I just got my hanna combo and am now starting to check ppm's which is a must id have to say..especially for coco! But maybe to help myself and some of the newbies, can everyone post their PPM's either weekly or sum it up by the increase in increments. Especially for your flowering stages. Just post your ppm's of nutrients your adding.So if your using tap water..subtract the taps ppms minus the total ppm's of the solution. thanks in advance!
Why not use EC? As it is much more accurate than PPM's in measuring the amount of nutrients present in your solution, and much easier!
seedlings usually get anywhere from 43ppm (what my RO comes out @) up to around 200ppm, depending of course on how far along the seedlings are. in veg i usually run anywhere from 400-700ppm (.5 scale) flower i run anywhere from 900-1100ppm max (.5 scale) here is a little chart for all of you that are anal about your EC/PPM conversions. either way you cut it, ec or ppm, its still going to get you what your looking for.........
I know quite a few seasoned growers who would argue the inaccuracy of PPM to EC ect. ect. But yes, regardless as long as you measure correctly you should be fine! and for what I go by, I use Coco/perlite 50/50 mix... Seedling .2-.5 EC (50-200ppm) max Veg 1.1-1.7 (600-1000ppm) EC max PreFlower 1.2-1.5 (650-800ppm) EC after first flowers show and crown starts to appear -Flush w/compost solution and Liquid Karma EC .8-1.0 (350-550ppm) and dry COMPLETELY Flower 1.5-1.8 (800-1200ppm) EC as high as 2.0 after Flush and Dry PreHarvest Flush with pure R/O and ClearMax or AN Final Flush EC approx .1 (50-150ppm)-(pure R/O with sugars)
ive made so many frickin gallons of mix i dont check ppm or ph anymore. i quit checkin single gallons a long long time ago, and after i started dumpin nutes w/supps in a 14gal res and hittin within 50 ppm and 0.1 ph every time, well i kinda figured it was just a waste of time and quit ...
**Disclaimer** Genetic variation, even within the same phenotype, and environmental discrepancy between grow rooms will always require slightly different ratios at an unpredictable final concentration. These numbers are approximate and are subject to change. Understanding nutrition is something I have worked very hard on. Although I have not spent enough time to make these numbers concrete I do have a pretty fair approximation of levels that will work for most cannabis plants in coco, or organic coco mixes. There is uncertainty in these numbers if applied to pure soil, DWC/MPB, Aeroponics, NFT, Drip, or E&F models. It is also notable that these values are for a temperature controlled environment without CO2 enrichment. Calculations are approximate minimums from no particular nutrient line. Measurements are given in uS/cm which would be 2x the ppm in a 0.5 conversion. I alternate full strength (as shown) with half strength feedings and I watch my EC of the runoff very closely. 30% runoff is a minimum in my garden. Seedling Week 1: Seedling has broken ground Calculated: 40-10-20 40/10 Tested:400 to 600 uS/cm Seedling Week 2: Seedling has established true leaf sets. Calculated: 40-10-20 40/10 Tested: 400 to 600 uS/cm Seedling Week 3: Seedling is prepared for transplanting to 2L container Calculated: 60-12-25 60/20 Tested: 600 to 800 uS/cm Vegetative Week 1: Plant has several nodes and branches appear Calculated: 100-20-80 100/40 Tested: 800 to 1000uS/cm Vegetative Week 2: Plant has been trained/topped Calculated: 120-22-85 120/40 Tested: 1000 to 1200 uS/cm Vegetative Week 3: Plant is prepared for transplanting to 8L container Calculated: 150-30-100 120/40 Tested:1200 to 1400uS/cm Vegetative Week 4/5/6: Plant increases to desired size and pre-flowers Calculated: 160-30-100 120/40 Tested:1400 to 1800 uS/cm Transition Week 1: Light schedule induces stress and alters hormones Calculated: 100-50-160 80/40 Tested:1100 to 1200 uS/cm Transition Week 2: Flowers begin to form rapidly at top of plant Calculated: 100-60-170 80/60 Tested: 1200 to 1300 uS/cm Flower Set Week 1: Plant is firmly flowering Calculated: 100-60-180 80/60 Tested: 1300 to 1400 uS/cm Flower Set Week 2: Resins begin to develop at an increased rate Calculated: 80-60-200 80/60 Tested: 1400 to 1500 uS/cm Flowering Week 1: More flowers appear Calculated: 80-80-220 60/60 Tested: 1500 to 1600 uS/cm Flowering Week 2: More flowers appear Calculated: 60-85-220 60/60 Tested: 1600 to 1700 uS/cm Flowering Week 3/4: Period of extreme flower production Calculated: 60-90-220 50/60 Tested: 1700 to 1900 uS/cm Swelling Week 1/2: Flowers become much larger in size Calculated: 40-60-200 40/60 Tested: 1600 to 1000 uS/cm Ripening Week 1/2: Vegetative growth slows and trichomes mature Calculated: 0-20-80 0/20 until 0-0-0 0/0 Tested: 600 to 0 uS/cm
Respect bro, i have tried numerous times to +rep you for the knowledge you offer here!'' Got a question though and hope its not irrelevant to the subject posted here. From what i saw, you give minimal amounts of nutrients right from the beginning. 1 seedling of mine has a lime green color with only one leaf set at day 8 and i wonder whether i should start giving it a tiny amount of nutes or not? Until now i had been giving it only water.
