You to should use azomite!

I realize this is a old post but, can you use azomite in hydroponics? Everyone I've talked to or watched that uses azomite loves it.

 

LOL, volcanic rocks aren't "organic". The word "organic" means something from a once-living organism.

 

From my understanding organic is anything with carbon.

 

Mmmm, that's an organic compound, not anything "organic".

To further illustrate the distinction, crappy chemical fertilizers can contain carbon compounds. For MJ growers at least, that ain't "organic"...

 

Well until we start making things from materials outside of our universe, with compunds that are not part of the periodic table. They are all organic to me. I'm not jumping on this organic bandwagon. Permaculture is the way to go. But that is just my opinion. Flame one.

 

A knowledgable friend informed me that the aluminium compound that comprises Azomite can block other nutrient absorption in plants. He suggested I not use it. He recognizes that it has many micronutrients, but the aluminum in it makes it not worth it. Anyone have any info on this? Perhaps a good alternative?

Thanks!
B.

 

You can make up your own definition if you want, but that doesn't change the truth. What you're saying doesn't match any definition of "organic."

If every atom on the periodic table were "organic" then the word would have no meaning, or perhaps it would be a synomym for "matter." Which it ain't.

 

Organic: Relating to chemical compounds containing carbon, especially hydrocarbons.

 

A natural substance, free from additives, synthetics or fillers, Azomite is listed by the Organic Materials Review Institute (OMRI) for use in organic farming.

 

So in hydro systems or DTW like Hempy okay?

 

If you are an organic gardener you would more than likely prefer glacial rock dust.

Organic, for edification, means a product that has chemical compounds that aren't altered by man's hands. Typically these are 'meals' that have been dried and packaged to sell. Not chelated or preserved or concentrated.

Azomite contains trace elements of aluminum that can become harmful after years of use. Glacial rock dust does not contain these metals.

 

Thanks bennyweed, I'm going to start using it, I already make bat guano and worm casting tea, so now I'll just add the azomite as top soil

 

You can buy Azomite at Amazon

 

After reading this constant debate of Azomite and its effects, I wanted to include my 2 cents and try to help clear things up from experience with the product.



First off, it is NOT some "wonder cure" for making plants blow up or correct probs. Even in its finest form, it acts similar to dolomite, as it contains similar elements. There is a good ratio of Calcium in both Azomite and Dolomite. Azomite also contains a VERY small percentage of soluble potash, and higher levels (than potash, calcium is highest %) of magnesium, cobalt, chlorine and sodium. Other minerals are much less significant in the mix. The Azomite slightly raises soil ph or water ph if added, but not as much as dolomite lime. You could find a TON of info on azomite.com in their contents where they speak out the actual processes affected. Mainly helps other nutrients to be taken up more efficiently, as humic acid and other enzymes do.


I would NEVER apply azomite to seedlings in germination our freshly progressing past germ. It would surely raise ph too high, and unless adding it to RO water (which is more acidic), it would be too much useless, harmful stuff for the weak pants to handle. It is best to mix in with a good soil recipe, and allow the mix to sit while keeping it moistened with a sprayer weekly. We want to promote microbial growth and activity to break Azomite minerals down into useful materials. After at least a week of allowing this to "activate", I would transplant the pants which I plan to veg next. Normally, I substitute a small factor of the dolomite for my still mixes with azomite, and promote activity planning for transplants. Dolomite is often misused also tho. During this time, you want to mix a fine texture mix through the soil, then water it so the activation can begin before putting a plant into it. Usually, I will use a plastic cup w a drainage hole to take a sample of the mixed soil, dump tap water in, and catch the runoff so it can be measured. Once the proper range is achieved, I know the buffer value is corrected and ph will not be a huge prob later. Contrary to much of what's posted on the internet, dolomite actually works instantly as a BUFFER, when finely ground. The activation only refers to the breakdown and ability of absorption of the comprising elements (Ca and Mg). The buffer must be mixed thru the soil to correctly help, and top feeding does more damage as it ends up creating two very different root zone ph's. Then the bottom gains more acidity, and top buffers too much and becomes highly alkaline. The minerals will cake on top, and it is just not an efficient way to utilize the products.




Beyond that, Azomite is not fast acting either, and it can actually become harmful in flowering if added in a top feed style. It is set up to take advantage of the faster acting potash to promote root growth and overall health in VEG, to set up the use of the other trace elements for better consumption of the higher level nutrients. It will supply calcium in the late stages as it becomes available to the healthier roots, while also having Mg available in the flowering stage to help balance the availability of everything needed. Mixing with a good microbial environment is paramount to this working though. If you kill off the microbial life (with peroxide for instance), Azomite will be less helpful overall.


