Never get info from tokecity or thcfarmer or 420. \nRemember patients is your friend and SAFETY FIRST! So never get info from tokecity or thcfarmer ,or 420. Really bad info and flaming that goes on there. I have been banned from both sites for expressing the dangers of blasting bho onto oil slick pads as well as refusing to use there picture uploading server. This gives then coppyright over my pic the moment it is up loaded to them and as a business they dont pay me shit. I am an educator and need the rights to my pictures to teach properly. \nThread rules. This is a discussion thread, no flaming or egos allowed. If you have unconfirmed information please state it as such. If you are speaking from experience please say so. Thanks and lets make some BOMB BHO! \n\nequipment -safety glasses!!!!!!! -point and shoot laser thermometer -pyrex dish 8x8, amazon ($16ea) -2 large oil slick pads -glass extraction tube local shop ($45ea) -coffee filters and rubber bands or SS hose clamps -power 5x butane, amazon ($30/case of 12) -oven -vaccum pump 1.5 cfm ac vac pump goes to -29inhg/14psi from amazon($90) I recomend a 2 stage but they cost more. -dehydrator amazon -electric hot pans for float dishes and the griddle for the vacuum oven, amazon ($40ea) -vaccum chamber round pollystirine($90) or converted pressure canning pot. -Butane, The tane you choose is up to you. I use power5. \nThere has been some debate about the "mystery oil" in the canned butane. What is it and how much is in the butane is different for every brand of butane but here is a breakdown of the different brands with lab results. For the price Power was one of the best. http://skunkpharmres...ho-mystery-oil/ \n \nThe temp you use from start to finish will determin the finishing state. these temps are different for everyone but they are close and are consistent for the vacuum purge method. Shatter is under 100 wax/erl around 120 honey/sap 160+ Edit: since this thread was made I have noticed the temps people use to achieve the desired finishs are slightly lower than I have posted. Many strains won't produce a hard finish though. So the finish you get in the end is as much about strain and how it was grown as it is about the temperatures you use. \nThe different finishes for the vacuum purge method. -Shatter is the least activated and is usually made at temps under 100 but can be achieved up to 120. -Hard wax is slightly activated and is achieved at temps up to 140. -Honey is the purest and most activated and is achieved at temps up to 190. -Budder/hash/honey comb is not something I usually make as they are not stable and degrade fast. Also without expensive testing there is no way to know if there is butane or water in it. \nStarting notes. Never blast onto anything other than pyrex. Parchment Paper and even the oil slick pads will deposit microscopic silicone particles into your extraction. I would avoid using PP for anything other than storage. \n\nThis is the original thread and has some good info throughout. How To Make Bho To Pass Testing. Really Nice Wax/shatter. \n1. take the room dry trim/bud and dry it out in a dehydrator. Remember you want to run the dehydrator at a lower temp than you plan to finish with. Do this for at least 3 hours or longer. This is the step that makes it so clear and not black or green. If you are making big runs, you will want to use some freezer bags to hold the dehydrated bud as the dehydrator may not hold more than half pound or so like mine. This is why you dehydrate. Like the color? \n2. Now load the tubes packing the material as tight as you can placing 4 layers of coffee filter over the end and secure it with a rubber band or a zip tie. The tight packing is what provides for a high yield and also helps maintain a higher pressure in the tube keeping the butane a liquid longer. \n3. Set up the electric skillet and float the pyrex dish in it in water. make sure it is floating freely. Chose the temprature you want to use and start extracting. One 300ml can per ounce of material. Do this all at once with no pauses. Warning: Never spray into parchment paper or onto an oil slick pad. It causes the Silicone to swell and flake off into your extraction. Science fact here. Only use these items after the initial purge and there is no liquid butane present. \n\n4. OUTSIDE WITH FIRE EXTINGUISHERS READY!!!! Extract the cans through the cylinder all at once into the pyrex dish while its floating in the water. My cylinders are glass, 1.5" diameter, and 10 through 14 inches long. I use two float dishes and separate the first