Light: 400hps temp: 80 day 64 night ph: 6.5 runoff soil: FF ocean forest in 5 gallon nutes: FF big bloom and superhume Problem started with bottom leaves and worked it's way up to the top. Now there's pretty much no green leaves left. Watered every 4 -5 days.
how long have them been flowering and how long are they sappost to flower? There is a total N def. but if they are close to being done which they kinda look that way, it's alright. When N is used up chlorophyl stops being produced (funny thing huh). It's good to flush your plant before you cut it down as Chlorophyl is very harsh when it's being burned! So in this case it looks to be there soon! Try adding humic or falvic acid to your flushing process, you can also try blackstrap molasses. These all help to break down the more complex elements in to more readily available ones increasing overall taste and smell! Give it a shot. Oh further more, the purpling is sometimes genetic, when you have no chlorophyl (the green pigment in the leaves) the other pigments will naturally show through (also why colors of leaves change in autumn). However if too much purpling or purpling on petioles and stems you may have a P def. Though I wouldn't count on it from the looks of things. To be sure I'd post more info on what you are using and times and dates. chronic
It has been in 12/12 since 3/2/07. It's bagseed but looks to be indica dominant and has about 10% clear trichromes left and maybe 5% amber. On my other plants that aren't as far into flowering, and starting to show the same problems, what kind of fertlizer should I use besides the FF Big bloom to give them more N?
I think anything you add will affect your taste now < 46 days flowering? definately. Maybe make a compost tea, 1 tbl sp blood meal/gal water and 1 tbl sp off Blackstrap Molasses/gal to go with it. You can also add the epsom salt too, probably 1 tsp per gal with that though. You can use fish emulsion or alfalfa meal or soybean meal or whatever meal as long as it has a decent N value. The molasses helps feed the bacteria - it provides many needed sugars to them as well making them grow rampant providing many nutrients to your plant. I would give it a shot if you want to keep it alive any longer otherwise, I'd just use the molasses until she is done. The molasses improves taste like no other! Have you heard of Carboloader or any other carb boosters? well that is the equivilent but instead of 28$ a liter it's 5$ for a gallon at a farm store (look for food addatives for animal feed). Chronic
How much molasses do I use per gallon of water? And should I use it in the rest of the waterings or just once? I have been trying to give my other plant, that's 4 weeks into flower, some fish emulsion but it hasn't seem to help the yellowing much. Once they dry out again I'm going to flush them
Molasses is generally added every other watering in flower at a rate of 1 tsp/gal. During the last 2 week normally you use more... this chelates a lot of the other nutrients making them more available and at the same time using up the nutrients it has left, quicker, so you wont get a planty type taste on harvest. In this case a lot of nutrients have already been used and the plant is draining of nutes anyway. In my opinion I'd use it with your normal watering, 2x a week until it is cut down. If you want to avoid a N short at the end of flowering you need to occassionally feed it with a N fertilizer during early flowering. You will be able to tell when you are short of N by the bottom leaves starting to turn yellow and die down the center of the leaves (chlorosis symptoms). I can't tell for sure but it looks like the only fan leaves you have are on the actual flowering area, this IS what it is sappost to look like around harvest only you wanted another week or so before this point. This is why it's so hard to fix at this point in flower. If you fert, it will be in your leaves but they wont show signs of getting better until you dump a bit of N in there... by that point it will probably change the taste and how harsh it is. In my opinion smoother early smoke is better than mature harsh smoke.
I wouldnt give it any ferts at this point, mollasses is fine, I too have used it several times testing, I cant say I found any appreciable benifits in my testing, but it wont hurt either
Wow, so the advanced search function really unlocks some gems. I've been struggling with the very same problems on a plant and have been posting in the Sick Plants section and, though I was getting some sage advice, it didn't really click until I read this thread. So basically, this is a bump, a bump of a hella old thread, because I've been seeing some other GC'ers post very similar problems as of late here. Basically the yellowing some of us are facing is a natural part of the flowering process, the trick is using the proper nute schedule early on in the plant, so as to correctly time this natural process. For, though it happens in all plants, the timing of this is dependent on how you have nuted and cared for the plant from the start of flowering and before. Trying to fix it too late, instead of taking care of it earlier on, will degrade the final taste and produce a much harsher smoke. Damn, I haven't even harvested this crop yet, (my first) and I am already salivating planning how the next one will be much better. Hope this helps others as much as it has me.
It's fairly common to see nitrogen deficiency (yellow or purpling) when in flowering stages. Most of the nutes are stolen from the leaves to make the bud.
i too have this going on right now. I have 4 durban poisiond and only 3 of the 4 are showing. This helped.