What is the exact brand and model of the bulb? I'm curious to see what the spectral distribution of your lights looks like. It would help you know where you stand too. Let me know an I'll try to look it up...
Amoril: I recently bought a 70watt HPS light to supplement my LED cabinet, and I remembered our conversation. I figured I'd try to seek out more of your opinions... Here's the rundown so far: I got sick of CFL's. I'll finally admit it here for all to see. Yeah they're great to play with. Cheap etc, but they basically just let new growers get some experience for cheap. They carry a host of problems and I got sick of it. They can't be individually vented so they could actually run hotter if you start running a ton of them... They got to be a pain in the ass to aim properly, and since they have a lumen-output half-life, I gt sick of looking at them and trying to "guess" if they were still as strong as they once were, or for that matter, needing to track purchase and replacement dates on an individual bulb-by-bulb basis.... F*ck! that hahaha... Anyway CFL's are great... They're not without their place... BUT, I feel like they basically replicate the old-school "t-12 tube only" style grows People used to do waaaaay before my time. Anyhow, I needed something different so I looked into a 150W HPS to replace my ufo for a try (UGH! I know I fought and preached against them for so long.... I feel like a hypocrite even now), but it won't fit in my cabinet I ended up buying a 70watter as supplemental lighting, so added to the ufo, it's 160watts of light nonetheless. I settled on this one: http://www.daybrite.com/pdfspecs/WL-43100.1.pdf I also ordered a 70watt metal halide ballast, and a 4000K philips mastercolor ceramic metal halide bulb too. I intend to try a trial with the HPS light for a couple grows.... My plan is to hang the LED UFO on one side of the cabinet, and the HPS light on the other. Then, I'll point them both diagonally towards the middle of the box, and try to create a sweet spot in the middle, and try to execute a SCROG type deal on that 1square foot or so sweet spot. It'll be 90watts of led, and 70watts of HPS for 160Watts of blended light total... After I do a couple runs, I'm going to re-lamp the fixture with the new metal halide ballast, and the new phillips 4000K mastercolor ceramic metal halide bulb, and see which one I feel does better.... Here's a couple of questions I had been mulling over that I thought I'd ask your opinion on... 1) do you think it's safe to relamp the fixture to accept the new ceramic metal halide bulb? In terms of heat and other considerations? I looked at the data sheet, and it says the fixture is offered as a 70watt HPS, or a 50Watt metal halide, BUT, the sheet says 50watt "metal halide", and NOT "ceramic metal halide" and I know there's some differences there of course... I'm pretty sure (I think) that it goes like this: ordinary metal halide runs hotter than ordinary high pressure sodium, but ceramic metal halide is cooler than both... Does that sound right? Anyway, I'd like to know if you can think of any good reason why you think it's a bad idea for me to re-lamp the fixture for my purposes. Unfortunately, I've already ordered and paid for everything, but I value your thoughts nonetheless... 2) Can you already vouch that watt-for-watt, CMH is better thn HPS? Since I've already got all the stuff on order, do you think I should skip 6 months of "HPS testing" and just cut to the chase and re-lamp the fixture from the begining? I'm pretty sure I read somewhere that CMH runs cooler... Hope so... I feel some warmth from the 104W of CFL pumping in there, and I certainly think having only ONE considerable source of heat to manage will be easier than the "even-heat" effect created by CFL's... Also- I look forward to having A) a more corrected color spectrum than ever, and B) only ONE source of light to aim ALL IN ONE SPOT with only ONE mirror.... I'm begining to see why HID growers will never look back... I Basically picked the fixture because it was cheap, and it would fit my unusually small space. I also thought since it was a philips lamp, I could squeeze some advice outta them about relamping the fixture since I intended to do it using their bulbs etc... Emailed 4 days ago, no word yet If it runs unacceptably hot, I plan to remove all the components, drill a polka dot pattern holes all over the casing and re-assemble. Then I'll attatch a 4" diameter dryer hose flange to the housing with some rivets, run it to my fan, and viola! ghetto rigged ventillated enclosure. Anyway I don't regret telling to use CFLs for small grows for so long, but I definitely have my own reasons for moving on... Now that I recognize the need for proper spectrum matching, and the priceless value behind being able to put most of your light in ONE place, I understand why this is the next logical step. If you can think of anything You'd like to share I'd really appreciate it. Thanks for your time Amoril -Weasel