two from the third. The third is the clearest and the first two will knock you flat. \n5. Allow to purge in the float dishes until reaction slows or stops. \n6. Scrape the dish and transfer it to parchment paper or an oil slick and put it into vacuum/ pressure canner oven. Dont get stupid and try to put more than an ounce on a flat piece of paper and expect it wont end up off of the paper. Set the griddle at the desired temp using the thermometer to check your extraction at regular intervals to ensure it does not over heat. Once desired temp is reached let it sit until there is no reaction. There may still be surface bubbles. The lower the temp the longer it will need to be purged. Then start increasing the vacuum slowly over a few hours into full vac. \nThe poor mans vacuum oven. Its a pressure canner converted to hold a vacuum sitting on a presto griddle. \nAfter you let it sit and heat purge it will look like this. Now this looks really nice but what happens under -29inhg? So not as nice as it looked. Then after some time at full vacuum and full temperature. Still not done. \n7. Vacuum purging. If you want a clean and safe product you will want to vacuum purge. There are many methods and you will want to do some trial and error but this is the general rule. Always wait to vacuum until there is no reaction at your target temperature to avoid excessive puffing. Never use parchment papre for honey oils, only to store hard finishes like waxes and shatters. \nWhy we vacuum \nNot vacuumed After the vacuum. \n2 ounces after a vacuum. Clear enough for ya? \nHow about this \nThere are other methods for purging that does not use a vacuum chamber or heat. These use alcohol and are known as polar secondary extractions, or winterization. They can also be used to clean up your product by removing any lipids, waxes, fats and other non polar compounds you may not want in your product. Here is a link to this process. Polishing extracts « Skunk Pharm Research LLC \nFor baking information and ideas. You can easilly dissolve your BHO into many different cooking oils. Honeys are mostly decarbed and ready to go. BadKats CannaPharm: Medical Grade Oil, Cannabis Capsules, UV GLOWING Hash Candy, Canna Bombs more \n\nBasic instructions for making a clear erl/touchable wax. \nPurge times and temps: Water bath: 100f until it starts to puff up, then agitate it some with a fork to pop the bubbles. Do this several times over a ten min period. \nOven: Transfer extraction from pyrex to a oil slick pad or some parchment paper. Allow to heat to 90f-110f depending on strain starting at 90f, allow to sit in the oven for about 30 min. \nVacuum: Warning: make sure the extraction is spread thin on the oil pad to avoid over puffing, also line the inside of the chamber with PP just in case. 90f-110f vacuum to 27 inhg then release, check to ensure it did not over puff or explode. Then vacuum to 29inhg for 30 min and up to 2 hours at this temperature. It should come out like this. Then vacuum it at a lower temp, 80f or so and leave it for 30-40 hours. Longer if you are purging several ounces. Sometimes it will budder up or honey comb. \nBasic instructions for a hash/budder. \n\nPLEASE READ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Now about why it turns to honeycomb/budder? I know why but most don't understand. I will try again to explain. It all has to do with the compounds that make it smell good, the flavanoids, and there lower boiling points when compared to the other compounds in the extraction. These compounds are in the hard extract and when the extract is see through these compounds are stable. This means you cant smell then as easily which is why people prefer the smell and flavor of honeycomb/budder. Just like you cant inhale water until its a vapor, steam, you cant inhale these compounds that make bud smell good until they evaporate. So as these compounds, in the extraction, change state to a gas particle, they cloud the extraction and cause it to smell more. In short, the terps and flaves are brought out of a stable form and into a gas bubble, it is then trapped in the hard extraction. This is why it turns to honeycomb with low temps, then budder as the temp rises and the extraction gets soft. Since these compounds want to evaporate at room temp and pressure...................... It has very little to do with water. The slightest water contamination will cause an extraction to pop and sputter when dabbed. It is a rule called"the boiling points of compounds in solution" It states that the compounds with lower boiling