Hello, I've been following many threads on organic cultivation and have even ordered some #14 comphrey and started some nettle tea. If you could help me out it would be much appreciated; A few days (less than 4) ago I received some clones from a stable mother from a friend. We cut at an angle and dipped in some rooting gel he had. I kept them in bottled water with a little superthrive, saw the leaves curling, so I placed them in balanced bottled water. Last night I dipped them in some compound he baggied for me, and placed them in the rockwool with a humidity chamber (that wasn't sealed so I don't think it worked as intended). The mistake was: this morning I sprayed them with some nettle water, thinking it would be a good nitrogen supplement for early (or something! -maybe I wasn't thinking most clearly). Shortly thereafter, they began to look very dark green, and overall weaker, kind of wilty. So my gf aptly suggested that I should have checked the ph of the water with nettle i sprayed--to find that the pH and alkalinity ppm were high ( I used pool testing strips). So I added a couple lemon drops to some fresh non-nettle water to lower the pH. They haven't been in a humidity chamber all day until about an hour ago. They wilted to the point where the leaves are touching the soil the rockwool is resting in (the soil is FFOF - purchased before I looked deeper into GC), so I snipped the larger lower fan leaves in an attempt to alleviate some burden and hopefully get their turgor pressure back up. They have been in the chamber with an air pump w/ airstone to humidify and a 23w cfl. My question is: are they permanently damaged or can they still be revived and live on to lead a full and productive life? (lol) Please, any help, links to a discussion or thread, anything would help. Thank you!
IDK, maybe they'll live, maybe not. I have my doubts. Generally though, it's best to wait till they actually have roots before doing supplements or whatever good ideas you may have. FFOF is definately way too hot for unrooted clones. Call it a learning experience. Wet
I have killed many plants trying to get the hang. Stunting plants when they're young will lead to problems down the line - lower yield, hemaphroditism. Fact is if you want to succeed you're going to need more than a few clones. Next time you spray any thing use one plant as a test subject first.
Yeea, luckily my friend is more than willing to start some more for me, but I would like to see my babies pull through. They are bent over but their leaves are aiming towards the light still -is that a good indication that they are still fighting to live? If their leaves are oriented toward the light? And if they live, can they still be just as healthy as any other? edit for hope: if they spring back in a couple days is the damage done permanent? They were not severely wilted just very droopy. oh and btw the seedlings seemed to love it... lol
Who knows? Don't chunk them and if they come back they should be fine. They're pretty resilient. But ..... Snag some more from your buddy. LOL Wet
that is lucky you have a friend who is granting your plants with great benevolence. I think it's recomended to avoid misting clones if you are using a humidity dome, which is the best way to get it done. Humidity and temperature are huge factors with cloning success. I doubt botanical teas will help much... however pre-soaking clones or the soil with aloe or willow extract may help the rooting process
update: the babies are on their way back up, and have some cousins, thanks for the advice wetdog, got some nice sativas to add to the mix, probably gonna clone from them too ;J I'm gonna try companion growing with stinging nettle, once i can cut some fresh clones, and get my soil mix down (thinking of inoculating white dutch clover with great white in my starter pots, and planting my seeds/cuttings amongst the clover pots. Any ideas?) I plan on doing a control group of 4 grown with the white dutch clover inoculated organic soil mix alone, and an experimental group of 4 with the white dutch clover inoculated organic soil mix with living stinging nettle in the same pot. But that's later on down the road. hope2toke, what kind of willow can i use and how do i make an extract? Thank you for all your help
Aloe Vera contains salicylic acid - a rooting hormone/compound found in willows, and yes, most of all of the rooting gels and powders found on the market for rooting cuttings today. I use Aloe Vera juice mixed with water to keep my cuttings damp and thats all I need. For an organic way of rooting cuttings, this method and product is where its at as far as Im concerned. What Is In Aloe Vera? Making Willow Water / Salicylic Acid and SAR jerry.
Dont forget the honey and kelpmeal! I tried it on a hybrid rose cutting. Didnt work but hybrid roses are very hard to root thats why they graft them. It was also a large 2 foot branch in full sun. LOL. The consistency of the honey/kelp was thicker than any store bought clone gel im sure. Never used the fake stuff but I saw some at a friends once. Thank LD. Wherever he is. VOO
This is the first time i have read about nettle tea on a pot forum..i have used it for years and making some now...YES IT KILLS PM and does lots of other good things...
