I would get the single 1k light just because it's much easier. Having 2x 600s would significantly increase your yield providing you have everything else right of course, but a 1k would be adequate for a 4'x4' and at a push 5'x5' without causing problems. A single light won't give of a square of even light so it's always going to be uneven to some degree. 2 lights may even create a more even spread. The light that is hitting the border at the sides of the light fixture will be much more intense than the light hitting the border at the ends of the light fixture. Keep in mind when you fit a 400cfm fan to a filter and ducting it is now nowhere near pulling 400cfm. So that figure is pretty much meaningless
Im not even going to entertain the Chinese and Japanese difference thing. - All the measurements for fans, filter and such were taken with the impression that im going to running them in the room, but now that ive decided on getting a 5x5 tent, im thinking that a 6x24" filter is going to be too much. I mean, ill have a 6" hood with a 6" fan on that obviously, and then the 6" fan on the 6" filter. Im thinking that might be moving too much air, so a controller will be necessary. As far as the filter, I think a 4" would work fine, but I want to make SURE 100% that the air is clean, it has to be, so I think maybe a 6x18" filter would be good. -I was going to go with the radiant 6", but ive been reading a lot of reviews. People say its good, but that its kind of poorly designed. It distributes light pretty well, but isn't build very well. XXL and XXXL hoods spread the light out too much instead of concentrating it in the middle, but I really do want to be able to cover at least a 4x4 space, preferably a 5x5 space. -GOLD: what hood do you use, as well as tent(brand) Your tent frame looks like it holds a good amount of weight, most I see don't have the grid pattern on the roof? (others can jump in too) I really don't mind paying a good amount but if I need to get 2 hoods rather than 1 I want to keep the price moderate.
There is no need to address the Japan China thing. Not even close. Don't trust it there's lots of other brands just as good. Its what works for you.
My tents were £50 each off eBay. They don't have a brand name and most likely made in either China or India as so many cheap things are these days. They are as good or arguably better than the more expensive brands that I have seen and used. . The best thing about my tents is that they have full frontal double doors. I really dislike those single doors that don't open up the entire front, leaving a weird border that always gets in the way. . The grid at the top is a 2" steel mesh screen that I also use for ScrOGing. I bought these screens from a local hardware store and cost £10 each. They work extremely well to make the tents frame more rigid and allows me to hook things up anywhere on the ceiling. . My air cooled hood was £40 and the brand is Black Orchid. It's a budget brand, but works perfectly. My 600w dimmable ballast is the same brand
On the issue of tents, I have two Secret Jardin tents and an Apollo. SJ are 4x4 and 3x3, Apollo is 4x8 and was cheaper than the 3x3. I wish I had gone Apollo for all 3 tents. Better quality than the SJ DS120
the one problem I had with my tents was that they didn't have duct ports on either side for the ability to use an air cooled hood. I had to cut my own holes and fit flanges to attach my ducting. But it wasn't much of an issue in the end
-Well, Its coming down to the tent company. Im thinking either a Growlab GL145 or a hydrohut silver edition 4x4. They both have pros and cons. -Light tightness is about the same for each, but im leaning towards the tent that has steel frame corners, not fond of plastic corners, even though the manufacturers state the all steel only holds 25lbs more than the plastic corner GL145. The ducting holes on the HH are on inside and outside, but the ones for the hood look a little low, id think itd be better to have it up higher so I could get the most use out of it. The GL145 vent flaps don't stay open but I think ill be able to fix with Velcro. -If you could please take a look at each on greners and let me know which one you would pick, based on my needs presented so far I would be sincerely grateful. -Also, ive been reading different books, and most say a 600w HID will cover a 4x4 space, so I'm thinking a 1000w will be overkill. Another thing im unsure of is if when using my solis tek, if I can dim my 1000w bulb to 600w or if that's just for using a 600w bulb.