points will boil off first and up the list of compounds in the solution by order of boiling point. Water has a higher boiling point than terpens and flaves. \nIn short it gets cloudy and opaque due to a state change in the lower boiling point compounds that get trapped in the hard extract. \nPurge times and temps: Water bath: 120f-130f until reaction stops. \nVacuum Oven: The higher the temp the more buddery it will be. So hash/honeycomb will happen at around 100f and up to 120f for budder. Leave it vacuumed at 29inhg until desired consistency is reached. Can take 24+ hours. \nIt should look like this when finished. \nThis is what honeycomb looks like and if your starting material is capable it is made at temps below 100f up to 120f depending on the material and under full vacuum until the desired finish is reached. I have had blue dream finish and pass a test after a 45 min purge and had OGs take three days to finish and pass a test. When in doubt purge it longer. 48 hours is usually enough to pass a test depending on strain. However once the desired finish is reached you need to drop the temp by 10 or 15 degrees to avoid it turning into a softer finish. \nBasic instructions for honey: \nPurge times and temps: Water bath: 100f-150f until reaction stops. The temp does not really matter as long as it is not to hot. \nOven: 160f-180f until no reaction. This can take 24-48 hours. \nVacuum oven: Vacuum at -29inhg and 160f until no reaction. Must be stable at room temp meaning no new bubbles form after it sits for days. \nIt looks like this if you use good material and do it right. \nHow to purge BHO without a vacuum setup. \nEdit not recommended. Just use heat and a long long long time. But if you want to try anyway..... Simply put a small amount of Everclear in your dish prior to blasting, just enough to coat the bottom of the dish you are using for small runs and more if you are making ounces. This allows the BHO to remain liquid and for the butane to more easily escape without getting trapped. Just make sure you extend your purge times a significant amount to allow the alcohol to evaporate all the way off. The temps you use to purge can be about 20f higher than the vacuum method to achieve the same finishes. \nBHO blasted into Evrclear \n\nStoring BHO long term. \nSince TCH and the other compounds we want break down when exposed to oxygen you need to have a finish that is as free of gas bubbles as possible. Only the cold wax/erl and honeys seem to keep for extended times. So for storage the rules is the clearer the better. In that regard I feel that honey is the best to store long term as it is the most concentrated and purged of the lot, but a properly made shatter or wax will also keep. So bubbles is bad for storage bubbles=budder if left for a long time. Edit: I have had honeycomb last two years in a cool dark dry place. It was more red and was heavier feeling but still good. \nStay dabbed my friends.
nice guide! Your oil looks killer, I wish I could have a dab of that....so many people smoking unhealthy oil nowadays, hopefully they learn from you and take it into their own hands
Now once you get to this point you will let it cool. Sometimes depending on the temp you had to use to get it clear, it may be the consistancy of honey, if you can manage to do this at a lower temp you will get perfect shatter. Happy extracting! Stay dabbed my friends! Edit: The log from the two dishes above. Chem Dog Extraction -Relative humidity: 45%-55% -Dehydration temperature: 115-120 -Dehydration time: 3 hours -Purge temps Water bath during extraction: 120-130 extracting two cans through each tube, and a third in a separate dish. Oven/vaccum oven: 140 for 2 hours then 180 for 5 min to get the water out and to get it clear. Then 140 for 10 hours prior to vaccuming. Vaccum temp: 140-150 -Amount of starting product: estimated at 2-3 pounds. -Final yield: 192 grams. 6.7 ounces. -Notes In this run I kept the purge temp at 120-130 and increased the vaccum up to -26 inhg over an eight hour period. This resulted in a grainy texture that was not transparent. I heated it to 180-190 for about 5 minutes them drooped the temperature to 150 for 8 more hours at -5 inhg. After there was almost no reaction at this temperature and pressure I increased the vaccum every 20 minutes, checking for boil over each increase, until i got to -29 inhg with no reaction. The final consistency is like honey due to the higher temps i used to get it clear. It is the only way to be certain there is nothing unwanted in the extraction in many cases.
