drop your glass pipe? how to fix it.

Discussion in 'Smoking Accessories Q&A' started by Hash Browns, Mar 11, 2009.


  1. I hope you've given up on that piece, because theoretically you could be smoking bud laced with epoxy. It blows to break a favorite piece, but who knows what kind of health problems you might run into by trying to save it?

    With that said, I recently broke a brand new sherlock that's easily the smoothest and most sculptural piece I've ever owned. I was extremely satisfied with the purchase, and within a few days its only fault became its downfall. It wobbles at very slight disturbances, unlike a pipe with, quite frankly, better weight distribution. It broke right around where you'd expect a sherlock to break, at the base of what I'll call the pipe's neck.

    So I found myself some QuikSteel, because the break couldn't have been cleaner, and the glass is very thick. Most importantly, it broke far enough away from the bowl to make a repair without worrying about heat.

    Has been fixed for a week or so, and smokes the same as the day I bought it. I had to repair it twice though, because I think I took too long kneading the QuikSteel into putty the first time around. The chemical reaction, whatever it is, occurs pretty quick (hence the damn clever name) so if you don't knead it and complete the repair in about 3 to 4 minutes, it starts to harden before the bond is made. I'm pretty sure that's what happened to me the first time around, because I was changing the piece's water the next day and it came apart as soon as it got wet.

    I timed myself right the second time around, and the product seems to do what it claims to do. Saved me from throwing away a true work of art. :bongin:
     
  2. I logged in because I had read all the posts and wanted to see for myself if this stuff would hold. Obviously i was drawn to this forum because one of my favorite pieces broke. About 1/2 inch from the bowl itself was the break, and it was a clean break. The quitsteel is pretty cheap so i figured I should try it out. I first cleaned the bowl off, dried it and used some sandpaper to rough up the edges, cause the break was so smooth i was worried it might not stick on a smooth edge. Also before cutting off a piece, remember to discard the edge, it's no good. The first time i couldn't get it on right, like most people it's a trial the first time you use it. I was trying to use gloves and it wasn't working and when i used some water to clean excess off, too much went away and it fell apart. 2nd try i used my fingers, you don't need alot, like 1/8 inch cut, you rub it together with your fingers, kneeding at a decent pace and once it turns one color, just apply small amount around each edge, so it's not hanging off in one direction or another , cause once you attach the pieces, it can leave a bit off a mess. Even with that little amount, i had extra i had to throw away. I bought a 40z size, but 10z is more than enough. You can clean it off with water, but that is also not good for the seal, it'll weaken it, so just be careful, and if you kneed the stuff in 30-60 seconds, you have 2 minutes to apply it, so don't feel rushed. Then obviously clean your own fingers off asap! I let it sit for 1 day and i grabbed on the ends with each arm and tried to pull the bowl head off with maybe 80% force (33yr old male, avg build) and it didn't budge. So it held up very well, it was cheap, it was fairly simple. One warning though, if some gets inside the pipe when you close it, and you scrap your bowl out later... do not smoke it! :eek: Also if you cracked the bowl head itself, it would hold, but i'd still junk it. If your bowl head is intact, you are good to go!
     
  3. Btw thanks to Hash Browns, you helped out a fellow brother :hello:
     
  4. I don't think that just because your brother used it on a homemade bong classifies it as safe or healthy for use by others.

    Unless your brother is a medical researcher or a doctor or some sort then he isn't a credible expert then is he?
     
  5. You have saved my epic pipe's life.
     

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  6. I didn't drop mine (my friend was 'cleaning' the pipe) the carb broke off, all I needed to do was use my torch lighter (I also go some rez from that xP) and it was fixed
     
  7. Guys
    First get a metal tube exactly the width of the inside of your pipe. Set it in one end of broken piece. Place teh epoxy on the outside of the pipe on the briken edge of one of the pieces. Place the other one in. This means the epoxy is not in the vapour path. Once dry and cured (24 hrs) Heat up your pipe for a 30 minutes in the oven at 350 F . Viola.... Use your brian.....if you can... have puff on me.
     
  8. i used J-B weld to fix a bong, it says its water drink safe so it might be a bit better
     

  9. You should also use your brian and realize that its spelled Brain! :smoke:
     
  10. No way man. I fixed a bubbler with something similar (Mighty Putty).
    All of my hits on that thing taste like a combination of meth mixed with horse semen and bad decisions.

    **I don't actually know what meth and horse semen taste like.
     
  11. #51 4pawsbmj8, Aug 30, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 15, 2016
    It's mighty putty! I've used that shit on a bong slide and it worked hella good. And one tube lasted me a long time. Smells horrible
     
  12. #52 4pawsbmj8, Aug 30, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 15, 2016
    That's what I did with the mighty putty. I lined it up then wraped the putty around it. Doesn't touch the smoke just holds it together
     
  13. If you drop your glass pipe, you might as well buy a new one. Try to find one that's better than the old one, and change it up a bit! :smoke:
     
  14. i got one with a chip on the mouthpiece, i think ill use acryllic to fix it. acryllic might work for this too
     
