I have a '98 Volkswagen Jetta (automatic) and sometimes when I stop, say at a stop sign and then go again, it seems to stall, like it can't catch the gears. The engine just revs and I'm not really moving or if I'm on a hill I'm moving backwards. The check engine light is also on and has been for awhile. I also slid into a guardrail but I don't think that has anything to do with it, except maybe throw the alignment off and which might be why the steering wheel shakes and vibrates sometimes. I'm getting my car fixed tomorrow, so maybe I'll let them have a look at it but I don't wanna run the price up any more, since its already gonna cost $1,500 + for body work. It's not like its a major problem right now, but I may not put any money into my car as I was planning on doing, except maybe subs, because I don't want my car to crap out on me. Hopefully its nothing serious with the transmission.
Anyone know where the coolant temp sensor is located on a 97 Dodge Neon? (sohc) Suppose I could look it up on autozone or something but hey Im on here so why not. yes Im lazy right about now.
If your going thru your auto insurance company for the body work, Then have them check the transmission too. Yes it could have been damage in the collision and if it was your insurance company would pay for it. If you went into a gaurd rail and any part of the wheel was damaged then your axle may have been jammed into the tranny. This could cause internal gear issues. If your not using your insurance. then it still sounds like your transmission needs a rebuild or replacement. Sorry.
Usually the temp sensor is located at the thermostat housing where the upper radiator hose connects to the engine. Follow the hose to the housing and the sensor scews into it.
Tight! Ill check it out, its nice out today so Im gonna take a look at it. Its been giving me problems cold starting in cold temps. Someone said change the coolant temp sensor..so figure Id start there. ty
That's a good place to start with a Dodge. It's pretty cheap too. prolly less than $20. DO NOT over tighten it when installing the new one or you WILL break the housing. Be gentle as possible. Easy job.
I have a 2000 Ford Crown Vic (yes that's right... a cop car.) Anyway, the cruise control stopped working a few months ago. The light still comes on saying it's working, but when I take my foot off the accelerator, the car doesn't stay at the speed its supposed to. Not a major problem, just a minor annoyance.
I got a 1999 Acura 2.3 cl, and i've had some minor issues... - My check engine light was on for a long time, but seemed to resolve itself... its off now... however, just recently, a different light began popping up on the dash: "Maintenance required." it seems to slightly glow red, when it used to glow orange/yellow. The car seems to run perfectly fine though... is this something i should worry about since my car runs fine, or is it actually a serious issue?
Sounds like you have a vacumm leak at the cruise control diaphram under the hood. Look for a vacumm line to the unit and check it for leaks. Ther's a vacumm diagram under your hood on a sticker. It's on the under side of the hood so look up.
Maintenence required light is not a smart light. It comes on every 7500 miles to remind you to change your oil. Please change your oil every 3000 miles not 7500. You can reset that light yourself. here's how: With your left hand push and hold the reset button on your dashboard, then turn the key on while holding the reset button in. It will flash and stay on then go off for another 75000 miles or so.
ive got a few problems with my 98 civic ex. 1. it idles extremely low when you're at a stop. if you're rolling in neutral it'll stay around 900. i didnt have this problem until i was playing with a zex wet 100 shot kit for a few weeks. 2. my engine makes a ticking noise. constantly. ever since i got the car. 3. my car struggles to increase speed when at 2900rpm and below
#1 sounds like you could use a throttle body cleaning for the low idle issue. Remove the air intake tube form the air fliter box and clean the throttle plate with some carb clean and an old tooth brush.Spray and scrub,spray and scrubect.. One thing the car will start all fucked up the first start up after the cleaning. #2 Noises are tuff over the computer, But honda's are know for needing a valve adjustment from time to time.If they are really out of adjustment then that could be your acelleration issue as well. Have the car checked out by a pro. any questions get back to me.
I'm not sure what you mean. If your talking about bypassing the factory alarm. That's harder to do. If it's a cheap aftermarket alarm it may be easier. If your thinking of cutting and splicing wires yourself. DON"T DO IT!!!! Iv'e seen more problems from messed up wiring than I can count. Have a pro. do it.
I bought a car with an aftermarket alarm with a starter kill. It's a 97 Honda Accord and those cars get stolen a lot so I wanted to know how difficult it would be for someone to steal it with the starter kill.
Very difficult. A pro will get your car no matter what. But a punk would have a hell of a time getting past the kill switch. Your smart to protect that vehicle.
actually i dont think i explained the complication as well as i could have. my truck makes a squeaking noise when the engine revs. even when im stopped, so it couldnt be the breaks. but when im in neutral and i rev the engine the sqeaking will speed up with the RPMs. but this past weekend it rained a bunch and i noticed that the noise stopped. so i have no clue to what thats all about. but the brake pedal thing i can understand that it would be the master cyl. i just had my brakes worked on like 6 or so months ago and it cost a lot of money but i know there was more they could have done. i just didnt have the money. but when i get my oil changed this week end i will ask them to look at it. thanks
That squeeking noise sounds like a belt making noise. The rain moistened it and stopped the squeek. Prolly dry and cracked. Have them check that too. Good luck
ok back to my 2002 sebring lol when you put it in reverse or drive without pressing the gas it makes a really loud grinding noise, but again it doesn't do it when the car heats up