Thanks. These batches are going off to testing tomorrow. I hope they have at least 80% thc. Edit: a pic of a huge dab of some honey oil made from the cleaners.
[quote name='"stupidstuff"'] Thanks. These batches are going off to testing tomorrow. I hope they have at least 80% thc.[/quote] Wow be sure to let us know the results, I certainly loove a good 80+% concentrate. I really like your guide as I dont have the equip for bho but have the buds available now! I am just thinking of making some type of iso extract tomorrow.
I'm really so sad. I belong in California, or somewhere similar where I can try something like this out. I would kill just for one dab :[
I may just keep a log in the future for all of my BHO extractions in this thread. Others are welcome to do the same as long as you have the basic conditions recorded, dehydration time and temp, purge times and temps. If you dont know even one temperature or time the data will not be very useful. So i did another large extraction today. A friend allowed his AllenWrench to go on the vine for about three weeks to long. When you do this the interior nodes turn brown and he was going to throw two pounds away due to the taste this causes. They were pretty nasty looking so I told him since there was no real rot or mold lets make an extraction attempt. Important note! Something I should point out is that buddering, or clouding, at any stage after the initial extraction, can be caused by a fast drop in temperature. So make sure you dont remove the sample from the heat source for to long when vaccuming or when reheating an oven. AllenWrench Run Log -Relative humidity: 95% -Dehydration temperature: 115 -Dehydration time: 1 hours -Purge temps/times Bath: 110-115 until reaction stops Oven: 120 for 8 hours Vaccum: 110 for 3 hours at -29inhg until no reaction. -Amount at starting point: about 2-3 lbs -Yield: About 6-7 ounces of extract -Final consistency: A touchable meltable solid that almost shatters. -Notes: In this run I kept the temperatures about 20 degrees lower to get a harder less oily texture and get a wax like appearance. I think I could lower the temp another 10 without turning it into a semi shatter wax. This batch turned out darker I suspect due to several reasons. 1 the product was very poorly trimmed. 2 It was nasty. 3 It was dark green. 4 it was only dehydrated for one hour instead of three. 5 It was older more mature buds and they seem to make a darker oil. A shot of two ounces prior to vaccuming. Pics of the final produce A big dab
My cut form the last run. It is 2 ounces total. Even though it was darker than I usually prefer it is clear at 3 inches thick You can test it by seeing how diffused the lights on an LED light is. And this is the honey from the first run after i put it in its storage containers. YUMMMMMMMM A dab of this very honey on a health stone.
Todays run Left over nugs and shake run. -Relative humidity: 80% -Dehydration temperature: 105 -Dehydration time:2.5hours -number of glass tubs per 8x8 dish: 7 -Purge temps/times Bath: 110 until reaction stops. 1 hour Oven: 110-120/8 hours Vaccum: 110-120 until no reaction and consistency desired/ 4 hours. Then left at -29inhg and 100 for 8 more hours to ensure no impurities. -Amount at starting point: about 1.5 lbs -Yield: 160 grams from 7 packed glass tubes. -Final consistency: A grainy touchable wax. -Notes: Today I am trying to drop the temp another 10 degrease or so to get a slightly harder consistency. But the temp crept up to 120 accidently during the purge so it looks like it will still be a simisolid. I am trying to get it as close to shatter without it actually shattering as possible. I am doing a three cans of power 7x butane per glass tube extraction without separating them. Some have wanted to know how tight I pack the tubes. Pretty dam tight. This is after the extraction and prior to the vaccum oven. This is during the oven vaccuming, after 8 hours i took it to -15inhg. At 120 and -15 inhg it sometimes does this. It usually happens when I try the lower temps or let it cool to fast in between the bath and oven. It is known as auto buddering. If it does not correct it self I will have to turn up the temp to get it out. I do not like budder unless it is toutchable as it has a shorter shelf life and is full of water, air, tane....... If I cant see through it I dont really want to smoke it. I may let this batch stay, i have not decided yet. I never do this but....... I decided to keep this run as it is. However it will require much dehydrating prior to it being finished. So it will need to sit out covered with a breathable cover to dry out. Then be vaccumed again. If I raised the temp to about 150-170 it would turn to perfect transparent honey. A test dab after the initial full vac. Again the purpose of this thread is to allow myself and others to see what different processes and temps produce and to keep it in a clear log. If anyone can think of another data point that needs to be added let me know. Thanks. Final run thoughts: As many already know when you keep the temp lower throughout the process the taste and smell are better. This batch has a wonderful flavor and a touchable grain like texture. It does not however stick to a dab tool unless it is hot.
