Yellowing new growth/drooping

Discussion in 'Sick Plants and Problems' started by FireMonkey, Sep 15, 2007.

  1. 1. hydro, soilless or Soil & brand name of soil:: Miracle Grow Organic Choice
    2. PH of reservoir solution:: I'm using distilled water so, it should be good
    3. PH soil runoff:: n/a
    4. PH of water:: n/a
    5. Age of plants:: 15 days since planting after germination
    6. What Fertilizer, dosages, and frequency:: None
    7. lites, wattage & proximity to plants:: Two long 40 watt fluorescent tubes, and 4 25 watt CFL's
    8. Light cycle. 24/0,, 18/6,, 12/12:: 24/0
    9. In light cycle how long:: Since i planted them
    10. Room temps or reservoir temps:: n/a

    Plant 1
    This one is the worst.
    [​IMG]

    Plant 2
    This ones growing good.
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    Plant 3
    This is the other one growing good, this one seems a lot more bushier
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    Plant 4
    This is the other one doing not so good
    [​IMG]
     
  2. its your soil

    MG soils have pre-added ferts that are too strong for seedlings, although organic ferts but still too much nitrogen

    get new soil, or fill a pot with your MG soil and flush the ferts out of it , dry it asap and transplant the seedlings into this soil thats not quite so hot

    also cut back on the watering, use a spray bottle to mist the base of the seedlings, they dont need much at this point

    you also need to get a handel on your PH, everything that goes in your pots needs to be PH corrected to the optimum zone of 6.5 - 6.8 PH
    watch the streaming PH, soil runoff tests & flushing video on my site(see link below)
     
  3. Alright, thanks for the help!

    How exactly should i transplant these?

    Im gonna go get a PH test kit and get the water to a good point. What should i get to be able to adjust the PH?
     
  4. PH Down ....any brand is fine , but phosphoric acid type is best, as our plants use this phosphorus throught its life cycles

    PH Up...again any brand , but potassium based products are best for the same reasons

    dont be bashful, run tap water over the root ball to remove ALL that soil, then transplant, water with a few squirts of the spray bottle, and leave them alone for a week
     
  5. What soil should i get, instead?
     
  6. there is the issue most all soils are now pre- ferted,

    flush what you have before use, or I use soil from outdoors, & bake it @ 350F for an hour to kill all pathogens , then switch to better soil in 3 weeks when its time to transplant
     
  7. Thanks for the help, Ganja Guerrilla. I got a PH test kit, that included the PH down & up from my local grocery store (PH down is sodium biphosphate, PH up is sodium bicarbonate). I used a bunch of hose water and ph corrected it, and flushed out 3 big pots, and 2 small party cups for the smallest one and for plant 1 and for plant 5, which i have transplanted already.

    The soil has been drying since last night, i think i may transplant them sometime today, they are progressively getting worse, so the sooner the better, i just dont want to put them in very wet soil.
     
  8. I suggest forget soil altogether use a mix of one third vermiculite and two thirds perlite.water/feed once a day with gh flora series nutes using a lucas like formula.(thats one part micro to two parts bloom.forget the grow not needed. start out at about 300 ppm and work the nutes up from there.look at icmag for hempy buckets.IMHO its the best system for someone just learning.I also suggest keeping the ph a touch on the high side5.9-6.1 as it will drop throughout the day as water is used and the solution concentrates.anyhow good luck.
     

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