  15. If you're glass breaks buy a new one. Pointless thread.
     
  16. Well, even with my 3rd year of having a medical license it took 9 weeks to get it past customs, the health department, and the tax authorities. And then my lovely Roor bong in the only weak point, and of course I bought backup accessories for everything except the (Udopea | Growshop | Homebox | Pflanzenlicht | Headshop | Bongs | Grinder | Shishashop | Shishas | Shishatabak | - ROOR Bong 250 2.5 blau, Höhe 32cm, Ø 41mm Schliff: 14/5, 3tlg. ROOR Bong 250 2.5 blau, Höhe 32cm, Ø 41mm Schliff: 14/5, 3tlg. 0250-143) real and terrific for 5 weeks bong. I ordered the epoxy resin via Amazon but in the meanwhile am trying regular pure epoxy on the break, which I will take a picture of when I can see straight. What a horror. Extra bowls, diffusers, active carbon holder. but broke while cleaning precisely where the join is a cm or two from the main tube of the bong. The bowl after the cooler and carbon and everything else (if the epoxy works) is far away from the break, so heating the thing should not be an issue. I am concerned about the drip that went inside the bong but hopefully wet and cold (keep everything in my little office fridge with my neck support chair) enough not to worry about. The main question now is how long to let the epoxy and step dry before trying to even inhale to test or put in a diffuser, etc... Anyone know? What a joke, 300 EU of money spent plus delivery plus 16% taxes in the end, and now back to my 29 USD Graffix bong since the lousy glass ones you can get here in Israel suck worse.

    Sigh.

    Oh, and hey all, been reading the forums since I was put into chronic pain and PTSD by a driver on a mobile phone who hit me at a light 55 months ago, first time post.

    Cheers,
    Ogiers
     
  17. Update on my first (and hopefully not last) Roor bong with the stem break due to cleaning multiple parts at once, being wasted and in pain, and dropping the heaviest Roor part (not ready to share which one 'til I have fixed it - it is one of the stupidest acts of my life) on the stem.

    The clear superglue epoxy on the break itself has dried and I waited a day for it to "cure". Only the tiniest drip on the inside, but again this is the join that the diffuser goes into, far away from the top of the diffuser, beaker pre-cooler, and then the bowl itself, so from the 5 weeks of usage I have never seen that area even have a chance to get warm.

    I remembered to take pictures after putting the putty on, but not of the original break (too upset yesterday to deal after I got the basic superglue epoxy between the edges of the clean if jagged break. Charging the camera battery then uploading to share, ideally with success stories (yes, it won't look as pretty but if I can use it, we're talking about saving several hundred Euro and my lungs (rather important too) and being able to use the active carbon and beautiful bowls, bubble diffusers, etc...

    This morning, put the gloves on, my friend had brought me the epoxy putty which I mixed and applied as in the thread above (over the outside of the break, which now seems basically invisibly sealed across the entire broken stem from the superglue) which although covering the area with an ugly grey putty, should hopefully provide the tensile strength to support the diffuser insert, bowl, and if I'm really fortunate, the pre-cooler.

    The import via the authorities that I did at the start of the summer was all Roor parts from Germany except the Magic Glass pre-cooler, and they don't conduct heat very well (which is a good thing) in spite of my using the torch-type of butane refillable lighter above the bowl, located a good 10-15 cm above the break and double-level epoxying location.

    Here I am trying to keep my lungs as clean as I can for the long term (43 y.o.) and right now all of the key parts are sitting clean and shiny (and unusable) in the drawer. Back to the Graffix while I wait for things to harden.

    I'll post a (hopefully final) update tomorrow with pics and ideally with all the parts re-assembled. If this works, I owe a massive nugget to each of the folks with the useful advice here. Thanks for your help!
     
  18. Thank all of you that contributed to this thread! Two days after the break now, and I have two pictures attached, a day full of bong hits later. Bottom line, the combo of clear superglue on the break, 24 hours, and then the steel epoxy putty around the break with another 24 hours, and the Roor is back in business.

    We're most of the way back. The two outstanding issues are a small water leak after it sits in the fridge, about 2 drops per 90 minutes. For that, I'm going to dry it out and apply a small additional amount of the cement in the area I can see the drops emitting.

    The other is whether to even think about testing the pre-cooler attachment. The stuff seems rock-hard, and the imperfection reminds me to be careful. Clear glass would be nice to have, but a working high quality bong kicks rear, especially when you need to take the stuff for terrible pain.

    Let me know what all of you experts think. Who knew that enjoying Humboldt County herb growing up in Northern CA, then good bud throughout young adulthood would lead several decades later to being able to manage a lot of my injury pain w/o opiates with medically supplied herbage (a nice pair of nuggets should show in one of the pics). Thanks again!
     

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  19. In addition to making all the implements useful once again, I realized I had 3 more pics of the repair from the day I made it (sorry, forgot how much more wasted one can get with the carbon filtering and large bowl than the 1-hitter with the old graffix plastic bong). If interested, attached 'em here. Really glad I found this thread. Wished I hadn't needed it, but no heat within 2 attachments of the repair... so happy to be back.
     

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  20. i want to try and fix mine.. a good friend gave it to me the last time i ever saw him and honestly i just wont be able to forgive myself... its like the last thing i have left of him.. im seriously crying omg
     

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