Thanks for the complements. If more people kept the basic conditions recorded it would make figuring out what conditions cause what effects easier to figure out with slightly less argument.
The latest run is almost finished. I plan to leave it under a vac for the night to allow all the impurities to be removed but for the most part it took from 9 am until 10 pm. 13 hours total to get to the smokable point with purge times of 8 hours under regular heat and 3 hours under a vacuum and heat. Final pics tomorrow after it is out of the vacuum chamber and it has dried out. This does not include the prep time of dehydrating and bagging the bud. Stay dabbed my friends! Not feeling really photographic at the moment but here are some shots after the over night vac.
Todays run Old and new shake, no buds only shake and leaves. Some is over a year old. -Relative humidity: 80% -Dehydration temperature: 115 -Dehydration time:2.5hours -number of glass tubs per 8x8 dish: 6 -Purge temps/times Bath: 120-130 until reaction stops. 1 hour Oven: 120-130/8 hours Vaccum: 120/2 hours -Amount at starting point: about 1.5 lbs -Yield: 90 grams -Final consistency: hard wax. -Notes: In this run I am doing a bunch of leaves and trim so I expect it to turn out really dark. I dont know what the final consistency will be as this batch is for a friend and it will be up to him. The look after the extraction and prior to the purge. The final produce is a dark, hard, touchable wax. The taste is not so good but it looks great given the age and type of starting product used.
So I did my first real run this weekend, and after reading for almost a week here and seeing all of the different methods, tricks and opinions. I must say one thing first and foremost that I will NEVER do a BHO run without dehydradting your starting material as it relates to the color of your final product. What I did was start with a half pound of "Shake" from a larger quantity. It was mainly small nugs and already pretty much powderized flower. I had a very small tube and so I had to keep doing multiple runs(about 30 in all) as I started I put all of the starting material in the oven to dehydrate at about 30 or so. I started doing the runs and I did about 5-7 tubes, I would say close to an ounce, per dish to compare color as the starting material dehydrated. All I can say is that as it continued to dry it just kept getting clearer and clearer. On the last dish it looked like the best oil I have ever seen. The potency is amazing and the taste is outta this world. IMO there is NO reason to skip this step, it took an extra 3 hours to dehydrate. Everyone has an oven, and if you want to get a dehydrator I would see it as a plus. I did not have a camera and have already sent it off to where it needed to go. I will be doing another run soon and will post pics. ALWAYS DEHYDRATE!!!
I will start dehydrating now. With the results you guys are posting, it only makes sense to do that.. I do a run a day., only 2 oz batches so my purge is not as extensive as yours stupid stuff. But I feel like im pull in water when I extract because it is a bunch of shake and leaves.
Dehydration is the most overlooked step by new BHO makers and it is so easy with a cookie sheet and an oven on the warm setting. Color is also determined by the material used as well. So lighter stuff will make lighter extract. I have been told by other extraction makers that purple buds can be hard if not impossible to get a light colored extraction on but I have not tried an extraction on truly purple bud before so I cant confirm this. Also think of the way the trics change color as the bud ripens. The maturity of the bud will also, I suspect, play a part in final color. I have also read that the remaining sugar content will also effect the final color and consistency as will the amount of plant wax you get in you extraction.