Blueberry Skunk Flowering

Discussion in 'First Time Marijuana Growers' started by debelastoka, Oct 1, 2008.

  1. Does anyone know how long Blueberry Skunk is supposed to flower for under indoor growing conditions? I've got 6 girls under a 400w Metal Halide and as I understand it, that is on the high-end of what 6 plants need.

    From all the research I've done on seed bank sites and other forums I see that it says 70-85/90 days but I'm not sure if that is for outdoor or indoor conditions.

    Basically, I need someone to tell me whether under indoor conditions a plant requires a shorter flowering period? or whether it takes the same amount of time as it naturally would in the outdoors?

    Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Cheers. :smoking:
     
  2. im not sure on how long the flowering period is but as i understand it just get a rough estimate such as those numbers you have. when it gets around that time look at the tricomes with a magnifying glass or one of those 420 scopes. If they are clear and sticking straight up with the ball on top wait a little longer. if they are amber colored then they are perfect. if they are amber and staring to droop down then they are staring to lose potency.
     
  3. I believe that strain is supposed to be around a 8-9 week flowering period but you should just use the trichome method and you'll be fine...
    when the seed banks have a suggested flowering time is just so you can estimate around how long it should take, the trichome method is the best most accurate way to harvest...

    P.S. (a lil tip) you should be using an HPS light for flowering

    good luck

    BiZness
     
  4. what he saidd ^^^^^^
     
  5. What I have is a 400w 120 volt Lumatek Electronic Ballast that powers my PSMH 400w SunPulse Metal Halide Lamp. From what I have been told, and what I have read, they offer the full spectrum of light needed by Marijuana, and can be used for vegetative growth as well as flowering. Below are the links to the products I have. See what you think.
    http://www.lumatek.ca/proddetail.php?prod=400-120
    http://www.sunpulselamps.com/index....&category_id=1&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=6
     
  6. I'm sure your light will work fine, but any grow light on a flowering timer will flower I would still use an HPS light.. but who knows you could be losing yeild or maybe not

    maybe you can compare them, that would be interesting to know for sure

    good luck either way
     
  7. I suppose I should consider the idea of getting a 400watt HPS light, luckily I've got 3 weeks to consider it.

    Is there anyone out there that has done a full grow (veg + flower) on a metal halide light alone and can confirm that it was a good or bad idea?

    The reason I ask is as previously stated I have information that suggest it will be perfectly fine, however I can't seem to find anyone that actually does it.
     
  8. yep me:)

    the difference between doing a grow with mh all the way through is your buds wont be as dense they'll be airey,the benefits are the uv rays the mh provide will enhance the resin & trichomes.

    the hps will produce denser buds therefore a bigger yield.

    now going dual spectrum or full spec= using both ,a mh for veg then put a hps in with the mh for flowering..............mmmmmm big full buds with the extra resin & trichome produced;)

    short version but basically the difference.

    i use a 250 watt mh in conjunction with my 250 watt hps = 500 watts total = MELTED:D:smoke:

    HOPE THIS HELPS MATE:smoke:
     
  9. Perfect, thanks for that, that was the concise answer I was looking for. I suppose I will try both and see what kind of bud i prefer smoking. I'm definately in this to make the stickiest stinkiest smoke I've ever had so increased resin production is always a plus. Cheers!
     
  10. Sorry to dig up yesterdays thread, but, (my beginner friends) this...

    ...is a well asked question, and this...



    ...was the definitive answer it required.


    Motorheed has done it. He's invested time and resources into an experiment, and came away with the experience and first hand knowledge (as opposed to having read a grow guide or two 'knowledge'), which he is passing on to others.

    I like it, motorheed likes it, debelastoka likes it, and you should like it too! :D

    Ask the right questions; get the right answers.

    +Rep motorheed for knowing the answer

    ;)
     
  11. Alright now 6 days into flowering I am encountered a problem that I don't seem to be resolving effectively. 2/3rds of my plants are exhibiting symptoms that I have diagnosed as potassium deficiency. If you goto this link:

    http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688&page=1&pp=15

    you can find a picture of potassium deficiency and my plants look exactly like that. This problem only showed itself 2 days into flowering, prior to which my plants were a lush green 100% of the way through. The moment i "diagnosed" that problem I proceeded to try and resolve it logically. My organic grow formula NPK 6-4-3 has only 4 parts potassium for every 6 parts Nitrogen etc, and since my plants had been watered regularly, and manufacturer instructions followed I concluded that the flowering period demanded more potassium and the plant was merely communicating to me that this was the time to start giving it, that i should switch to my organic bloom formula NPK 2-6-6 allowing for a higher potassium concentration, and hopefully leading to my plants revival. Here is the problem 4 days after, my plants look no worse and no better. They are still growing, exponentially, all new growth is green, the plants are ridiculously bushy causing the lower leaves and branches to get far too little light, and this is causing them to go limp but as far as I'm concerned that is just part of the plants genetic makeup and I'm not going to mess with it.

    What I need to know is: was switching from NPK 6-4-3 to NPK 2-6-6 and appropriate
    response to my plants potassium deficiency?

    If the treatment of a potassium deficiency is effective, does it cause the yellow edges of the leaves to return to green? or does it merely prevent further degradation?

    Again, the question here is of treatment techniques, not diagnosis, since the very informative link above has inspired a great deal of confidence in me regarding my diagnosis skills.
    Much appreciated.
     
  12. Not to get off topic but ive flowered under hps and mh before with blueberry skunk the hps yeilded more but the mh was more fruity smelling and the Buda weremt fluffy they seré just smaller
     
  13. Hey OP, hope this msg finds you well on a 8 year old thread.
    I am running the same strain and it shows the exact same problem as your plants. Just curious how it did turn out.
    Cheers.
     
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