. I wouldn't worry about brand names, just on what the specific tent has, as far as exhaust ports where you want them, cable ports, vents, and the size and shape of the doors. . I used to have a tent with steel corners, and the ones I have now have plastic corners. The plastic ones have a triangle support the corner making it just as strong as the steel ones that are simply welded tight in the corner without any support. If anything was going to go it probably wouldnt be a corner anyway, most likely one of the lengths. . If you buy a 1k dimmable ballast and a 1k bulb, you can dim it using the same bulb. . Can you put a link up to the ones that you are comparing? . 600w can light up a 4x4' area without problems, but its far from maxing out the plants potential. A 1k would work nicely in a 4x4' too . My tents are 2.5'x4' and I have a 600w HPS and 300w (170w) LED in one of them. That's around 77w per square-foot I think, and I believe that's where you start to max them out. 600w in a 4x4' is about 37w per square-foot. And a 1kw in a 5x5' is 40w per square-foot
~ok, just wanted to make sure about the bulbs. read something saying there are "digital" bulbs your supposed to use w digital ballasts. Im thinking the hortilux super hps will work fine with the solis tek digital 1000w ballast though. ---both tents are listed a 4x4, but the actual measurements are almost 5x5. Here are three links: 1.This is the growlab 145, fair price, Good port placement like I said, I think there are 2 cord ports, but the flaps for the passive air intake don't stay open, which I think might present a problem, but could easily be fixed with Velcro. One major thing im worrying about which is probably nothing, is that this tent only has 97% radiant blocking interior, which could cause some bad bad things to happen...But im only using a 1000w light, and if its vented properly I think ill be A-ok. Thick canvas and zippers. Some light leakage -http://www.greners.com/i/grow-tents/growlab/growla...2.This is the hydrohut silver edition 4x4. Has like 7 vent ports or some crazy number that are all double sided. all steel contruction like I said. The ports for the hood are a little lower than id like, but not sure if that's something to worry about. passive flaps Velcro open or shut. 4 chord ports. Seems like it is made of good material, and has one big door and 2 access panels. Some light leakage . 100% radiant blocking interior, which sounds good to me -http://www.greners.com/i/grow-tents/hydrohut/hydro...3. This link compares all major tent brands, gorilla, SJ, hydrohut, homebox, growlab, and sunhut. As you suggested, I think ill use the 1000w for my 4x4 space, although I am starting out with a t5 fixture at first for the seedlings. Ill have about 12 seedlings, as I think I could fit 10-12 mature plants in a 4x4 fine, but im not sure how big of a t5 to get, if I should get the 2 or 4 foot, and how many lights on it 2-8 light combos. -http://www.greners.com/expertadvice/grow-tent-revi... so, besides the tent dilemma, and the fluorescent problem(need advice on how big of one to purchase)....Im just wondering what nutrient brands you have tried and would recommend. Im using a soilless mixture, adding nutes myself.
Hortilux bulbs will work with the ballast or Solis tek makes a bulb that's matched to their ballast w/ higher par and lumen output for less $. Both bulbs are quality bulbs, both will make you happy. I've ran hortilux also. No experience with t5s or soiless mediums. Just make sure the dimensions of the light fit the tent. Just because a tent is called 4' doesn't mean it's 4'. My tents are considered 4' but the inside demension is actually 45.5" instead of 48".
I was thinking beause the seedlings are so small, I don't really need a t5 fixture that lights the whole tent, it would be overkill. --Golden, still waiting on your eval of the tents. -also, any advice on timers, there seem to be really complicated ones as well as ones specifically for controlling the ballast, brands? And because its a little cheaper, I was thinking about quantum ballasts, from what I can tell they are decent.
Tents are good for speed or erection and dismantle...this is all. If you have a spare day then spend less money building your own room from timber and plasterboard - totally bespoke to your needs and fire protected and better insulated (inc light leaks) in the process.
I have never heard of a digital bulb, I have no idea what that could mean. The first one is way better imo, but they are both way over priced. I got mine for 50 bucks, surely you can get them cheaper than that? That one is like $350, I mean what? What is radiant blocking? That sounds like a bad thing That's a lot of plants in such a small area, you will have to flower them pretty small. A 4' 8 tube t5 fixture would work really well in the 4'9" x 4'9" tent. I have one of those and they are so good for vegging. I use growth technology's ionic bloom. It's just one bottle so you don't have to mix and measure ratios. It's primarily for flowering but I use it from hatch to harvest
If the fan is dead last sucking and the filter is next to last in the system all the little leaks are pulling air in and through the filter.. Any other setup will have you blowing unfiltered air out someplace.. Just something to keep in mind when your laying things out.. My buddy wound up ripping his whole rig down because of the way he'd done the fan and filter.. Ended up with the big fan and filter outside the tent before he finally got the stink under control BNW
I guess digital bulbs are probably another marketing tactic to sell more of the exact same bulbs at a higher price, I was just asking to make sure mine are compat. -Yea, the growlab is like 200 on another site I was looking at. The reason I was considering brand name tents is because i really didn't want to chance getting a cheap one, and then having it break, be built horrible with lots of light leaks, or gas my plants to death. But as of right now, i have to cheapen something because im over my budget, which is why i was looking for different brands of tents. -Is it smarter to flower many plants, or a few big ones? I bought a shitload of seeds before realizing i didn't need that many lol. -Radiant blocking is i think the light/heat from the light fixture itself. The tents inside material blocks this from escaping the tent so as not to give off a heat sig. -As far as a 4' fixture, you think that's necessary? I was only going to use it for MAYBE a month for the seedlings and small plants, then transfer to my 1000w run at 600w. -Im going to look into GT nutes! NEW: Do seedling trays NEED a heat mat? I live in a pretty warm climate already, with pretty high humidity. Just wondering what their function is as far as meeting the plants needs.