So my point is, Azomite is simply another additive to consider when getting into mixing your own soils, not as a "use anytime and benefit" product. Mixing with earthworm castings, fruit bat guano (the high P type), potash and something lie Hydroguard Will ensure you gain the most of additives like Azomite. It may be relatively cheap (It's not 40lb bags for 4$@ Lowe's like Dolomite) but it must be utilized early when transplanting from the first true leaves or to at least have 6 weeks of veg ahead to take advantage of it. Otherwise it will give your plants spots and lockout K from too much Ca and other unusable materials (unless broken down by microbial life). Use it wisely, and it works great in combination with other organic additives to promote pretty explosive root growth and health as it will help process other, more important nutes, more efficiently. In flowering though... you will get yellowing and disappointment as none of it can truly be used in that short a time.


Btw, soils like Happy Frog already contain beneficial organisms and humid acids, so Azomite is a great compliment to FF HF. Use in place of some of the Dolomite as to avoid overdoing alkalinity. And be sure to let it set a couple days at least, and test a sample to ensure ph is in the correct area. If you use too much, add more soil to file the ratio.


It's an old post, but hopefully it will help others who find this page. Trust me, you don't want to lose a garden to applying additives you do not truly understand. Plants don't need crazy things to thrive.. we just give them the ability to add to the benefits of maximizing our fruits of the labor we expend.

 

Hey waktoo,
If you first read your citation, it is what is commonly known as a typical analysis. It is also referring to the ORE. Not the processed stuff you buy and add to your plants. You may have a majority of those elements in an Azomite sample, but ALL of them are not found in any one type. Depending on the volcanism and geo structure in that region it was mined, the ORE contains varying levels of a grab bag of the listed elements. Granted, there are nearly 70 in azomite, they are typically very low and also get removed in some cases prevent unwanted chemical reactions in soil or other environments. I will attach a pic, but you can check on Amazon, all of the offered types have varying levels of trace elements, but it is major about 5-10 in abundance to be useful. You would be far too much of the substance to benefit from the minute traces of some elements. It is helpful, but is necessary to use in a certain window of time only. Just like 90% of other additives for soil mixes.
As for the similarities, they both contain calcium and magnesium in the highest levels overall. Although some variance is in play, the calcium is what raises ph. This is a well know fact. As azomite contains less than dolomite, it's effects on ph are far less, but still significant. Try top feeding a couple tablespoons on a 3 gal pot at the start of flower... it will cake up and form a crust of high alkalinity, while the lower soil is different in ph, causing multiple symptoms at once. Yes azomite contains extra minerals and elements (based on where it was formed/mined), but dolomite does as well, under mass spectrometry or gas chromatography as your ore chart shows for azomite. MS/GC breaks ALL the elements down within a sample, showing everything comprising the sample too. Meaning, much of that listed is chemical forms unavailable to plants or through microbial breakdown. They are more like binders or surfactants found in the ore. Ore is very different than purified/processed mineral products though. You cannot take the ore and crush it, then add directly to the soil. Its like any other ore mining processes out there.. broken and processed into different parts, sold for different applications.
Either way, they are very similar, and if you tried adding the full amount of dolomite AND azomite to a soil mix, you will make the soil too alkaline and have problems until some is absorbed. Too much calcium locks potassium out, n the domino effect continues.
I'm not knocking azomite, I'm just giving warning that it does it's optimal effects in a very specific period, and should not be applied to fresh sprouts as suggested early in the posts. You don't want to give sprouts anything but water. Even organic nutrients could damage their fragile state. And spending that kind of money on seeds is not something to experiment with. You won't gain any defects growth by having a sprout come faster, besides better genetics making it grow faster.
Idk why so many ppl on here do not read the fine details. Its nice that So many are so passionate about what they read, but knowing how the processes and mechanisms work through actual experience and many years of formal education is much more accurate than just reading and repeating stats or word of mouth. Stats can be very tricky, as the wording can make completely different things seem similar. I understand it's from azomite .com, but it clearly states it's the analysis (basic averages, at that) of the rocks taken from the Earth, not the product sold as garden supplements. As many combos can become toxic, and its more profitable to separate materials and sell then as different products (rather than then keeping the products together, with a lower % of concentration per element in ore). Read up on the geology end of it, and you'll see where the byproducts go plus how azomite (as any rocks) vary by location. Not to mention age (could be thousands or millions of years difference depending on the location of mining).
If you have any other questions I'd be happy to provide answers and some links that could be helpful (not forums, but school tests or federally controlled testing).


(*Btw, the pic included is the guaranteed analysis, to give you an empirically confirmed lab analysis of the product, not the ore*)

 

Years later you still swear by it?

 

I prefer azomite over lime

Purple Auto Grow Shared Bed Organic
No till 15 gallon pot auto grow
24x24x36 auto grow tent
6 autoflowering and 3 regular seed