just spray all of the underside of leaves and mostly on the bottom nugs
     
  8. and yes it is squishy and brown
     
  9. cut the buds that have the rot off and spray the plant with neem oil
    that may help
     
  10. damn so i literally just chop the buds off?
    oh my this sucks
     
  11. when i had spider mites i just got a spray bottle and got some jalapeno peppers in water let them sit for a few days until it becomes mostly liquid from the peppers and add a bit of soap so that the jalapeno water sticks to the leaves so when the spider mites try to eat the leaf it burns the fuck out of their mouth and they end up leaving and go to find another drop to infest. worked for me but i had the mites when my girls were about 4 weeks old.DONT SPRAY THIS MIXTURE ON YOUR BUDS. or you will have foul tasting nugs:smoking::smoking:
     
  12. well i started cutting off my buds and i looked down and i sawa fucking catepillar.
    i little one and it freaked me out.
    could my buds be doing this because of catepillars?
     
  13. Well, i can reassure you that pests aren't your problem here, bud rot is not caused by insects, its caused by environment.

    Obviously, your plants are exposed to too much moisture, which will usually cause the buds to rot, or maybe even accuire mold. If you're growing outside, theres not much you can do. You could harvest early (if you are a week or two from harvest) but if your still a ways away from harvest, i'd really try to move your plants inside to a dry place and add some air circulation as well.

    Caterpillars will just eat the leaves, and leave small holes in the leaves, but they won't eat the buds. The reason Cannabis produces THC (and CBN) is actually quite interesting. Its a defence mechanism against animals, because they don't like the effects that it gives them, however, we humans find it quite enjoyable :smoking:
     
  14. i have another plant right next to this one. and its more sativa i think. the buds are more fuffier. im not sure what chem dog is but its looks like a sativa. and it doesn have any bud rot at all nothing. while the plant which is literally touching it for the last month has bud rot.
    is that weird that the chem dog didnt get it?
     
  15. it might be cut worms not bud rot just look for the worms
    and kill them all and you should be ok
     
  16. Hey Fish, read this. You may find it helpful.

    JaK


    BER is a complex physiological problem and since it's a multi-million dollar problem for the commercial vegetable industry since it can affect not just tomatoes but squash and peppers and cabbage and cauliflower and more, much research has been done in the last 20 years or so and the results have shown that Ca++ is just one part of the problem.

    BER is the result of Ca++ not getting to the bottom of fruits/vegetables b'c the normal transport of Ca++ in the plant is disturbed due to stress and so it's maldistribution of Ca++ in the plant that can cause BER.

    There are many conditions that can stress plants to cause this maldistribution and they include too hot, too cold, too windy, too dry, too wet, but the two most common factors are too much N or growing in too rich soil, which causes rapid growth of the plant which is a major stress, and uneven distribution of water.

    About the only factors that can be controlled to some degree are uneven distribution of water, which is difficult for many since where I live, for instance, water comes out of the sky, ahem, but muching has been shown to help.

    Too much N or growing in too rich soil can also be addressed.

    The problem is not uptake of Ca++ from the soil b'c it's been shown that plant tissues from plants that have BER fruits have plenty of Ca++ in the tissues, but it doesn't get to the bottom of the fruits.

    The two major exceptions to Ca++ uptake are those soils that have no Ca++, which is rare indeed, and also where soils are very acidic which ties up the Ca++, but acidic soils can also be amended, and the acidic soil problem is also not that common.

    So variety X can have BER in one season and not the next season b'c of all the variables. And different varieties can be more or less susceptible to it. No, there is no list of varieties that are less susceptible that I know of , again, b'c of all the uncontrolled other variables.

    Paste tomato types often have more BER problems than others.

    If just adding Ca++ to the planting hole/soil would solve the problem BER would not be a problem for the vegetable industry. But that's not the case.

    Maybe some of you have cut open a fruit and seen black areas inside the tomato and that's called internal BER and although more rare can also occur.

    All this research towards solving the BER problem has not resulted in any easy cure or prevention for BER but it has identified many of the stresses that can lead to it.
     
  17. In the pic, the buds in the back are the ones affected... It looks like they could be really close to the sliding glass Window, and the concrete wall. Both wick up moisure. Buds are close enough without air circulation BAM problems.

    Maybe just rotate your plant everyday after you cut the affected parts out
     
  18. I had the same prob last year, it was unusually humid here, though its normally humid anyway. I had planted some Satori (from Mandala) and they were said to be mold resistant. I'd also planted some White Widow-which were not. I lost ALL the white widow and only a few buds from the Satori, which I trimmed as soon as I saw the first brown powdery spots. Also buds that are fluffier can get more air circulation and therefore dont seem to be as succeptable to the rot. So I certainly sympathize with you. Peace GH
     

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