As you can see from my feeding schedule I would have been feeding that plant. So... yes. Feed it if it looks hungry but I would use my runoff EC to determine if this was truly the issue.
Look, from my EC readings, the tap water sits at 0.3-0.4 EC, this is what i give them for now. Runoff came at 0.4 EC the last time i watered. I am afraid i would burn them if i used nutes at these seedlings. Should i proceed like that, feed them a bit? I suppose i would have a higher EC than what you suggest because you are using RO water and i am not.
thats the prob wit tap.it starts with a decent ppm especially around a city.but you need to have nutes in the water especially with coco bc theres not enough for the plant.I would feed them lightly just try not to go to insane with the ppm since your already at a number with the tap. My hanna only has the 3 readings..ppm/ph/and u/s number thats usually twice the ppm reading.It doesnt have a EC number reading like 1.2 or w/e but it says EC on the front case of the pen
SCMC are you feeding the last two weeks of flower? Or are those numbers in your last 2 weeks the ppm numbers coming out after watering it with r/o water? The h&g chart says if you use drip clean since day one you only need to do a 3 or 4 day preharvast flush instead of the 2 weeks..Just wondering what you do.
Please see: http://forum.grasscity.com/coco-coir/1022215-final-flush-whats-ur-method.html#post14209862 I don't believe in drip clean, or anything H&G claims for that matter.
I have the same pen, the weird number you say shows up as u/s is actually your EC reading. I have the same hanna 3 mode meter. It gives you PH w/temps, PPM, and EC(u/s). The u/s shows up in whole numbers so if it reads 600 your EC is ,6. If it reads 1200 then it's an EC of 1,2. Read the directions that came with your pen to ensure your conversion rate is .5 and that your PH and PPM are calibrated
Oh ok cool.Yea i read through the directions numerous times but didnt see where it said an example of the number shown converted to the ec number bc the number shown is always like twice the ppm.All i really saw in the directions was how to change the coeficient or some crap.i dunno. I just calibrated a few days ago using the 2 point ph calibration and the ec calibration so the pen is good to go.
Ah that is right, I forgot that for some reason Hanna does not put in their directions on how to change your conversion rate, and or calibrate the PPM properly, bc I know when I got my meter it was set at .7 conversion not .5 so when I tried to calibrate my PPM with my solution of 1500ppm my pen would have a different number because my conversion was wrong. Just giving you a heads up because I know that if it's set wrong then your EC/PPM shown is wrong and that will give you the wrong idea about what you have been feeding your plants
damn you got me worried now lol.well how can i tell from a test if im at the right conversion rate or not. the only solutions i have is a 4.01 and 7.01 ph buffer solution and a bottle of HI 7031 1413 uS/cm solution. when i did the calibration this week everything seemed to go fine. And i just looked at the directions and it does say where you can change the ec/tds conversion factor and temp coeficient but it has .50 as the current converision factor.So I think im good.
[quote name='"AnHonestUpset"']Why not use EC? As it is much more accurate than PPM's in measuring the amount of nutrients present in your solution, and much easier! [/quote] I was wondering if you could explain why EC is better than PPM. I use cocoa w perilite and I usually test in PPM between 1000 and 1200 depending on the stage in the plants life. I thought I read that EC measures electric conductivity which in turn tells how many salts/minerals are in the water. Am I thinking of this correctly? Measuring in PPM has served me well but I'm always looking for improvements so if EC is the way to go then I'm all for it. Thanks
Hey dont I know you? Arent you the Jersey guy? I finally conquered Heat, light, water, nutes, CO2 (to my satisfaction) and bought a Combo pen- HM Digital-COM 100. Have been trying to figure it all out for weeks. Finally figured out EC/ppm/TDS just started to use it. Signed up here. Will try