OK I am sure it does kill PM. About six months ago, LD advised me to use the roots for a fungicide specific application. I am not sure exactly what the reason would be, but I might snoop around the web and see. So, nowhere is fungal effects mentioned. Bacterial is mentioned, which could be close enough. v v v v
NETTLE PLANT SUMMARY Main Preparation Method: infusion or capsules Main Actions (in order): anti-allergic, anti-anaphylactic, anti-inflammatory, decongestant, diuretic Main Uses: for seasonal allergies, rhinitis, and sinusitis for BPH and prostatitis for arthritis, rheumatism and other inflammatory conditions for high blood pressure for hair loss Properties/Actions Documented by Research: analgesic (pain-reliever), anti-allergy, anti-anaphylatic, anti-inflammatory, anticonvulsant, antihistamine, decongestant, diuretic, hypotensive (lowers blood pressure), immunomodulator (selectively modulates overactive immune cells) Other Properties/Actions Documented by Traditional Use: anti-asthmatic, antibacterial, antidiabetic, antihemorrhagic (reduces bleeding), anti-rheumatic, astringent, blood cleanser, diaphoretic (promotes sweating), febrifuge (reduces fever), laxative, menstrual stimulant, wound healer Cautions: It may lower blood pressure and heart rate. Avoid chronic use due to its diuretic effects. Traditional Preparation: Both the root and the leaves are traditionally prepared as infusions. Dosages depend on what one is taking it for. In herbal medicine systems, as a healthy prevention to prostate difficulties or to maintain prostate health, one-half cup of a root infusion 2-3 times weekly is recommended (2-3 ml of a root tincture or 2-3 g of powdered root in capsules or tablets can be substituted if desired). The natural remedy for BPH is one-half cup of a root infusion 2-3 times daily for 30-90 days. (2-3 ml of a root tincture or 2-3 g in capsules or tablets 2-3 times daily can be substituted if desired.) For allergies, inflammation, and hypertension: one cup of a leaf infusion is taken twice daily in traditional medicine systems. This also can be substituted by taking 3-4 g of leaf tablets/capsules twice daily. Contraindications: Nettle has been documented in animal studies to lower blood pressure and heart rate. Those with heart conditions should seek the advice and supervision of a health practitioner to determine if nettle is suitable for their condition and to monitor its effects. Nettle has been documented to have diuretic effects. Chronic use of this plant may be contraindicated in various medical conditions where diuretics are not advised. Chronic long-term use of any diuretic can cause electrolyte and mineral imbalances. Consult your doctor if you choose to use this plant chronically for longer than 30 days concerning possible side effects of long term diuretic use. Drug Interactions: May potentiate heart medications. May potentiate diuretic drugs. from rain-tree.com
from the same website: Antibacterial \t A substance that kills or inhibits bacteria. A. (Internal) Picao preto, mullaca, anamu, Brazilian peppertree, fedegoso (External) Copaiba, sangre de grado, mulateiro, anamu, andiroba B. Abuta, anamu, andiroba, annatto, avenca, balsam, bitter melon, Brazilian peppertree, cashew, catuaba, chanca piedra, clavillia, copaiba, embauba, erva tostão, fedegoso, graviola, guacatonga, guaco, guaraná, guava, jatoba, juazeiro, kalanchoe, macela, mulateiro, mullaca, mulungu, mutamba, pau d’arco, picao preto, sangre de grado, sarsaparilla, scarlet bush, simarouba, stevia, vassourinha C. Aveloz, cipó cabeludo, nettle, quinine Antifungal \t An agent that kills or inhibits the growth of fungi. A. (Internal) Jatoba, pau d’arco, anamu, fedegoso, picao preto (External) Jatoba, copaiba, sangre de grado, mulateiro, pau d’arco B. Abuta, anamu, Brazilian peppertree, clavillia, copaiba, embauba, fedegoso, graviola, guacatonga, guava, iporuru, jatoba, kalanchoe, mulateiro, mutamba, pau d’arco, picao preto, sangre de grado, sarsaparilla, scarlet bush, stevia, vassourinha C. Balsam, cashew, quinine
besides that, I just thought I'd mention to go easy with the fungicidal application. I recently stunted a Jacks cleaner pretty badly with a home made fungicide, and had to get rid of it. disappointing. the nettle tea will also inhibit mycorrhizal fungi, I am sure..
my basic rule is, as long as the plants not dying, it will root some day. i totally fucked up 2 of my clones and then fixed them, which i got a thread from in Rollitup. growing weed isnt always as easy as it seems, sometimes its the smallest thing that turns out to be the biggest mistake, like using matches to keep away fruit flies and ending up with sulfurid soil lol peace