I've had that problem. Especially with all the little holes the you get from messing with the ducting. I ordered can fan ducting because I figured it'd be thicker and more resistant to tearing. I figured wrong. It seems that whenever I check out ducting to buy it already has pin holes all throughout it. I know having the fan and filter outside the tent sucking isn't ideal, but I can't see doing it any other way without having unfiltered air leaking out.
I don't know about a marketing tactic. The word digital has a specific meaning and a bulb being digital makes no sense to me. I would ask the seller about that specifically before parting with any money. A tent that broke easily or had a light leak is faulty so I don't think you need to worry about that. My tents were £50 each and have no problems. Fewer larger plants or more smaller plants will have similar yields as long as the area is adequately filled. More plants is generally more work, but shortens the vegging time. I recommend beginners grow fewer larger plants because it's easier. You don't want the tent to contain the heat. If heat radiates through it then that's a good thing. A heat signature is something else entirely and that will be seen from an exhaust. If you don't exhaust to outdoors and just exhaust from the tent, to out in to the room that the tent is in, you won't have to worry about heat signatures. Be careful about marketing blurb, it's often aimed at people who do not understand it. That way they can sprinkle it with bullshit and beginners won't realise. You can use a smaller fixture but it means you will have to start the plants in smaller pots so you can huddle them under the smaller light. Plants need to be within a few inches of the bulbs when using fluorescents. If you are vegging for a month then you will need the 4' fixture. A smaller fixture is ok for a couple of weeks but a month old plant will be pretty big . No, seedlings don't need a heater in normal circumstances, the lights will provide plenty of heat. About 25℃ is where you want them.
I was looking at the flourescents. and im thinking a 4x4 will be sufficient for say 10 plants, maybe about 8. THen they move over to the 600w, then 1000w. -What im concerned with is what coco brand to start in. Ive settled on using flora nova(the 2 step), so i need something that's pretty well balanced to start off with, and good quality. -Another thing is the pH,EC,TDS meter. I have pH strips, but id rather get a 3 in one meter. Not sure if i really need the meter to have the EC aspect to it. Any recommendations on meters? EDIT: Are there separate meters for measuring pH of soil and water? I need one that does both preferably. It seems they have waterproof testers but the ones for testing soil look different. -Also, I was watching some vids s well as reading, and apart from the 3 day watering cycle, people say to have an inch of runoff and that's how you know your done watering. --My major problem right now is my water source. Im not sure how to get quality water, as it seems the RO filters are expensive, and ive read not to use distilled. Ideas?
Keep in mind that the bulbs need to be within a few inches of the plants, so a 4 tube fixture won't cover 4ft area, you will need to use small pots and huddle them under it. It can be done but you won't be able to grow them very big, I'd probably just use a MH bulb so you won't have to change out the light fixtures and won't need to spend the money on a fluorescent light. If you don't mind that though, then go for it. Coco is all the same, I'd go with the cheapest brand. As far as coco nutrients go, I have only tried one, so can't advise on that. EC meters are so cheap, you may as well get one. You definitely want a ph meter. They cost about £4 each and are well worth the tiny cost. The cheap Chinese ones are plenty accurate for our needs, there's no real need to spend big money. My EC meter is about 9 years old, and cost £10 back then. They are cheaper now. It's still works perfectly fine. Water when the soil needs it. This maybe 1 day, or 1 week. Don't water because it's been 'x' amount of days. Allowing a little run off is good practice. What's wrong with your tap water exactly? RO filters are usually unnecessary, but if you do have a ppm excess then they are definitely worth it. Distilled water would be an extremely expensive option, I certainly wouldn't recommend that.
I was thinking i don't really need to cover the whole 4x4 area, so a 4ft 4 tube reflector would be fine, since i only going to have about 8 plants, and they will be small when under the light. Id be able to line the seedlings under the light evenly and then transfer when big enough, about 1ft in height, to a regular pot and use my 1000w hood. I definitely do not want stretching though when under the t5 from lack of light. -I am confused on whether the digital pH testers can measure soil pH as well as water pH. What do you measure with yours? I will probably just get a separate pH meter and EC meter for economical reasons, the combos seem expensive. I am genuinely confused on this and i reall want to get my order going and my stuff here already. 1 roadblock after another, but i want to have all my ducks in a row before i begin or waste money.