1) if youre switching out the ballast, I dont see why it wouldnt work. If the housing can withstand a 70w HPS, i would think a comparable CMH should be fine, but you might want to pre-drill a few of those aeration holes, just in case lmao 2) I wont vouch for that yet Im actually using a 400w HPS on this run, to better illustrate the differences to myself. It seems like resin production was higher with the CMH, and flower time elongated...thats probably related. The HPS is very slightly less covered in trichomes (most noticably on the undersides of leaves and such), but is maturing much faster (7-10 days it seems). See, the reverse holds true I havent really adjusted the light height either, so the 400w HPS is at the same 8-10 inch range from the canopy that the CMH was, and with no issue. The average ambient temp (measured above the reflector) in the tent is about 2 degrees warmer with the HPS though. Both are substantially more easily cooled than my old array of CFLs + 150w HPS though so, they may be more "situational" differences than anything with the bulbs. I dont have confirmation on this hypothesis yet, but im willing to bet that the cannabinoid profiles are slightly skewed with the bulbs, and the CMH producing a slightly "headier" or more of the up/cerebral/sativa-esque buzz. I cant confirm that yet though, but im hoping to notice some smoke difference within a few weeks (harvest isnt too far off under the HPS lol). is that what youre asking? or did I miss it?
Thanks Amoril. Yeah that's pretty much it. I need to call philips-daybrite and ask them about the fixture itself. Like you said, I figured if a 70w hps will fly, then why not a 70w cmh... The only thing I'm concerned about now is the explosion hazard... I know that all HID bulbs are somewhat prone to arc tube rupture to some degree or another... I think the contents (HPS, MH, CMH, MV etc) play a role in the stability/volitality... Anyways, what I noticed last night is that I bought an unprotected bulb meant for enclosed fixtures. I assumed this wouldn't be a problem, but philips datasheet says that the fixture I place the "unprotected" bulb into has got to be rated to handle 1000degree Farenheit bits of glass settling inside without causing a fire if the bulb blows up. I'm not confident the fixture could handle that because the lens is heavy duty plastic, not glass... Although it is described as vandal resistant, but that probably just means the lens is attatched with funny screws to discourage hooligans... Anyways I bought the bulb as a rush purchase at a local flea market for 10 bucks so at the time, being the only thing available, I thought it was a good deal. Not so sure about that now, but all I lost was 10 bucks... What do you think? Is it a death wish/invitation for a visit from the fire department to say "screw it" and just run the damn thing with the lexan cover closed... ? I'm going to call daybrite at some point today once I'm satisfactorally fried but please let me know what your thoughts are. I think it'll probably be fine, but I don't want those to be my famous last words on the subject... Thanks agaim man! -Weasel
After lux, the second most important factor of light is its wavelength. Assuming sufficient lux, photosynthesis is m đèn led hà nội
I didn't get to read this thread yet but am into light spectrums, so I will be following you guys. I've ran HPS all year with super great results & am about to build a second room with LED providing I can find the right one. For HPS I use Hortrilux red for flower & the hortrilux Blue (daylight) for veg & the last week of flower for UV. It does make a big difference as allot of my strains actually turn a l cool light blue tint to them & I do believe it increase the terps & trichlone production. The Blue daylight bulb does a pretty good job at mimicking the sun. Does anyone have any experience, good or bad with the Hydropnics Hut LED lights? Pls LMK as I am planning on purchasing one along with 2 other LEDs to compare before buying them for my whole room. New tech., eliminating the need for multi-bands or whites, providing a full spectrum from each diode, similiar to a COB but from the 3 & 5 watt diodes as well. All one exact color of the spectrum providing a uniform, intense light for our girls! Thank you! Surprised the LED users on this sight aren't all over it, plus 1/2 the price of comparable claiming companies out of the U.S.. Anyone????
I actually run 2 of the hydroponics huts 260 models. I have no complaints. Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum mobile app